OccyVRS

Just to add to this - nothing wrong with ex-demo cars. My car isn't, but one of my parents cars is an ex-demo and the other is ex-courtesy. Both very tidy, bought on a few thousand miles. Ex-press is a bit different. If it's a 'normal' car then it's fine, but if it's anything performance based, I'd avoid. The only real thing to look for is the DSG and Haldex service if applicable. You shouldn't be at belt/chain time yet, although 60k is nearing the therm/pump danger zone for some engines.

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The Born is as far from an Octavia as a Huracan is. The difference between the vRS and the 1.5 is honestly best answered by the similarities - which, really, are the carpets, infotainment, some body panels, wipers and basic chassis. Otherwise, the steering, suspension, brakes, engine, gearbox, design and everything else is a totally different thing. They are designed to serve two totally different purposes. It’s like comparing a 3.0 TDI A6 to an RS6 GT. Sure, they’re the same car, but they’re also just not even in the same universe, let alone the ball park.

Grinding, or rubbing? Was the caliper wound in all the way? Anything up with the brake disc/shield? We're sure it's the braking system and not a bearing, etc? Perhaps you could jack the car up and spin the wheel, maybe putting the video up here?

+100000000% That said, it's strange to have that at 35/40mph - motorway speeds I could understand. Anyway, first port of call is to check all of the cabin seals - doors, windows, boot, cabin filter, drains, etc. Anything else is totally irrelevant to that problem.

Not just cheap - my uncle was unable to listen to the radio with a rear dascam - even when using high quality cables with the ferrite cores, etc.

Oh, completely. Unless they are trained and used to them, most places won't touch them with a bargepole. It took me several weeks and a few phone calls to find somewhere reputable and experienced to do my DSG service (The Phirm in Camberley, Surrey - absolutely top blokes). To be honest, I couldn't even be bothered to comment properly - OP will find that the dark oil was probably due to the (145k) filter not being replaced OP will find that the gearbox oil should be warmed when filling a DSG box, among other steps OP will probably find the high pressure pump is knackered, having been run dry OP will find that starting the car to 'see if I fitted it right' isn't a prescribed step in a VW service bulletin It will probably be worth keeping an eye on the other threads they've posted too - https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/46651-skoda-dsg-problems/ https://www.reddit.com/r/skoda/comments/1lkazbx/possible_mechatronic_issue/ Again, I'm not sure any of this is stuff they should be doing themselves!

Just to add to this - after almost killing my battery by leaving my windows open all night (I was exhausted, alright) I was met with a list of fault codes as long as my arm. When the battery voltage drops too low, lots of stuff becomes unhappy and logs a code - from the ACC and collision avoidance to power windows and gateway signal codes. I had a heart attack as I thought it could be to do with water damage. The battery was replaced, along with the window switches as a precaution - it's just coming up to a year and all is well. I would leave it as is, until Skoda look at it. I would also plug it into a trickle charger - I did the same on my Octavia and it lasted the week or so until I replaced the battery. Once the battery is replaced, look up 'reset one touch windows'.

Proper sound deadening is a far more important upgrade. Annoyingly (well, deliberately) you can't just add on a sub to the base audio system. It would be a whole new install which, for most people, is more hassle than it's worth.

These specific wheels or not, it should be fairly obvious to see if a bit of metal has been glued to the inside of the alloy (never really heard of superglued spacers, btw). As said, if you would like to post a photo of the barrel of the wheel, someone may be able to help further. A quick look on ebay should give you some idea.

Hang on, OP ran a wet clutch DQ381 without oil? As someone said, I've no idea what you're trying to do besides ruin your car. You were told it's a software issue with the MCU so what on earth are you doing running it without oil (lubrication and pressure)? The P0C2900 code is for the DSG oil pump - common guidance is after this code has come up, to completely disassemble the box to inspect for damage - funnily enough, nowhere mentions what steps to take after this code is thrown from a complete oil starvation. No offence, but if you aren't sure if your gearbox is a wet clutch, and you're relying on a YouTube video, perhaps you're best leaving DSG work to a trained mechanic? You're playing with fire.

DSG gearboxes? Anywhere with a TVS Engineering sticker is worth a look.

Without proper sound deadening (not a talking point of Skoda, VW, SEAT, etc) you're quite limited. I would bet a cheap system in a properly prepped car will sound better than a custom 18 speaker system in a 2007 VW Fox. The standard sound system is, again, pretty awful in the grand scheme of things, but it absolutely does the job. I didn't buy my car for the sound system, and once tweaked with it's perfectly acceptable for what it is. The system in your Superb might be (probably is) slightly better, with more sound proofing - I know the Superb is quite a bit more substantial than the Octavia inside. Ultimately, you're in a metal box travelling down a bumpy road. Without having the sound proofing and interior quality of a higher end car, any audio system is going to have its work cut out.

Ehhhh... I personally haven't had any experience with EBC, as I decided to go for Ferodo. Anything from Pagid/Mintex/Ferodo is worth a punt IMO. Lots of people love EBC too, mind. Be careful with Brembo stuff - you want OEM Brembo, not the ECP chinese licensed versions. Speaking from experience, they suck. Also bear in mind that, with anything, you have to give to get. The OE pads might not be the best for stopping performance, but they will produce low dust, low noise and will work from cold. many fast road pads need some heat in them, can be noisy and can produce lots of dust. I would run the quote. I don't imagine I'm far off your age, and the renewal price for the 350bhp was a 270% increase over stock power. if you're young, many insurance companies will wash their hands of you if you try doing anything beyond a sunstrip or exhaust tip. The rear drums aren't a problem in themselves, but bear in mind the braking system is designed to be balanced. Drum brakes are excellent, however they are not as powerful as discs. This will have been taken into consideration, so by puttting on some 312mm discs at the front, this may cause problems. I'm not sure about your specific braking system, but from memory the 256mm calipers are pretty tiny. If your master cylinder is optimised to run these (and the tiny amount needed to actuate the drums), you might run into issues with the cylinder. For example, the master cylinder on my vRS is designed to push out X amount of brake fluid to fill the single piston caliper. If I were to whack on a 6 piston monoblock job, as good as it would look, this would need twice the fluid (or more) than the stock caliper, meaning my master cylinder likely wouldn't cope.

Not entirely sure what this adds to the thread... The standard sound system is pretty awful. It's better than my Leon, but in that car I couldn't hear the music over the rattling. That said, the Canton system isn't exactly Burmester! scotchWe've had cars with Bose, B&O and Harmon Kardon. I think the former sounded the best, but it was also the most substantial with the most sound deadening. Scotchlok connectors are brilliant, but AFAIK they are more meant for lower powered applications? XT60/XT90 connectors are very nice for car audio - I prefer them to bullet.

FYI, I maybe wouldn't post my number on a public internet forum. I would suggest getting an admin to remove this post, if you are unable to edit it.

150ps MQB cars have 276mm or 288mm vented at the front. The rear should be 252mm solid. As to where you can find this information - Phone up a main dealer and ask Look on a forum (such as this one) and then deploy the tape measure. There should also be a code on the build sticker in the boot, however if you don't know what you're looking for, this will be pretty useless!

FYI all LED Superb and Octavia cars have that DRL design. Most people think of this when they hear eyelashes -

What would you suggest instead, Pilot Sport Cup 2s? What a strange comment to make. OP has a Rapid with about 120bhp at most. Those tyres are perfectly adequate... @AdamR04 welcome! I see what you mean about the arch gap - I think some lowering springs would sort that out a treat.

It's more that you will have too many adverse effects to make it worth the effort. I could swap my 18" for 21" RS4 wheels, but it just wouldn't look good. Part of me also wants to point out that if it's aesthetics you're after, going to a 19" wheel might make your brakes look pathetic - I know the 18s made my Leon's front brakes (288mm) look a bit weak!

It doesn't... S/S and ACT/CoD is irrelevant to the braking system, and if you look, you'll notice that a coasting car shifts into gear when you apply the brakes.

To answer the original question - yes, 19" wheels on a car designed for 15-17" wheels is too big. You will have an arch gap loss of 34mm and a ride height increase of 34mm, which will cause clearance issues and look stupid. Your speedometer will over-read by 10%, which is completely illegal and an MOT failure. It will, as others have said, overgear the car. This would mean starting in first is like starting in second - probably not great for a little 1.0/1.6. You also can't get any OE 19" wheels in 5x100. Aside from wide, track going 18" 5x100 PCD from Work/Enkei, I can't see any wheels that are even close to what you're suggesting. You would need a 225/30R19, which isn't really available and, even if it was, is once again daft on a car like a Rapid. Increasing to a 19" wheel will also hugely increase the unsprung weight, which will ruin the ride and handling of the car. If the wheels look a bit small in the arches, then get some lowering springs. Converting it into a monster truck won't help!

Calipers, carriers, shields, discs and pads, AFAIK. That's the list from 288 to 312mm, anyway. You also need to tell the ABS you've upgraded the brake size. How are the brakes a limiting factor? The only thing larger brakes will do is give you more heat resistance which, tbh, you shouldn't really need in a car with 120bhp or so. With the best wil in the world, if you're driving a 1.6 little Fabia that hard, you're going to end up in a bush. That aside, have you looked at the insurance for modified brakes? There's a reason my 350bhp vRS is now back to the standard 245! Certainly, 288mm aren't going to do anything some nice pads won't. Are your rears drums?

I can only assume they are installed before that section of the door is plastiwelded onto the card. Mine has a nice chunk on the bottom corner. I used some leather effect vinyl from eBay to cover it up for now. I'll either get it trimmed in alcantara, or replace the card. Skoda want £900, and I haven't been able to find a 3.5 card with the lighting that isn't knackered. I left my windows open in the rain so needed to remove the switches to replace them. For some reason I decided to pull the surround out too, which was a mistake. Future problem.

Good luck. It just pulls out, but getting it back in was impossible. I took a nice chunk out of the door card.