RattleWagon

Same era Skoda Yeti wheels are 7x17 ET45 btw

Hi, 2.0 tdi (ea288, CUNA), 240 kkm, 50-50 city/highway. Approx. Every ~300 km. Some times intervall is shorter. I guess it depends how it has been driven after last one (cold short city trips vs highway). No additives.

At least in older cars it was possible to open radiator cap or expansion tank cap when engine is running and see gas introduced into the system if head gasket was faulty, check youtube. Not sure if this works on these cars. Only try when coolant is cold or get boiled hands.

Well it really depends where the coolant goes. I bet it is not good for the emission equipment (DPF) if it leaks into the engine or exhaust (charge cooler, egr cooler..) Edit: Btw, just to make sure since I didn't see this mentioned, does the engine oil look like oil and not coffee with milk?

It is true that faulty head gasket can let combustion gases enter the coolant circulation from the cylinders, causing the system to be pressurised even when cold. However, are you sure the hissing is not air flowing into the tank because of vacuum in the system? In closed system there shud be vacuum if closed warm and opened cold. Or if you have a leak and coolant leaks out from the system ie. when it is warm and pressurised. Theoretically, if it is vacuum, the coolant level shud drop a little when opened and if it is pressurised the coolant level shud rise when opened. However, the change in coolant level is probably undetectable to naked eye.

Any chinese leds or other 3rd party electrics added lately?

Well if you dont have any records about the last service(s) then it's better to do at least the oil change. Better to be safe than sorry, an oil change does not cost that much. The service calculation shown on your infontaiment can be re-set multiple ways, including just pressing the trip button correct way, so without knowing when or who has done it last time the numbers on infontaiment can not be trusted.

Did you have this problem before the water pump and radiator were done? Or when this problem started? Why was radiator done? How about the notorious silica bag? Do you have it? ('mit silikat' written on the coolant expansion tank, google / search forum if necessary).

Mk3 VRS diesels or anything with 2.0 tdi ea288 engines quite often consume some oil. Especially pre-fl imo. Not all of them tho. I believe piston rings were updated 2017. I think there is multiple threads about this even in this forum, google it if you are interested.

I have used skoda-parts multiple times and totally can recommend. Skoda-parts tell manufacturer and in this case it is genuine Skoda part and they have no aftermarket alternatives for this.

Yea now that I started to dig again, the Sachs rear shock I put there is not for Scout but only suitable for standard Octavia. Well it is what it is, better than worn original shocks. If I again get new ones for a Scout, I'll just buy genuine ones. However, best place for Skoda parts IMO is Skoda-parts.com and they seem to have your shocks with better price: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5q0513029st-shock-absorber-rear-skoda-48436.html

Idk if this helps since vrs and scout are the day and night suspension wise, but just checked mails with dealership, original number in a Scout rear shock was 5E0 512 011 C. New number they gave was 5E0513029D. And now I remember that I actually used that given number and found only low quality options but the low quality options had reference numbers to other manufactuers numbers and there I found Sachs 318 202. I guess it necessarily might not be 100 % match to the OEM, but they have been fine for a year and no problem fitting.

Yeah similar experiences with a Scout. Nothing came up with the original part number that was written in the original rear shock. I asked from dealership, they told me it is replaced with a new part, totally different number. With this number I was able to find some alternatives, including Sachs.

For best performance and battery longlivety, battery changes should be "coded" to the car with a diagnostic tool. Do you know if this was done? 6 months is quite short time to get new battery roasted due to not coding, but possible. Also as mentioned above, better to check the battery. With modern **** 6 month old batteries failing is not that rare. Shud get new with warranty tho. U shud be able to roughly check battery condition with 20 €/£/$ multimeter. Otherwise u shud be good to just drive the car and enjoy the car without start-stop Besides battery problems, fault codes via diagnostic tool shud point towards the reason..

Why the pattern is different?

What year the car/engine are from? 11.7 V is low if measured from the battery with multimeter. Diagnostic tools (and the car) typically read the voltage elsewhere where the voltage is lower. Try measuring at the battery. How has the car started and ran recently? Otherwise sorry no experience with this fault code. Idk if VCDS could dig more codes out?

In my scout the annoying sound comes from the boot rather than doors when there is ice. Im not sure if it is the seals or something else. I think some adjustments to boot are possible but they necessary dont help with the problem. I also changed rear door seals due to other issues and the same sound is still present (however it has always been the boot imo). One possible reason for squeky door seals is wax on the seals. Basically if you or someone has got wax on the seals (or on the meeting opposite surface on the door) while waxing the car. If you think this is possible try to wash the seals and wipe with IPA or similar wax removal (and then add ie. above mentioned seal/rubber care products).

It is possible that the pulley fail so that it "spins empty" and does not rotate the alternator. You can check this by looking at the alternator when the engine is running, are the alternator internals rotating (the copperwire mess). If the alternator rotates, then I dont believe that new pulley wud fix the charging problem. However, if the one way function of the pulley has failed, it might be the root cause for the alternator failure.

It is not a big job to change the one way pulley, many videos in youtube. However it is easy only if you get the right tool to change it. I think there is two variants for the tool (different type inner bit, hex or torx if i remember correctly), depending on alternator manufacturer. Check ie. LLLparts or 7zap to find correct part number for your car and alternator manufacturer to get right tool. I recommend using pulleys made by INA. Check ie. this video, bit older car but the principle is same (or was in 2015 2.0 tdi octavia). However, you dont need to rise the car to remove the belt, easy to do from above. Also you dont need to raise the engine. https://youtu.be/il7CN53qQjg?si=iU7H9IYJTIhsUI0Y Btw, while there and since the pulley has been faulty, changing the belt is recommended.

Neat & Športy. Nice details in the license plate 😁

Sweet. Can we have a pic straight behind? I have the same emblems waiting for better weather (summer) to fit them. Even tho I think the Š is a bit misaligned in these eblems.. I guess they all come from the same mold. Btw, Š logo wheel caps are now also available in the chinese market sites if u are interested. They have Š centered better lol.

Idk how lights are in superbs boot but is there a way to kink the lights to provide light into other direction? Ie. Reshape the hole they fit in. Or if the bulb / housing has some sort of direction, turn them upside down 180 degrees, any effect?

Interesting. What you mean by reaching 2,2 bar? Is that the value ecu is asking (specified) or what is delivered (actual)? Have you checked with a diagnostic tool if the actual value follows the specified value (is there really a underboost problem)?

Sure, but sinc sprays might not be best alternative. Some of them are **** and some OK. As a rust pretentive primer I have had better results with Wurth Rost-Stop for such applications. Does not matter that much tho, the lift points will get abused over and over and any sealing will wear. Overall, from my experience it is common that sealing wears off from the lifting points and it is surface rusted bare metal what there is at lifting points in mk3's nowadays. I wud say it is common with all cars and it is not a problem. They will last for the life of the car. But of course there is expections. However I wud not waste my money by taking it to a professional. For piece of mind I recommend to just keep resurfacing it by yourself if you wish to do so.

Remember to be careful when taking off the old struts (electrical boots), some of them fail so that they shoot the inner rod out with enough force to cause injuries (fingers, eye/face) or paint damage to the car.