leolito

Sorry to get back on this late. All is fine, I got no problem following and if I fall behind will ask again. What you have described (very well) is perfect for the work of the oil as a lubricant in both cold and warm/semi-hot normal condition, and in readiness for engine-start (both cold and hot start, especially cold). I am sure compared to 10Wxx/15Wxx/20Wxx oils a 0Wxx is terms ahead. Absolutely no doubt about pumping losses and efficiency, which I am sure is the leading reason behind manufacturer's decisions. This is clear, as it is that a thin oil will be all the way through the operating temperature range - but but ... what I have trouble understanding is how the 'thinner' oil is able to perform equally well in the area of 'cooling' the engine metal, which is its other role, once temps start really to go high and the engine gets working hard. We are talking high RPMs, high load (say highway, maybe loaded or towing), adverse factors (add summer heat, A/C on). Historically, even good multi-grade oils would tend to degrade when forced to work at a higher temp, and because of this (some) manufacturers and/or aftermarket specialists have proposed the use of multi-grade oils with wide operating range (say 10W60). So while I do agree with the concern on cold starts and viscosity on cold/mid-temp operation, I am still finding weak explanations dealing with how these wonderful new lubricants perform in the condition that to me matters most, which is exactly the one mentioned above: high effort, high load, sustained performance, in adverse conditions. I might be stupid, but setting aside ALL the manufacturer's reasons and data (after all, once engine is out of warranty he will not give a thought about it), I do not grasp in what a 0W20 (or lower) is better than a hi-performance 0W40, 5W50 or 10W60 (or 5W60) multi-grade oil. Not talking long-life oils either, just some philosophy on manufacturer's decisions. The cars surely work anyway ...

Yes, sorry, I meant the DSG should go to "Sport", not the driver profile. So many settings! 🤪 And yes I confirm I have tried this more times, flicking the lever from Left to Right goes into "Manual" mode, which after you can operate with the "+/-" or with the paddles. When flicking the lever back to Left, returns to "Drive". This, irrespective of the driver profile loaded (i.e. Eco, Comfort, Normal). Now I read you better and perhaps I should try to "pull" the lever towards the rear, not the side, and see if that makes it go in "S". Will try!

I did not try the adaptation yet, I am unable to find free time to play, every time I need to use the car I have some unavoidable task and cannot risk something going "wrong" 😝 I saw there is a 'Torque Steering assist' setting or something similar, what is it? In any case I tried in a ~300km trip I had yesterday to play with the settings, and I concluded that: - in 'Sport' the throttle response in much better, but the ride becomes very choppy and harsh - will try to set up 'Individual' mode with a mix, if possible (say suspension on comfort, DSG on sport, etc. and see) - the DSG response in 'comfort' or 'eco' is very laid back, in Sport more active - I tried to move the lever from D to S but it goes in "Manual", not "Sport". Am I missing something? In any case I see me going to the pedal box if playing with the above settings does not give a meaningful result.

Thanks! But too much bling ... I'll stick to the black ones 😁

You are the man! 😀 The unsettling body movement given by the original suspension setting on uneven roads is a real disappointment on the handling. Thanks for making the effort (physical and economical!) to achieve better solutions!

Interesting comparison! 😉

I've read this before, but if not going into technical details I am having trouble understanding this. Now obviously a lower 'W' viscosity does what you say when on cold start (say comparing a 0W/5W versus 10W/15W), but I still cannot imagine how a '20' or '30' grade can resist higher operating temps (say +110C) better than a '50' or '60' grade oil, with whatever additives. I've looked for clear and univocal literature on this, but I haven't found any yet. In the past I have used mid-level performance cars (~330/360hp) and always used oils in the 10W60 range. People with racier pedigrees than me stand by this with years and years and fairly faultless racing and hi-speed performance. While facts seem to indicate so, I still cannot believe easily that all of a sudden of this is gone in the past, a a 0W20 can magically perform equally, or better ...

That people are that gullable, is a fact, yes. But I believe also the issue is that a claim has to be substantiated by fact. We live by statements made by ourselves to others, and others to ourselves, that have to be validated by what we do. In my work, when I provide a deliverable to a customer, I am using my skill, experience and capability to make sure it is as correct and valid as it can be, and therefore I can stand reliably behind it. At the same time, my customer knows he can rely on such results to do whatever he does with them, knowing he can always get back to me on the same contents I provide and work forward. Likewise, you choose a product or service by analysis and comparison of its values and features, and based on that make your choice. Yes, there are also people who do not do that, and there are also people who make (very) poor choices, but let's leave them out of the topic at the moment. That fact is that whether is a kg of rice, or is a car, or the speed rating of an Internet service, as a savvy consumer/customer you expect that the manufacturer or supplier is able to comply with ... what was that saying you guys got in the UK? Does what it says in the can? In the tin? Been a long time .... The funny - and worrying - thing about your last paragraph is that manufacturer DO test in most conditions (perhaps less than in earlier times, where build quality and reputation was a high prized effort) but once cars are produced and sold do NOT replicate as well ... and we do not talk only MPG here, but going back to see awful blunders of many manufacturers, makes you wonder what the heck "did they test" at all ... 😶

I think I will get the grey ones and paint them over 😝 (0.86eur vs 3.19 for the black ones, unit price!)

aaah ... will look then, I did not flip through the screens. Another thing I forgot ... must be 17,362 posts mentioning changing the pedal feedback/response, but I did not find where to do it ... 😊 Is it in Engine control module?

I finally got my VCDS and wanted to play, but as on clue I got a ton of work and then zero time to play ... I've tried very quickly some of the adaptations but I think I got some security lockout on the comfort module, will get back to that when I have time. I did got the 'refuel quantity' thing done, and now I see it shows in the vehicle settings with a 'tick'. Now, this must sound stupid, but how do I see it? 🤪 I mean, I've refueled twice already and nothing shows when I start up the car again ... not that I am dying, but I am curious ...

@Bap33 Mine are black, or a very dark grey. Thanks! @Danoid Great find thanks! It is sufficient to know they exist, sooner or later will find a way to get some. One photo shows diameter of the locking nut cap, will measure mine to see if it matches. Edit: I found them ... available separately or in a set as indicated above. In case linking to vendors is not acceptable, they are one the skoda-parts site, prices for the black ones are ... 😳

While we are at lettering, I've noticed many come advertised as "XL" or "reinforced" blah blah Weren't these too harsh to ride? I had a set of 'runflats' that came in one Audi, and they were the harshest tires I ever had ...

On that theme you would want timely servicing , maintenance and repairs of the whole and beyond the VWSkoda limited "servicing" and "maintenance" schedules keeping well on top of all clean and lubricate stuff. For the engine that would be timely changes of engine oil and filter using very god quality oil for a sporty car and good quality oil filter, changing the air filter perhaps well in advance of VWSkoda schedules ... On this subject, I am having a struggle with the fact the car is still in warranty and they do not "warrant" that I accelerate the schedule, claiming the use of long term oils with high level additives "warrants" longer scheduled intervals, but I still feel that they will not "warrant" engine degradation over time when the "warranty" expires ... I am thinking if perhaps get OE filters and 'trick' the oil change will trigger some hidden sensor that will advertise the work done ...

Having to go to a place and leave the car outside "unattended", it was a good moment to fit the "safety wheel bolts" 😬 So straightforward does not even need explanation 😝 Anybody knows if a cap is available for those?

Interesting, also here OMV is well regarded, but opinions on LukOil are very divided, for the obvious reasons. Try to continue running differently and see how it goes. I've tried a similar long-distance trip with 95 and 100 but got no meaningful differences neither in MPG, or in performance ...

Using this very useful guide, I also managed to remove my sunglasses from laying around into a suitable place. Nothing relevant about the installation, just make sure you got two sturdy but thin screwdrivers and pull at the same time.... no fear. Price for this item was around 25 euros, that is 10 more than spent by fergard in the same ebay.de place three years ago ... 🙄 One photo in bright sunshine to see, the "beige" difference is not noticeable.

I am going through the effort to adapt to the concept that some modern oils with apparent "decreased" viscosity can perform better than older oils (in older engines!) with a 'higher' viscosity. Strange world we live in ... Which makes me wonder what the heck to start putting now on 🤭

This is what happens when you give "improvised" people the power to define your life. Personally, I think is long gone the time the designer was truly an engineer who knew how to "engineer" a car. Now is most likely just a 'dude' who rides an electric moped, blasts remake songs made with autotune through wireless earbuds, and the only time he has seen a screwdriver is in his grandpa's shed .... I have a friend that has an EV saloon, he bought a Kona for resale with a "minor" hit in the front for which needs a new combo blinker-headlight, and he is still crying at the price they've given him. He said in hindsight he would have not bothered ....

@JR RS that 245 is an upsize from the original, any rubbing? Speedometer is out by too much? My car came with 235/40 which are at the beginning of the end, and I wonder for next season is stick to 19s but increase a bit the sidewall, or most likely to downsize to 18" and perhaps go 245/45.

I do not know how is in your region, but here in mine fuel is very crappy regardless of rating. From people who have run lab analysis, in many case is lower octane fuel "boosted" with additives and not exactly true higher octane fuel. Check with the local community what's their take on the fuel quality you have available there. This said, I agree whole with the boys above, you can run 95 if you cannot do anything else, the engine will not suffer (will adjust timing), but you will not be getting the best out of it. Plus - again, check in your case - the 95 here is not best option for a high- performance engine. Since we do not have 97 or 98 here, I try to mix with 100 whenever I can, compatible with the pocket availability 😊

You'd be amazed 😝 Unfortunately, tires have gone up a bit on price .... Personally I stay away from second hand unless I know their provenance, here we get only the worse crap from the "first world", so you are more likely to end up with square/deformed tires (had this happening twice already), or just old pieces of fossilized rubber. Too risky considering only a small patch holds you to the ground, as mentioned above ....

I am also partial to Uniroyal, I have heard only good things about friends (who know how to turn the wheel, even opposite lock) driven hard in all conditions. I've also noticed the SIII is a very quiet car, so makes sense to consider quieter tires as well. Budget wise, sometimes a better tire - generally more expensive - can save up in the long term you drive with it, and I came to consider that a trade off must be made. It is a tricky affair, and very personal one. After a few choices made more on the "budgetary aspect", next time I will be open to consider more performance than cost.

From my multi-year experience of suffering high temps in the RV8 in my P38 Range Rover (a vehicle known from heating problems), I can suggest that first you run some test with a more precise measurement device, say a scangauge or other equivalent OBD reader when you can get the exact water temp (the dash indicator is never 100% accurate, lest scare away unprepared drivers). In my case, after fighting continuous 107-117 temps, and replacing a bunch of items under influence from "experts" (thermostat two times, expansion tank, expansion cap two times, sensor in the engine, coolant nth times, etc.), I blew the fan ripping apart everything in the engine bay, tearing into the radiator and denting the bonnet outwards 😮 This happened 5km from home luckily, and with 20 liters of water siphoned on the way I managed to get home 😊 That was the drop ... I stopped paying attention to any other expert, I drain the entire system (made simple by the damage), replaced radiator with a new one, all hoses, only quality items, and since then I have never managed to go beyond 87-90 (as per scangauge). At least 50% of the use of the RR is towing a two-axle car trailer as a "part-job" (every time less and I am trying to exit the car trade), so rarely loaded less than 2t (usually I get old Mercs, 4x4s, and the like). Moral of the story: make sure your current system is 100% top notch before attempting upgrades or modifications. Sorry for the long post, but since then I learned never to trust a cooling system unless you know the story behind each part of it ...