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Haldex fluid every 15K km could be overkill. At least, Gen5 has been on the market and on the road since years and I think no-one sticks to 10K mi intervals. Another thing related to Haldex fluid replacement is that working on that coupling/decoupling mechanism, mechanical friction and related heat must take a toll on the fluid itself. I've also noted - this is my first car with ACC/PCC - that brakes are in use much more than normal when the cruise is on, which would explain also tight intervals for the brake fluid, which sees much more work than on cars where you normally coast or decelerate "manually" because they've got no ACC. This, irrespective of the things mentioned in Ooto's post above, which are terribly true and talking with people dealing with braking systems is amazing the stress the fluid goes through, also in "normal conditions" 🙄

Happy to hear there is some improvement regardless! A quieter car makes every journey much more pleasant! Yes, is amazing how many little things can make a difference. I've noticed a lot of wind noise around the B pillar, which sooner or later will want to address. There is also something creaking around the tweeter area, but the dealer does not seem inclined to do something about it, so sooner or later the gloves will come off ... I mean the door card 😝 and I will go piece by piece there.

Very interesting and illustrative! This week I have tour around where my car detail center is, and will ask about how the ceramic options are for trim, if they have used it or not, and so on ...

While not specific to Superbs, I got plenty experience buying abused stuff without proper maintenance ... Make a very throrough test drive and check to make sure you got no surprises from day one. Neglect in servicing can show up later in life, but if the price you pay now is sufficiently low to build up a margin to cover that risk, you will be fine. I was luckly in most of the cases, but when not expect early/anticipated failure of some of the neglected components (say DSG, Haldex pump, and the like). This said, you are not buying like me 20+ y.o. cars with +200k km on the clock, this is a three year car with 168k km .... well 😉 Mine was also 2021 and had only one oil change at 30K km. I was and I am still horrified at the thought, and I do not care for OE "long life oil" policy. I sticking to fix 15K km intervals (done now at 45K km) until end of warranty, and then I will do my own. I have not seen issues in the engine performance. I had the dealer made a Haldex fluid change (actually they offered as it was three years since new), and next service at 60K will be DSG and diffs as well. If you like the car and the price is good, do not let yourself be detracted by poor service intervals in the past, you can recover, and if the metal is healthy, it will go on! I would force a full fluids replacement - including coolant and brake fluid as well - if you do not have proper records of these being done.

Honestly, I am not sure, might stick to the OE oil until warranty expires ... is not much more time, maybe two more oil changes if at all. I'd save surely some euro in the oil itself, but not sure it justifies the hassle, especially as there is really have no guarantee they will use YOUR oil ....

I do not think the "hardware" part of the tow bar differs from sedan to estate. Underside the cars look identical.

Well, not done "today" but a few weeks ago, but finally I managed to find some time to update my fellows about it. I had the service done, may first to the car, still in warranty so by Skoda, and being the first time I had the car there I decided to go with the flow and let them do whatever they think was to be done. I first went to ask, at around 9K km from the 1st service (at 30K km! 😱) so it had 39K km and they said "why bother, with long-life oils we do not do less that 15K km service intervals". So I went now at 44K km in an interval between summer travels. I was given a choice of oil, or bring my own, but for goodwill I preferred to let them do .... - Oil 6lt filter some plug and washer and labor - Haldex oil (I was going to mention it but the service rep beat to it) I do not think they took out the pump and clean the strainer, but is a beginning and I plan to do that soon and labor - brake fluid (same as above) and labor - air and cabin filter and labor total damage aprox 365GBP at current exchange rate. What you guys think?

You got me thinking, and I went back to RTFM .... the mem recall works only with door open and ignition off, otherwise you need to do as you suggested, hold position depressed until seat find the mem position and stops. Thanks! A problem which was not a problem 🤪

I think that powerplant was discontinued when the car was facelifted, so I guess around 2019 must be the last year to look at.

Good to see I am not alone in the 'taste of wood' ☺️ Curiously, I guess the 'switch' mentioned by Danoid above must have come in the '90s, because my RRC was true wood, while the P38 is veneer ... Mercedes used the real thing until the W201, W124 and W126, maybe W140 as well but not sure next time I go to my friend 'breaker' he has one and will look, if I remember. Graham, unfortunately options are not many, actually it can be narrowed to two: a) source a 'wood' trim from the Scout model, which looks fairly good at least in pictures, I have never seen it "live". Obviously it has the 'Scout' emblem which should be removed somehow. This must be pricey so only option is to find a secondhand kit from someone breaking such car .... b) find a reasonable pattern and go hydrographics/hydro dip. I've done parts for other cars/projects and while not "the real thing", the result is suprisingly good, if well done. An advantage is that there are a multitude of patterns available, so we are spoiled for choice. The bad is that an entire trim set should be sourced, unless someone is willing to sacrifice his own (not me, I have done such things and now see them as mistakes and I no longer modify irreversibly a vehicle). I cannot think of any other idea to "change the look".

I got so much to update, done my 1st service, some towing, and so on, but can't seem to find the time ... hope soon, to exchange impressions. In the meantime, I did manage to "unbling" part of the interior by removing the glossy, ghastly, gear knob cover. This is what I've chose instead, more to my liking ... little but 🤩 Hope someday to be able to do the same with the horrid 'piano black' trim, which I know many like, but to me it can't beat nice "wood" type finish.

Thanks for bringing up this topic, I've noticed my memory does something weird, when I press '1' after someone else moves the seat (wife, car wash) it does not go to the required position, but just "whirrs". If I keep pressing '1' it goes in position. Will try to scan the module and see what it says, last time I only found some intermittent seat cooling error.

These are much nicer than the ones mounted on my woman's car! Way to go! 😉

It could be needed to run some diagnostics to check fully. Older cars were easier to self-recover from long times without power, but anything after the 2000s seem a bit more ... temperamental.

You're the man! The other day I 'snatched' woman's car to clean it a but after several days of dirty rain, and got curious ... lo and behold, the adapter was missing on one side! I was rummaging through the drawer of discarded items and found some suitable rubber to put as spacer, but when I took the device out, the missing part fell out, it was wedged between the headrest and the seat. All is fine now .... thanks for the heads' up! ☺️

I second the above, while I enjoy driving the Superb, for everyday city driving duties I use a smaller car. But then, to each its own ... I do not think you will "feel" the change in size from Octavia to Superb, it ain't that dramatic. For such mileage I would stay on petrol ....

Paws, I was using the expression in its non-literal "epitaph" variation, as is a reminder of greater things that has passed. I hope the IV will have its place as a performance vehicle as well, but I doubt it ... times are changing.

Then your fate is decided! As a long time lover of British steel ... I cannot really say "don't do it", but some German or Japanese offerings provide both 'fun factor' without the same level of drama ... 😄

Also you should have some uprated cooling fans!

I also find them extremely useful. THe hole for the umbrella you can use a mini-one of similar size.

I guess is not hot news, except for a few hotheads? A few links ... https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/superb/364117/new-skoda-superb-sleeper-edition-packs-porsche-performance-sensible-estate https://www.drive.com.au/news/skoda-builds-the-ultimate-sleeper-superb/ https://www.carscoops.com/2024/08/skodas-one-off-superb-sleeper-edition-is-a-wolf-in-sheeps-clothing-with-470-hp/ https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/skoda-superb-sleeper-edition-brings-470bhp-and-chassis-overhaul https://www.motoringresearch.com/car-news/skoda-superb-estate-sleeper-edition/ I think in these pages there have been far more 'tuned' vehicles, but is really nice to see effort dedicated to an outgoing model! 🤩 Some sort of Stage II car? Opinions, what you think? A pal from italy mentioned why not slap the 2.5 and DSG from the RS3 instead .... I reply: "not for the czech poor brother of the family, of course" 😁

Sorry for keep being off topic, but to close the matter above ... today I've solved the A/C issue on the Audi. Time ago, my associate (mechanic) replaced the HVAC controller as it had a failure, he wouldn't bother dissassembling it so he replaced it directly, fishing from the bin another one. As the car was a project in waiting, I had no way to check on that until few weeks ago, when I finally got the A/C radiator and piping replaced. The A/C panel he used is a '95, incompatible with the car which is a '97 (different compressor). Now I am looking for the right part ... he washed his hands on the issue. Once again, never underestimate the matter at hand, especially if more hands have passed before you ... 🤪

The sleep package came on my car, it was something I really wanted and was enough lucky to get it. It is indeed rare, I have seen it only in few cases in cars advertised for sale. When I was in dealings still to get the car, I researched the option to retrofit and unless you find a cars for parts is prohibitive. Dealer told me also forget to order as it was a factory option, not a dealer option (but he might be wrong, he did not remember selling one). Comes together with the rear blinds and with the blanket in its bag. Today I will ne nowehere near the car, but tomorrow I am and will measure the headrests as reference, I visually do not remember them as close to the Octy III, but it could be to the IV. The device you linked woman bought it for her car, but when not in use - I mean when the seat is empty - rattles noisily, which is a pity in her otherwise very silent car....

Uh, you are forcing me to admit my guilt, as the one who made the mess with the ABS it was yours truly, with my own two hands ... that is why I describe the action ☺️ Three times I had a go at it, until I got it right (this was the first time I ever did an ABS sensor). I have to say the car is a Range Rover P38, for which perhaps many rules of the automotive world do not apply ... in fact, most of 'em 🤪 Here is the way the ABS sensor comes in its kit, with the bush I was referring to: https://www.roverparts.com/brakes/sensors/STC3385/ Here is the way it looks when installing it from the workshop manual: Anyway, my intention was not to distract from the topic, just to add that sometimes there are things that look to be super straightforward, and instead are not, so the advice was not to rush but go methodically at it. I got the Audi without working A/C, and by exclusion and many attempts I am now down at a wiring/electrical issue. If I had paid attention to the first shop I asked I would have forked out many bills for a new compressor, pressure sensors, and such, but that would have not corrected the issue ... I will retreat now quietly in my hole and perish away 😁

I was mentioning because on mine RR I did had a failure on the ABS that was "fixed" by pushing the sensor further inside its housing (some sort of copper 'cage' that fits into the knuckle), which got dislogded somehow. I had a friend's D2 ABS failure due to excessive rust in the reluctor ring ... About calibration I was drawing on "universal" or aftermarket Lambda sensor (02 sensor), which sometime provide incorrect signal and data. So you thing you've fixed the problem, but not really ... Just to keep the OP aware sometimes is not black or white, or so easy fix ...