RattleWagon

I tried to duplicate this today with my car, 2.0 tdi dsg, but could not get such rpm drop happen. Rpm stayed the same and only velocity changed while the clutch was slipping. However, it might be related to the slipping feature if it only happens on second gear. Perhaps the clutch is wearing out?

This is just something to consider but I can not tell if this is the case or if this is related. VAGs with DSGs slip the clutch on second gear at low speeds instead of downshifing to first gear. It might just be that it is purposelly slipping the clutch and the rpm decreases when you accelerate and the clutch is properly engaged.

Hi, I dont know where that bit is from, but sounds like you blower has worn out its brushes. So basically blower has to be replaced. There is videos in youtube, it is a simple job. You may reuse the actuator that is in the blower and order only blower without the actuator to safe few bucks.

Just leave it and live with it. We all have it and it is not worth to worry about it.

I think one side heat problems are commonly caused by heater matrix problems. Especially if it is right hand side what is cold (Driver or passenger side, depending where you live). Search this forum, there is many posts about it. Driver side cold Silica bag Heater matrix

There is a open/close microswitch in the lock/latch that might be faulty. Some times rear window washer system leaks into the lock (inside, not visible without removing trims) and causes this. More commonly just the microswitch fails.

Every time I shut off the engine it sounds like a dog is barking somewhere close (two high pitch barks). At first I thought it was my neighbours dog barking every time I come home but later I realised it is the car lol.

Bring somewhere else to check. Should be firmer with new shocks, especially with Bilstein.

Seems like a normal cold start tbh. If you feel it is harder, check battery.

Start by changing the bulb(s). It is the most common reason. Xenons often start to flicker when they are about to go 'kaput'. Check youtube for guidance, it is pretty much the same than with older cars. Both xenon bulbs (left and right) have own ballasts and they are different than the DRL LED ballast.

If regens happen normally there are no lights in the dash. DPF warning light comes on only when there are issues with regens. Basically it is made to be as unnoticiable as possible by Skoda. However, during active regen, while stopping ie. at traffic lights one might notice higher idle revs and possibly smell something is burning. Also in city driving higher revs / lower gears overall can be noticed And if you shut off the engine during active regen, the fan will stay on for some time and it smells like burning. Besides active regens, also passive regen happens during motorway driving, basically high enough load provides high enough temperature for some particle burning. With your driving, less active regens are needed. If the engine burns oil, dpf will suffer and needs more regens. Mpg drop and oil consumption together sound bad. Piston or piston ring problems perhaps? Low compression pressures due to piston (ring) damage would explain low mpg and how oil is burning. I hope this is not the case. Have you had fault codes read? There might be something pointing to right direction.

I recommend using bulbs from Kopacek, former super-skoda. Cheaper ebay etc. bulbs might cause random issues over time because they have less resistance than oem bulbs and can mix up the electric circuit they are part of. You probably want to do this only once.

Lets hope so, tho the problem often come and go, stay tuned 😅

I had aliexpress LED bulbs in boot over a year before problems started. However, they were the cause. Other possibility is microswitch in the boot lock/latch. Basically a latch replacement job. Some times there is leak in the rear washer that causes the problem in the latch. However, you shud start by replacing the LED bulbs with OEM bulbs or with OEM equivalent LEDs that have similar resistance than OEM bulbs. At least Kopacek sells such LEDs.

Overflow? Now I am following with interest. AFAIK the transimission is closed system without any relief valves or other ways to overflow out from the system. Does someone know better? Btw, does the oil smell like transimission oil or if not familiar, does it smell at all? I ask bcs it cud be something else leaking above the transimission, ie. leak from boost pipe looks clear oil because it is condensed PCV oil. Has such possibility been considered? Edit. Nvm, apparently there is a breather. Good to know.

For disclaimer, I am not familiar with these DRL issues. Sure it is possible but not what the code suggests IMO. I wud expect 'open circuit' type of code from faulty components in the loop. The short to ground suggests that electricity has easier way to ground than going trough the LED system loop. The 'leak' can be anywhere in the system (wiring or components). Wud expect to find something before the LED strip in current flow direction. The suggested water in head lamp is possible reason. Then again, the fault codes are not always accurate. Cud be any fault in the loop, including the LED driver. But code suggests to start looking for short.

I wud start by following the error code. Check for broken wires that cud cause short to ground.

Yes, normally there is no warning lights or any indication that regen is happening. They tried to make it user friendly so that one cud drive the car whitout even noticing the regens. Typically people notice it when they park the car during a active regen because of the fan staying on and burning smell. During driving one can notice the higher rpms and increased idle rpms.

Hmm there should not be any locking in the differential the car has, could the 'locking of differential' prefer to haldex clutches engagement then. The clutches cud slip but i have never heard this causing noises.. the power just does not reach rear.. Any locking would be brakes applied to left or right wheel. If that happens incorrectly because of some sensor it could cause the issue but i dont believe that is the case, just trying to think... That would most likely also cause other problems or DTCs. I guess you changed rear diff fluid while doing the bearings, probably the haldex has also been serviced? One cud easily assume cv joints dont give such problems but it might be worth checking. While cornering, accelerating and haldex fully engaged a single rear cv joint sees max torque it can and bad cv joints tend to show symptoms only under max load. Should happen around high torque rpm area of the engine. However they usually give some vibration too. Edit. So you replaced bearings in the diff and problems started 10k km afterwards?

Hi, what makes you think the rear diff locks? Do you have wheels slip, feel vibration or only sound? These cars have open differentials, and slipping is only limited by brakes (Electronic LSD). Cud be a cv joint, or a bearing in rear diff, or cud be anything else as well.

It does not literally go to sports mode. It just alters the shift points so that it generally drives on higher rpm during a regen. The actual sport mode is way different, it holds way more the low gears and higher rpms than the regen rpms.

Yes normal, regen needs high temperature and revs equal temperature. IMO the car is much better to drive when it is doing a regen 😁 I think egr is also closed during a regen and the engine performs better. Cud be wrong tho. Enjoy the regens!

The requirements made me think about Skoda Scala. It might be too new model to have used ones in your budget?

ET in audi wheels tend to differ quite a lot from Skoda wheels. What is ET of the wheels? (Usually smaller so they wud come out, and maybe affect handling). Moreover 225/55R17 is taller than Scout wheels. Are you trying to lift your VRS 😁 And some Audi wheels have bigger center hole.

Overall, to my understanding performance tcu tunes (dsg) make gear boxes less reliable. The components have to work harder to make the faster shifts etc. Basically just like stage 1 ecu tunes make turbos work harder etc. However, it still might be worth it. Subjective things. Then there are softer tcu comfort tunes, such as TVS drivability tune, which mostly alter the gear shift points. Some of them claim also to extend life time of a dsg. Idk if longlivety terms are true in such tunes, but at least they shud not shorten the life time due to faster shifts.