petertr

I'd never even heard of them till now. Just had a quick read and I think I'd have still gone with the standard ones. I'm a gentle cruiser these days :)

Ever since I bought this car a year ago, I've been unimpressed with the braking. I find myself pressing the pedal far more than I'd expect - it doesn't give me a ton of confidence. The seller said they'd recently replaced the front discs - so I guess it was some really cheap stuff that went on due him knowing he was shortly selling the car? Not sure what sizes I'd need, but its the iV 1.4 petrol hybrid model, with 18" wheels. I guess these all have the same brake sizes. Can anyone recommend a good combination of discs and pads to swap in? FWIW, I don't do loads of miles, just a 10mile commute back and forth 3x per week - so performance is more important than durability for me. Thanks!

. Update for anyone who uses an EV energy tariff where the energy company control your charging - such as Octopus IOG. After I updated the car the first time, the API sync was broken. I didn't notice at first, but the Octopus app no longer recognised I'd plugged my car in, so it didn't try to find me a charging slot and the car just kept charging by itself. You need to remove the device (the car) from the Octopus App, and re-add it. And top tip, it asks for Mileage and VIN - get them from the app, the mileage on the app has to match, and it isn't always exactly the same as the mileage on the dashboard!

Set of Crossclimate 3's went on today. That'll make my IV a tank for the winter months, so fannying on with snow and ice like everyone else. Had them on my old Exeo, and I could literally drive around 4x4's that had got stuck.

And now all done. Went without any trouble, thankfully.

All done now. Using the 3 files from here: https://mega.nz/folder/6B1yxYqY#VGP-rXf4CJ5h-xnkEg_hQg USB C Stick in the slot under the screen Open the service menu (ignition on, press the menu button I think it was, the top left one - hold 10+ seconds until it comes up) Then just go through the on screen steps. Takes a while sometimes to realise you need to press something, and sometimes you need to scroll down, but its not too tricky. Then just wait until its done. I had a quick drive after each of the 3 updates just to make sure it didn't throw any codes, but nope, all fine. Even got that OTA update that's been bugging me for months and a message saying it was completed. Happy days.

Managed to get the first in the path on earlier today, looks good so far. Will do the other 2 later.

Can I ask - I'm on 0276 and I have the daily "update" message that apparently needs a FW update to be carried out. Reading this thread, it seems that if I update it manually, some other things will break and I can't fix them? Is that correct, or is there a full fix now? Thanks.

Long Story short, it was just the app N7 Player.

Is there a really simple guide to manually updating the FW on a UK spec 2021 iV L&K?

If that's the app that lets you lock the car, start the heating etc - yes I have that. Always have. Still no OTA update other than this daily UI update one. Is there a way to trigger it to start either in the car or on the app? Have never been to a dealer with this car, its 2021, so hardly under warranty or anything. Have the SOS error too at the moment (and the charger flap fail, which is going to get fixed next week)

I looked into this years ago when I worked night shifts and had countless hours on my hands. Came to the conclusion that Millers Diesel Eco Max or whatever it is called wouldn't hurt, and could well help. Found it was largely the same thing that fuel stations add to their standard fuel to make it their premium version, just that it works out miles cheaper to do it yourself. So yeah, I bought a huge can of the stuff, and added it to all the diesel cars I had from then onwards. No longer own one but gave the leftovers to my dad who uses it in his Seat.

I haven't been offered a system update, just daily for that UI update for months. Any way to trigger it to happen?

Still having the issue, assume I'm on an old FW version - is that the fix, updating the FW? Is there a simple guide to doing that?

Hi All Could anyone comment on their experience with using the Remote app to cool their car remotely? For me, it seems to work, but not especially well. Its possible that its better when I have the car connected to a charger vs not connected at all, which is something I'd need to test a little bit more now I'm mindful of it. I'm going to the car in a few mins, and I kicked it off 15mins ago, so I'll see how it feels this time and start to take more notice in future. Also, is anyone else getting quite regular System Updates at the moment? I seem to get them every few days! I've been watching them complete by opening them in the notifications panel, where you can see the progress. But still seems to be ever more a few days later. (Its a 2021 iV L&K)

Slightly happier to hear its not just me! Although sadly I've tried the pressing pause thing, no joy I'm afraid.

Driving me mad! I play music with N7 player through my android auto. About 75% of the time when I stop the car, the music plays until I open my door, and then a few seconds later I notice that its playing on my phone speaker. I've never had this issue before, and nobody else seems have any idea what's causing it. Any suggestions? Its really annoying!

2 complete different problems unfortunately. Took a day to diagnose, then order the part which took 3 days to come. Then it was fitted and tested - which worked, but didn't clear the fault. So had to strip the rear end, to get into the guts of the traction battery system, see if it could be fixed - couldn't - ordered another part, fitted. But yeah, was doubly frustrating. Imagine it would have cost more at a dealers, although might have been quicker.

Final update (hopefully) to close the loop on this. Root cause: Coolant matrix failed and leaked AirCon gas into the EV Coolant Fluid. Had to replace the matrix and replace all gas & fluids to get that system right. However the EV coolant sensor continued to report 80C, meaning it was broken - which meant stripping out that pipe and replacing it. Had really hoped it would be a single fault, but I guess I got unlucky. All told, came to about £2,400 at a EV specialist garage in the north east of England (won't name names or exact locations on here - but happy to answer PMs if someone needs the name). So that wasn't fun at all. Very very costly and a major pain being without my car for 2 weeks, the very day before I started an office-based job 10 miles from home, after 10 years of working from home - typical!

Just saw a very similar post on the facebook superb iV group, and someone replied that they had this, and Skoda wanted £2300 to replace the pipe that has the sensor it in! He got it done elsewhere for £1300. I'm thinking - is this really that important? As long as coolant is pumping, in that tiny battery pack - that's enough surely for a car that's already done 130k miles. My Nissan Leaf is a pure EV and that doesn't even have a battery coolant system at all! Nevermind a temperature controlled one. Is this a crazy idea? Just code it out?

Update: Battery swap (coded) and a clear of fault codes has helped somewhat. Now, only the Hybrid Coolant Temp sensor error remains. Went to a VAG specialist garage today, and they've told me the sensor is in the coolant tube and they can't fix it - main dealer is their recommendation. Not ideal!

Ever get closer to this? I was surprised it wasn't easy to get info, like with the Nissan Leaf's "LeafSpy" app, which is a doddle to use and gives you all the info you'd ever want for a tenner (one time purchase)

Hi Everyone, Trying to get a feel for what might be wrong here before I book it into a garage. Last week, my 2021 L&K iV popped a yellow triangle with a Hybrid system failure warning. Oddly, turning the car off and back on cleared it - for the first 3-4 days, and now it will go away if I'm lucky, but not always. The car still drives on pure EV mode anyway though. I checked the codes this morning, and there are 3 - all for Temp sensor issues, one for an air intake, one for the turbo and one for the Hybrid (P2D2B was the code for that one). All temp sensors - all saying reading high/low. I think its unlikely 3 separate things have broken at once, so I'm guessing there's a common element in play - either a single sensor chip does all of them and its broken, or they are all wired somehow together and there's a break or bad connection. Does that sound about right? Anyone got any thoughts please? Thanks!

. One more update. Seems the issue is catching... A Kia EV6 Owner Just Fixed A Mistake Kia Never Knew It Made - Autoblog https://share.google/Iv4FRikFxhERKnfYu

Update from me and my 2021 L&K iV My plug didn't have those lugs on it. It could be freely fitted either way, and there was only a minor difference in each direction. We had to switch it 4-5 times to decide which was best, it certainly wasn't an "instantly amazing" thing. However, I think changed the actual settings on the screen to match the first post, and moving the focus to the front seems to have made a massive difference. I don't know how OP came up with that idea, but changing from back to front makes such a difference to the sound, its really surprising.