leolito

Correct the above, with GPF went again single injection, and lost the exhaust valve as well. Mine still has the plugs in the manifold 😁

Actually I learned with some disappointment that earlier cars had two umbrellas .... oh well. Me? Only changed winters to summers like at the beginning of the month, this time I've the spacers correctly advised by fellas here. I think I took some photos. My list of things "to do" is bigger than ever ...

It is correct, and is not the only car to do it! Welcome to "modern" machinery! 😁

Sorry to read this now. My neighbour - who is an indy, a very pedantic guy which suits perfectly for precision job has recently told me of a "creaking saga" on his brother in law Tiguan ... and it was this bush, which he told me is made of two parts, one lower, easily accessible, and one upper, accessible only when you drop the subframe. He took it in as a family favor - classic - thinking it was an easy up to an hour job ... 😁 He spent most of the day with it, had to drop the subframe, had two bushes returned as they were not the right ones, the broke another one, and at the end he got borrowed from another indy service the "official" VW tool for it, which both guys agreed it works because - I quote - is the only one that has the precise matching of both upper and lower bushes, that had a notch that much precisely align otherwise the entire assy does not fit back in the subframe. I have not seen it, but it makes sense, for as much that makes sense another folly from VAG group .... In the light of the above, had I seen this before I would have advised to leave this job for the service, there is no shame in not being able to do everything yourself ... if you can borrow or rent the tool, and obviously have a press and facilities to drop the subframe, yeah it is something that can be attempted ... but there is a lot to take apart and put back together ...

Your idea is certainly bizzarre and interesting, compliments for the creativity! I have also misplaced one key fob recently and cannot find it, and thinking how to do it .... Tee problem I see is you need a large amount of things to do to get your idea implemented ... door panel off so to access the wiring an "aerial" or the received of the signal - maybe you could unbolt yours? see here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/9/909/909000 cable/wiring to extend as you go around, and need the connector as well find a way to close the door again make sure you got meters of wire to spool 😁 spend time walking around .... I like your idea, but thinking all this above just in terms of time, you could spend an equivalent amount systematically searching the house - if you sure is there? 😄

Great job! Watching with interest ... not I have budget available now for such an expense! Let us know if something interesting comes out of the engine before remap. I assume the ECU might reclibrate some parameters if sensing more air coming in?

I suspect you are refering to the rubbe o-ring like thing, look in the diagram here perhaps numers 8 or 12 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/9/955/955010 If you cannot get it from the dealer, perhaps a well-supplied auto store can get you a similar size o-ring (see they are listed in size in the diagram). Good luck!

I commend the surely superb (no pun intended!) physical condition of some of you (you probably know who you are 😁) that sit, lie and joggle around with the wheels! Bravo! Me, I go more practical ... I use the pin since like a millon years*, together with the little "tweezers" that take the plastics cap off ... They are very practical tools, worth its weight in gold. I always try to scour an extra one/two when I go to the breakers, usually get discarded .... 1 put the pin in an upper hole in the hub 2 bring the wheel along and kneel (before Zod!) one knee down - use a pad or a rag 3 lift slightly the wheel and get it over the pin, use the foot that is not "keeling" to hold the lower part of the wheel, by the tires. 4 as the wheel slides over the pin, manouver to fit on the hub, up/down or sideways depending on how far you are in fitting on the hub. If done correcly, now you got the wheel centered on the hub, hanging on the pin on the top, and held by your foot 😀 5 with both hands free, attach two bolts by hand, or one by the extension, this depends, on the RR I could do both bolts at once, in the Superb one with the extension. 6 tighten with tool as required I find this not tiring. My mate who used to be in the trade ditches the pin to save more time, and does it as follows: 1 positions the wheel by the hub, fits one bolt in upper position and kneels (not before Zod) 2 lifts wheel onto hub by watching through the spokes how the bolt/hole align, moment they do he pushes the wheel onto the hub, and uses the foot as above 3 tightens by hand first bolt fully, then you got the wheel firmly onto the hub 4 do all the other bolts and tighten as required Can't say his method is better or not, is just different. For me the pin is invaluable ... the W126 came with a full-size (rims are deep!) aluminum one, looks like a chiselled jewel ... but even the ugly plastic VAG one does the job!

It is a probable reason ... there was a reason why in the Age of Engineering it was advisable to have a short-term initial oil/fluid change on a new component/vehicle ...

On cold start, especially in colder weather, is not a bad thing to allow proper oil circulation before setting off, which can take a few seconds, i usually let it idle for 15/20 sec in warmer weather - it is not a big deal, the time to fit the belt, set up the infotainment, and such. On very cold say a minute or two.... Important thing is to be gentle and progressive in stepping on the skinny pedal, unless you are in a hurry, no sense to gun a cold forced induction engine. And as travs mentioned, respect cool-down times. What Berisford's neighbour does is bad from mechanical perspective, and not only. Now your 280 has also GPF, which means sometimes the engine management system will increase RPMs in order to heat, pre-heat, or run whatever cycle it runs with the GPF. While can be alarming at first, it is normal .... If I have to manouver and it goes on fast idle, I wait until RPMs drop before turning off, something worries me about cutting off who knows what process that might set off a fault ....

Unmistakable top cover of the V6 and V8 Mercs of the era. You got a very nice toy, likely the last "user-friendly" human-level sports MB. And with possibly their best designed V8, in terms of usability and longevity. Nothing before or after is equally rewarding ... there are fierce arguments on the subject, but the M113 reigns overall... I got mates with such thing in whatever you can think of: got one that had a 400CDI G-klasse and went crazy in repair costs, and fitted a M113 500 ... another pur the same engine in a 124CE (a beast, very challenging to drive), got another who has your same car but manual, using the 6spd from a CLK240 (this one much more pleasurable to drive), another with a W140 with the same engine, another one with a ... Kia Sportage running on portal axles 😄 you name it! Great thing, if you need any assistance do not hesitate to ask, half of the cars mentioned above have been rebuilt from the ground up and there is lots of experience on the subject 😉

It is actually difficult to go back to 2WD after you got "pampered" but the more controllable - but certainly also tracherous - all-wheel-drive.... I have noticed the 280 does it best in the mid-upper range of the rev counter. And I now drive it in "manual" like ... all the time 🤨

If you have already cleaned the seat belt, I have noticed afterwards a light application of silicon spray makes the them belt "roll" smoother and faster. I usually pull all the belt out, spray with the can and at the same time pass a microfiber cloth to wipe any excess, thus my concept of "light" application 😁 But it works ....

Well, true that it does need verification but all the factors listed herein are known variables that lead to inevitable - and costly - failure. Oil dilution is not an unknown issue, been with us for years, cases with some engines such as JLR's Ingenium series are very well reported. But also in the off-road communities, where extensive/continous wading can provoke water ingestion in g-boxes, t-boxes and diffs, resulting in oil dilution with possible catastrofic failures. In other words, oil should not mix with anything ... 😄 Oil viscosity and its long-term resistance when exposed to high temps for extended uses is also known, known example is discussions in towing communities where ATF degradation after "cooking the fluid" and its suggested anticipated replacement. Same for engine oil, especially in high-CR forced induction engines. Whether you talk fast street, race, drag or drift ... Long life oils I will not get into it, but for the mechanically inclined, it is very difficult to accept that a lubricant will maintain its qualities for +20k, especially engine oil. Whatever progresses have been made in the field, there is no magic pill .... The consensus I have gathered by people who work on engines, really work, is that rarely an oil (whatever make/type) allows more than 6-8k km before degrading to a point in which its lubricant and cooling capabilities become compromised. Finally, there are also very specific conditions in which an additive is needed. People I know that work in labs in the field, report that under most conditions, it is possible certain additive properties "act" faster than the lubricant properties, thus negating the advantage of a high-quality oil, and creating a situation in which also the advantage of the additive is negated. Sorry for not explaining it more technically, but there is also lots of information on the subject. In short, even though we went a long way since dino oil and 3k replacements, certain mechanical rules and basis cannot be magically altered ... true, there are engines seemingly doing very long mileages and apparently doing well, but what do they show if they were to be dissected and examined? I do not want to risk ... costs me too much to have an engine overhaul. These are not anymore simple powerplants ...

Have engine mounts replaced. Also, on a neighbour with a similar issue the dogbone needed replacement, but not only the "dogbone" part, but also the upper mount in the subframe, for which the latter had to be taken down ... a real hassle, but it solved his issue. Note - to align the two bushes - dogbont and upper sub-frame bush - a special VAG tool is needed, there is no other workaround. My neighbour - he is an indy and Webasto/Eberspacher center, so not improvised - has a real fun day doing this. I admit this has left me wonder if only to do the dogbone like travs, or to do all bushings together ...

I do have a couple of vehicles in my stable that do very very little mileages per year, and for those I go by "time interval", I would not keep even a good synth oil more than two years, due to acidification and age/wer processes. And especially as you are doing low distance commuting, I have my city runabout in half-distance replacements - 3 to 4k km. Yes it is an expense, and use of oil, but it always costs less than damage to the engine ... plus I have an use for the "used oil", so it does not get waster really. As for the viscosity, I am against a 0W-20 on a almost 300hp 2 liter turbo, but then I do gun it as it should be ... lots of opinions as you have seen, and each one has its own!

Can someone send me the correct link to said module? I got one from a friend and tried, and it did not work. He told me after it was for Tiguan - or ti could be defective, also a possibility! I browse but there are a lot, and would not like to get the wrong one! Thanks in advance!

Initial test showed that A: the fire ext. needs to be with the nozzle "down", otherwise it interferes with the seat, and B: when the seat is moved fully forward and it is in the lowest position, it drags the thing until the tape gaves and the thing rolls on the mat 😁 So I solved the problem with turning the unit, moving it a lil more forward, putting some duct time around the cradle and around the foam for extra-safety, and leaving the seat a little raised ... will see how it goes, and report. The other bracked I did not need, as it fixes to the floor, but I will think of some other use ...

Of course I realized late that this somehow is not correct for power seats, and especially with the Canton amp under the driver's seat ... so after some mumbling, I decided to use the area under the passenger seat where some foam cover lies, housing come ECU. Too flimsy to be drilled, I used double-sided tape.

This was long in the making, but finally today I put my will into it. Been wanting to find an accomodation for a fire extinguisher (here compulsory by law) for a long time. Not to have it swinging around, I've looked into the accessories' catalogue options, and I got the relevant parts:

Fully agree on all points! I did not meant to minimize cold-start wear, but to consider in the perspective of a small range difference in weight. I missed when 0W-20 became required, mine being a DNF engine and having listed 0W-30 ... I thought the Mk3 Superb 280 'died' with 0W-30 when production stopped.

Yeah, long term idling is not a great thing to do, but a cooling system in good shape should be able to cope with it. One option to assist the engine in air flow is to release the hood ... or bonnet. Now it might not be possible to prop it open, especially in case of slow moving traffic, but just the gap when you pull the lever is enough to assist ...

I will read your links, and I am also looking, but clear evidence is not easy to find.... While this might make sense, I am not sure how it translates into reality ... if there is sufficient oil pressure circulating through the engine, then the oil will get everywhere it needs to, it is not that it becomes jelly that blocks the oilways 😄 Also, I am looking for charts confirming how viscosity differs between a '30' and a '40' grade oil at 100deg C and it seems to be less than what would worry... but perhaps would be better to have it on a separate discussion. These are also very interesting considerations ... is it better mechanically? perhaps yes, but as you say, you will send the car away so "who cares". I am not picking on you, but this is another subject, that I cannot easily explain ... most cars in my geographical location are well-lived, therefore any shortcomings in earlier maintenance, or follies such as 20-30k km intervals, come to fruition "here", where everything starts to fall apart ... 😄😁 And while the old adage of the increased wear on start-up is valid, it is also true we are no longer talking about 1 5W or 20W dino oil ... we are talking modern lubricants on modern vehicles. Most of the damage, maybe more "carnage" is the adequate word, that I get to see or heard around here comes from cooked oil, stuck/damaged pistons rings, destroyed oil pumps, stretched chains and/or broken/defective tensioners, scored camshafts, bearings, and so on ... in all cases, no matter the reason, old/overworked lubricant is always present as a main culprit ...

Certainly, each speaks from its experience, and having the location listed in the profile is what helps assess from where comes said experience. However, since I have become "suspicious" since a few years now on the subject, I keep a wary approach and tend to inquiry over the subject considering other aspects not only location-climate wise. For example, for the wifemobile (CT200h) a 0W-20 given (car is European-spec), but my mechanic (ex-Toyota, now indi, and a very serious person I know since years) showed me the maintenance tables for the same car in Russia, for which a 5W-30 is given.... and there would be a general "colder" climate, so should not be the opposite? Our guess is this is because friction and thus emissions, and nobody gives a thought about mechanical longevity, since this is not but the owner's problem .... And we have held extensive discussions on the subject, and after a few engines dismantled for the most various reasons, every 1.8 engine has the same internals, except for a camshaft redesign. Yet Toyota has shifted over the years from 5W-30 to 0W-30 to 0W-20 to 0W-16 .... the change cannot obey technical reasons if the mechanicals are unchanged, no? A mate of mine has a Wrangler JK, with the 3.6 Pentastar. Car is GCC-spec, came from Saudi. Given lubricant spec is 0W-20, while here in Bulgaria is given 5W-30. Obviously he refuses to utilize 0W-20 and is instead using 5W-30, but again, you would have though only based on climate/location, the other way around? Sorry about the long post, I consider the matter fascinating, if not worrisome because it is out money at stake when something goes wrong, not the manufacturer's ....

Might be overkill a LL oil for short-intervals, but if it suits you, why now. I cannot comment on the brand, as is not in use here (dealer uses OE or Castrol). Very good observation I forgot to mention ... this spec recommends only LL oils, and only in up to the '30' hot viscosity grade, for example for mine 2021 is a 0W-30. I have seen earlier norm (502 for petrol) available also in non-LL and above '30' grade.