leolito

Great! Good to know it can go wider if needed, then!

Went down for a smoke (yeah, I know) and took a picture ... this is as down as they go. Calculate around 1in higher than the seat stitching (leather), depends how high sits yer kid.

My car does the same ... almost all of the times will go Android auto, activate BT and Wi-fi, but sometimes, very little times actually, will just "dumb up", even in a stop mid-way, and go Mirror Link, or even worse, miss to connect altogether, forcing me to use Waze on the phone screen instead of the car screen. I tried resetting, reconnecting, whatever, I gave up, just accept it does whatever it wants....

Now is the time you will "sacre bleu" me 😁(does anyone still use this expression?) but I have neglected brutally this subject. Unfortunately, many other things have jumped in the way, generally more priority and expensive than the pump if it was to fail. Is not an excuse, just a constatation. This said, in my log I have asked Skoda (this was during warranty period) to make the service, this was in July 24 at 43,500km, to replace oil and clean the screen. They said they did, but since I do not trust anyone anymore, I bought the kit you illustrated (including bolts and gaskets) and thought of doing this at the earliest opportunity. Believe it or not, we are at July 26 and 62,500km and have not done it yet ... ☹️ Wanted to do it before the seaside holiday trip (expected 750/800km overall, tops 1500km if I need to come back for work and go again), but I am buried in work and cannot free myself to do it, nor I do not want to bother engaging anyone ... I hope it lasts until then, after I will have a respite until September and will do it 100%.

I forgot to mention, plugs are NGK "Laser Platinum" PLFER7A8EG, given as equivalent to OE. NGK number 94833 ... Made in Thailand.

After a long time of procrastination, finally replaced spark plugs and coils, which I went for RL upgraded ones. Quick run of a few kms just to check, no issues so far. One less thing to do ... next in the line is the very-posponed Haldex screen clean.

I was today in the garage and measured my 118cm, which are actually like 124 considering the end caps. So I assume for a 135 you are looking at 140 overall width, which seems too much, so it is as djfish has shown above ... somewhere in between.

I've seen this on older Audis as well ...not an isolated phenomenon, it seems.

Any luck? Towards the end of this link there is the adventure of another briskodian and his quest to liberate the hitch from its rusty hold

I got confused in the options ... so they got GPF delete (how is this addressed in the software? I presume like a DPF delete there must be some changes in the ECU), you keep a silencer but what about the cat?

Ask me, I don't like noisy stuff anymore (except my Guzzi) ... the Superb was a downsize back to a 4 cyl car after couple decades of 5, 6, and especially 8 ... loud by definition 🙃

Good plan! Now that I think, a fairly loud exhaust should kill all the creaks and squeaks 😄

Sorry for the mishap. The fuel level and sender unit are together in the "cradle" inside the tank. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/2/201/201040 However it is tricky it has reset to 'full' and does not move ... my money is indeed on the sender/level, but also try the connectors, do not know if it shows on diagnostics.

Thanks! I am ok by "hand greasing", actually I prefer it. I use a nitrile glove (which I use 99% of the time, I barely work with bare hands no pun intended), either finger or an old flat screwdriver ideal for the purpose ....

Great work! Bravo! Frumos! 😄 Check for rattling in the plastic panels of the sub box, and eventually you can add pads of adequate material to improve the box performance. Also, if it lays against the metal sheet of the car, same process, while you are at there ...

Will see when the time comes ... For now I wait to get back home, test the new RL coils, then go on holidays, then hopefully find time to go see the local RL representative and start to make plans ... 😄

Lube is the answer! 😁 Gald you manage! Lithium grease is not bad ... a friend suggested something like "water" grease like for boats or something, will look into that. During the weekend I remember I had not said not to pull with too much force, otherwise you risk breaking the handle, or the cable ....

Sorry to hear ... I have been regularly advising on the topics to take from time to time the hitch out and oil the swing mechanism, even if is not used for towing. The thing gets all the crud and road crap and tends to freeze solid. You will have to keep trying to lower, I thinks it starts with a sideway move, I would not try to hit it, but encourage it to move ... try to pass a rope or strap and pull. It is much better of you can raise the car, more comfortable to work. When you pull the lever, the light blinks red, but does it go back to green or it remains also stuck? I am planning before the next winter season to carve a "cover" and put it in the bumper hole, there is too much crap getting there that is certainly no good for easy operation ...

I don't see it as an LHD option with cat 😢

Read also this, might have something of use

Darn what a story ... happily you saved the engine from its destruction, with subsequent anihilation of your bank account... 😬

Plug says only VAG NGK H15Y 06090560IE There is also an 'R'

Finally, after a long time procrastinating on the issue (partially I had a reason, I got another "project" back on the road 😁) I've managed to remove the coils and plugs ... 3 out of 4 coil boots gave a good fight, but I won without even damaging them, which is a plus. This week I got a set of RacingLine HO coils, there is a local dealer/authorized point, souns like reasonable fellas, so I plan to visit them sometime and ... "talk". Could be a dangerous talk! The coils were 240 euro shipped, think I good price. Anyone wants to comment on the condition of the plugs at 62k km? They look fairly fine to me .... but is the first time I see 'em 😄 Should I replace them with same kind or there is any improvement available? Car does not have any issue that I am aware of.

Did you find the key? 🙃

Sorry about the fauna attack! 🙃 No, unfortunately on newer cars you got no way, you got to remove the mechanism and for this you need to get the glass out. The videos you have seen are correct, there is usually one only position to allow the glass to be disconnected, wether is by means of a screw or sometimes a clip - I would not know. Check in the "projects" section if someone has done work on the doors as a reference.