AhmetH

i recommend you to clean whole carburator with regular pump gas and compressed air. in my opinion there is no need for extra agents like carburator cleaners or solvents. you could able to see float assembly in the link. its shown completely disassembled in post #1 picture #1(left piece) also post #2 picture #3 #4 #5 and #7 i'm sorry i can't figure out what you mean with graduating float if you want to measure the amount of fuel in the reservoir when its completely filled you can buy a 50cc injection syringe from pharmacy and connect it to fuel inlet with suitable hose and slowly begin to fill when you feel a considerable resistance probably means that reservoir is full and float cuts the way. i only used compresed air gun for jets and done well, no need for using thin wires or needles etc. after all i didn't hear considerable whistling noise. however during first start i have not mounted air filiter element and its cover, as you know its louder than normal condition and intake suction sound was noticable,maybe it depends on choke butterfly because it was nearly closed position and restricts air suction and caused that whistling.

i also own a LHD 1998 skoda felicia glx with jikov carburator. in Turkey all versions of felicias were sold till 2002. (mpi, spi, carburated , with cat without cat etc.) check out this link. a few months ago i totally dissasembled the carburator and cleaned it. it's written in Turkish, but pictures maybe considerable. komple Jikov karbüratör bak?m? & temizli?i the automatic choke system is very interesting in this engines. if you did not mark the location of choke cap before taking it out it'll be an issue to adjust its location when refiting. If you live in cold climate its possible to have serious stalling problem with wrong adjusted choke at start up, it acts like engine which is runing on 3 cylinders.

yes probably the black box is the transponder for immobiliser.

its very considerable difference let me give another example ; in my family we have another car its 2001 opel vectraB 1.6 elegance (vauxhall vectraB facelift with z16xe coded engine) if i use regular 95 everything is fine but i experianced that 98 octane fuel is more efficent. in my opinion ECU detects knock via KS sensor and make some adjustments in ignition map. believe me it gives at least additional 60km for one full tank. also the noise from hydrolic tappets at very low rpms which i noticed with 95 octane had gone. so dig it with 95 octane it'll be good i think.

maybe it refers to color :confused:

you know its not a exact way to determine octane rating for internal combustion engine just looking its compression ratio, there are some other important details like combustion chamber design and intake system (turbocharge, sc atmospheric) but we re talking about 135L engine so in my opinion this engine can happily run with 92 ~ 95 ocatane. i believe 135 engines combustion chamber desing and dome over the piston allows it to happily combust 92 ~ 95 octane (or even less than 92 with some igniton setting changes :confused:)

In Turkey we have 4 choices.. regular 95 octane pump gas very interesting out of spec 97 octane (they call and sell it 95 octane+ some addetives ) 98 octane and shell v-power racing 100 octane. i used 95 octane for 6 years. now i've LPG conversion kit. i recommend you 95 octane, nonetheless combustion chamber design can handle with 92 octane. it depends on your experience. but in my opinion this engine will achieve better results with 95 octane.

no no i dont think it was changed. i also have a plastic thermostat housing have a look we take engine away last year for changing timing chain and clutch set also up engine mounting bush.(we decide it'll be way too easy to take it away instead of doing step by step )

for engine code you may look up your regeistration papers ? bytheway mine felicia is very early production of face lift versions every plastic bits have a production date stamp 04/98 for example under ash tray there is a stamp says 16/04/1998 for production date. or lay down the back seats you may able to see stamps also.. and also i've sticker says skoda 135 glx which was given us with the car when we bought it in 05/98 my point is im pretty sure it shuold be a skoda 135 engine (1289cc 43kw 58hp)

Cepheuz is it 136 or 135 engine ? it must be a 135 in my opinion with 8,8:1 compression ratio like mine felicia. because 136 engines have higher compression ratio than 135 (different pistons)

probably caused by timing chain. not a big deal in my opinion.

yes its driveshaft(long one) balancing weight.

maybe it sounds wrong but next time i recommend you to use 20w/50 motor oil. there might be some sealing problems in this engine no other reason for this consumption :confused: here in İzmir / Turkey authorized skoda service named "skoda donatim" use that grade oil for my felicia since 1998 (except break in oil which came from factory, i thought it was 15w/40 mineral based)

i'm using LuK clutch set since 2006 no problem whatsoever. clutch set which came from factory is sachs i've noticed it.

sama as in Turkey from left to right engine coolant temp. speedo and odometer thingy and rev counter finally fuel gauge but i am using LPG so its not important for me

there must be a way for fixing this hydrolic thingy :confused:

by the way this rev. range is not suitable in my opinion. notice that on the rev. counter green line is between 2000rpm - 3500rpm if you want to accelerate and pushing hard between 600 ~ 2000 rpm think about your driving style. give it a go this car is not like a turbodiesel or low rpm torque machine.

w190 gerarbox oil :confused: its like honey i think drain it, it may cause serious problems its way too viscous for this car.

i dont know much about MPi felicas, but i think its distributorless ignition controlled by ECU :confused:

what about gearbox oil ? SAE EP80 and 2.4 liter.

dizzy means distributor cap.

There is no engine control unit on carburated felicias

how about engine coolant tempreture gauge at dash ? is it working fine ? if not i'm sure coolant sensor needs inspection. i think it sends information to ECU that engine is cold it needs needs fuel enrichment thus its suffering from overfueling.

look for coolant sensor over the thermostat housing.

I am from Turkey and its a little bit confusing to understand gallon measurment instead of liter. 3.6 gallon petrol = 13,6 liter 25km with a gallon(~3.8 liter) 100km with 4 gallon = 15,4 litre for 100km believe me its twice as much as than the normal value of ~8 liter (in town usage) its obvious that you have a serious problem and your exhaust should be darker (rich mixture) writing in english is harder for me i'm sorry for this i cant express my opinions clearly try to understand me advancing or retarding igniton by turning distributor and listening engine for knocking is not proper way to adjust igniton timing. in your message you said : "...and due to the reset of the valve clearance i can now advance the timing much more without knocks and set the mix at a leaner condition without knock or loss of power..." now valve train "ticking" and engine knocking which basicly depends on fuel octane and ignition timing is different things. You know proper air to fuel ratio setting with carburator is always difficult job. it must done by computer assist, checking CO emisions , Lamda value and adjusting ignition timing with strobe gun same time. doing this job by listening engine sound and experimenting fuel consumption for proper AFR setting always fails at somewhere. As a carburated 98 felicia glx owner from Turkey i recommend you to complete service your car firstly * set valve clearance for 0.20 mm * change oil and oil filter * take extreme care for intake system especially filter and carburator condition * change spark plugs (brisk or bosch) * inspect distributor condition (vacume advance system) * inspect distributor rotor and dizzy cap * inspect HT leads resistance (throw it away and go for new set in my opinion) * inspect engine operating tempreture conditions (cooling system components) after that go for computer adjustment . believe me it'll be different. As a fact of high petrol prices here nearly all carburated cars is running with LPG conversion. I have LPG conversion too. If you are not satisfied look for something like that. in Turkey full overhaul and rebuild a 1.3 skoda engine costs ~1000 YTL(turkish Lira) include new cylinder liners pistons rings and complete new cylinder head with valves and all necessary parts + Mechanics charge check SKOPAR - YEDEK PARÇA so no body cares about consumption like you, we basicly calculate cost for going 1 km i can able to go 1km for ~0,15ytl with LPG (LPG 1 liter = ~1.60ytl)