RattleWagon

Okay now looking at this I was not thinking straight yesterday. The latter theory was based on assumption that no fuel is used during coasting and the momemtum is used to restore engine rpm. Obviliously this is not the case. Sorry. However, any idea why the car claims 0 petrol used during coasting? Perhaps so little is used that with the shown decimals it rounds down to 0? In that case, I guess there is a speed limit (depending on incline at least) where it is more beneficial to coast than be on gear? Meaning, in high enough speed, idling while coasting uses less fuel than would be used if engine breaking is done and more fuel would be needed sooner.

Basically any amount of coasting vs no coasting at all will get you longer way without fuel. However, car needs enough momentum to recover engine operation without too much disturbance so it has to stop coasting at some point. In other words, without the coasting before going back to gear, the car would need to start using fuel at earlier point. Now you travel longer distance without using fuel, even tho you dont start to use fuel immediately on gear. But at some point the car has to be ready to use fuel again and thus get on gear. IMO cruise control reduces mpg. The car unnecessary keeps the speed up even on uphill. While you instead cud travel bit slower uphill and bit faster downhill.

Most likely. There should be some kind of audit for all these garages doing alignment. Too many are doing poop work.

Have you got alignment checked? No tire should be done in 10k.

Typically these are boot related. Most common reason is aftermarket LEDs in the car. Do you have any? Other common reason is leaking rear washer (internal leak to boot lock). It also might be the boot lock, they go bad (the microswitch that recognise is the boot lock open or closed.).

Had to check more carefully how it was and for MY2015 ea288 2.0 tdi engine codes CVCA and CRUA G12evo is not compatible and should keep using G13. MC-10208466-0001 (1).pdf

G12evo is typically best except if initially filled with G13 when it is better to keep using G13, I believe. 2.0 tdi engines often are initially G13 filled.

Any aftermarket LED bulbs or other electronics? At least with automatic trunks they cause all kind of issues. It seems that for some reason the lock gets false signal to lock. Could also be some old fashioned electric problems in the lock. Do you have rear window washer? Sometimes they leak internally to the lock and cause problems.

Manual trunk or electric? Lock or close?

Sounds feasible, probably could be confirmed with a diagnostic tool live data when it happens.

Yeah, sounds like water pump regulator problem. On another note, the wet in the photos seem more like oil than coolant? Especially with coolant I wud expect more purple/pink color. However, might just appear like that in the photos and be coolant. How does your oil look like if you check the dip stick? About the coolant disappearing, can you find any purple/pink leaks/traces if you look around the engine. Probably should be observed from below to see if water pump is leaking, covers might cover the view from above but with such big leak it would drain past the cover and should be visible from below. Or you can try ie. putting your phone down there while filming video. However, this does not matter very much since best action for you is most likely to take it somewhere for diagnosis and fixing. If timing belt and/or water pump was changed recently, i wud try to get the pump changed in warranty.

Hi

No, the gauge should stay at 90 also during a regen.

For me the dpf pressure difference is IDE07745. I believe ideal value / with new dpf after regen this should be below 10 hPa at idle. I think 100 hPa at idle is somewhat limit for bad dpf, especially after regen. Yes i guess there would be code if enough boost leaks and turbo could not make enough to compensate the leak / meet the specified pressure value. Injector values are great. Have you considered seized brake caliper(s)?

I have no idea what it is but if I wud be certain it comes from the rear I wud put vcds to log all kind of haldex unit data during the drive and take note of the time when sound occurs and then look at the logged data (at home or so). Something like haldex pressure and pump voltage etc. Again, I dont know if it is even from haldex.

Check if bottom part of the boot has drain holes, possibly they are blocked.

Forgot to say that the wheel bearing is not necessarily toasted yet even if it is the source of the leak so it might seem and sound ok. But if it comes from the bearing it will be very kaput very soon, if not yet.

If it is coming from the car, i wud guess wheel bearing grease. If possible lift the car or jack that corner up and without hand brake spin the wheel by hand and listen for any scraping noise and feel how freely the wheel spins. Also you can take the wheel off to see better where the leak is coming from. However, are you sure anyone has not sprayed some oil there to help loosen wheel bolts or wheel hub bolt? Any work done there lately?

Instead of looking at dpf mass values see dpf pressure difference at idle and when giving gas while standing still on neutral. Google can tell acceptable values I dont recall them right now. Does it use oil? Air filter ok? Boost pipe cracked? Brakes jammed? How close the injection deviation values are to 1.5? I believe also mk3 EGR can brake so that valve flap gets disconnected from the controllel so that the car thinks the egr is moving while it is not.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT

How much driving during the 15 months? One cud do 3000 or 30000 miles in 15 months.

Well yes I guess there cud be faulty temp sensor in the cabin on passenger side that would drive the flaps so that no hot air is sent to passenger side when on automatic temp control. If you put it on manual and full blast high heat you shud get hot air from passenger side regardless of any temp sensors. More likely it is the heater matrix.

Well obliviously something is wrong. A litre of oil in a month is excessive consumption. Assuming you dont drive 10000 miles in a month. 184hp 2.0 tdi can use any VAG 507 specified oil.

Perhaps start with the known problem, EGR. And maybe let the DPF be if it does not give problems. You can get it cleaned when it is a problem.

Functional limitation due to energy management sounds like low battery voltage. Old battery? Or battery is draining for some reason. Or was drained by usage before the code was recorded. I wud ignore the horn open circuit for now since it is occurred once and is intermitten. (Ofc it might have occured more than once but reseted itself). Except if you have unexpected battery draining. Ofc you cud try does your horn work.