pikpilot

I agree with the comment above that you may have put a fuse back in the wrong slot. To get an indication of which one, please list here everything else that is not working. Try everything, including accessories.

I have hads a few "funnies" with the convenience module so try my trick which has always worked (except one time). Remove the negative lead from the battery; wait a few minutes; reconnect the battery; reset the time clock; reset the limits on the window lifts. Next time you drive the car the fault light for the power steering will go out. You will also have had a reset to zero on the display for trip, long term mpg etc.

Skoda could do it from the VIN but check again that you do not have a silver/white sticky label near the spare wheel well like this: The PAINT NO. is a CODE. The example above is two tone car so has two paint codes.

Here is a top view of my 1.6 tdi engine. The pipe in question does indeed connect to the place suggested in Wino's picture above. The pipe is the one to the left of the rusty lump, running from the back down to the horizontal plastic pipe.

A quick update. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it after five minutes with no change to the problem However, I went out last night and everything worked as expected with full control of illumination from the dash and control panel lighting dimmer. Today I checked again and when the lighting switch is placed in sidelight or main lights positions, the LEDS on the climatronic panel and heater panel are reduced to a very low illumination. So, the climatronic panel and heater controls illumination is dependent on whether the light sensor thinks it is dark outside or not. I first encountered the problem in heavy rain during daylight when I switched on my headlights and wanted to see if the climatronic unit was set to auto (to reduce the humidity) but could not see any LEDs lit. Could anyone check their car please to see if this is a unique problem or not? Thanks

Before I start looking with a multimeter etc I just wondered if anyone has this problem before. 1)With the lights off, the radio and climatronics leds work as expected. 2) Putting the light switch to sidelights or main lights, the climatronics leds go to minimum brightness (almost off) but the speedo etc on the dashboard are at full brightness. Radio is full brightness. Brightness control has no effect. 3) When switching on the lights, the climatronics leds go to dim but only after a fraction of second delay at full brightness. The last line above suggest that the dimming to almost off is software controlled. I did a scan and no faults. I pushed and pulled on the wiring connector to the dimmer control to no effect. My thought now is that the controller is not reading a voltage from the dimmer control. I took out the main lighting switch so I could remove the trim around the dimmer control but nothing seems to unclip. Anyone done this? My next step is maybe disconnect the battery for a short time but I still think the cause is probably a failed dimmer potentiometer. Any comments? Mike

Sounds like it is a manual gearbox. It would help if you could give more details: Year, engine code or type/capacity, mileage to date, confirm manual. On higher mileage manual diesel cars it is usually caused by failure of the double flywheel. If so, change the clutch at the same time.

I don't know if there is synchromesh on reverse gear (unlikely) but the two solutions above (mine and AG Falco) were a necessity on cars produced before early 1980's - and some later ones too. Of course it would be made worse by a clutch needing bleeding (or cable adjustment in the past) but it is just luck whether the two gears stop on top of each other and then won't engage until you use either of the solutions above. Another way is to press down on the clutch pedal and then move the gear lever hard into reverse and then back to neutral a few times. It will often cause one gear to move a fraction so at next attempt it will engage.

The headlight washers have a seperate high pressure pump. The front and rear jets share the same pump/motor. As a first step, pull the washer pump from the washer bottle and check on the bench with a 12v supply. Chances are it has failed. If not then you need to find what controls it.

The reason the digital speed display is in km/hr is it is a work around as uk cars must show mph and km/h. They chose do it this way I suspect as it is cheaper (they already had the display) than dual markings on the speedo.

High oil consumption is common on the 1.8. Which engine do you have? There is a sticky thread above about 1.8 engine failures. Alternatively your light is coming on due to low oil pressure. On high mileage cars be caused by a clogged oil strainer in the sump but almost always a diesel engine problem, not petrol.

In your comparison of air flows, did you set the same fan speed manually both times? For example manually set fan speed at 3/4 of max. The climatronic system usually reduces the fan speed when switching back from recirculation in order to set the correct cabin temperature.

As Jevpls above PLUS battery needs recharging for multiple reasons, including a battery nearing end of life.

Rings a bell; ask them both if they have fixed a fault like yours - leds on Octavia 2 instrument panel.

There are companies that will repair your instrument panel, one in particular in your area that was mentioned on here. Make a few searches or perhaps someone will come back here with a link.

Copied from my driver's handbook pdf version: Bulb - Overview Front headlight Halogen headlight Xenon headlight Low beam H7 D1S Main beam H1 Parking lights W5W/W5W BL Daylight driving lights PY21W SLL/LEDa) [Remainder of list deleted] However, that may be wrong if Y means yellow as I suspect now you have mentioned it. It is supposed to be a long life version in white. So I guess it should be P21W SLL? Just found this 2010 post on here which confirms things.

I have had a lot of experience with intermittent DRL. With the vibration, the centre contact of the bulb (which is made of solder) is fretted away until the spring contact no longer touches. The fix is to use a soldering iron to build up the centre contact of the bulb to as new. The picture below shows how the centre contact was worn away until it no longer touched the other sprung contact. If you replace the bulb, then make sure it is a PY21W as these have a thicker filament to avoid vibration failure of the filament.

Does the air get very cold when you dial both temperature knobs to LO when on AUTO? The fact that the noise disappears when when you press ECO (which switches off the air con) suggests the noises are due to low gas in the system. See suggestions by MicMac above.

Poor starting when hot is usually caused by a failing battery. How old is yours? The design of the engine requires a fast cranking speed when hot. When cold, this requirement is overridden in software. A tired starter motor will also give a slow cranking speed.

Lots of information and videos on line for your version. This one is not in english but shows the actions to do a self check and flaps reset. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_5QOPjT5y0 This video shows how to do a full manual diagnostics check using the left temp control for menu and right temp check for submenu. The results are shown on the right display. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17CYAZ8IpG8 If you make a search you should be able to find the menu/submenu and data meaning in chart form but these do change slightly between model years and other VAG variants. Mostly they are for VW cars. In case you don't have a driver's manual here it is https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Octavia_1Z/11-2008/Manual/Octavia/A5_Octavia_OwnersManual.pdf?_ga=2.118841418.256033643.1595111588-5915bbbf-97d9-46f3-aac1-51d9fb113c0e Page 111 gives details of how to use the Climatronic system.

You mentioned you have climate control. Climate control also controls humidity, even on hot damp days and rainy days when you would otherwise have "steamed up" windows. It does this by cooling the incoming air via the air conditioning. High water vapour is condensed out and the water drained away. The cooled air is then mixed with hot air to reach the temperature you set on the controls. The advantage of climate control is that you can set your required temperature and the air will always be at a comfortable humidity and temperature. This is a simplified description as it also monitors the sunlight level in the car as well as temperature sensors at different levels. The normal way of switching on climate control is to press the AUTO button. There is also a button to switch off the air-con bat pressing AUTO will switch it on As your is the Elegance trim, I would expect it to have these features. The pollen/input air filter is mounted below the glove box. Undo the two finger screws, slide the filter to the left from under the heater and replace. Whilst there, check around for any mangled dried leaves as these will cause vibration type noises. Flap motor replacement can be difficult and the first thing to do is have a scan as this will tell you which of the many has failed. The most common one to fail is the air recirculation flap and you can check if it is working by switching on recirculation and noting the effect. There are way of using the climate control buttons to 1) exercise and reset all flaps and 2) on some models get indication of faulty parts. However we need to know which variant you have and best way is to post a photo of your control panel. There are many people on this forum who can help.

Just a few points for clarification: You will only get hot air on HI if the engine temp is up to 90C on the display. Was your engine hot when you were checking? Noises from the blower are often an indication of crud getting into the blower from the air intake. When was the cabin pollen filter last changed? Is the air conditioning also not working? If so, then you may have a failed air flap as this will also make noises from its motor if its gear has stripped - known problem. Finally, if possible get a scan made and report the error codes.

You don't say what year car you have but here is an extract from my 2012 car's handbook that shows the position of the side light bulb in the headlight at A. 2012 models came with DRLs fitted but not commissioned (confusingly called activated in some texts). I used the Carista app to do this and then activated them using the left stalk as shown in the Owner's Manual. (If you don't have one then you can download it from the pinned thread at the top of this forum)

The lamp out sensor is a sensitive to having the correct bulb. The parking/side lights are W3W. Check you have not put in a W5W.

If you can borrow a Haynes Manual (5549) then you will have a set of pictures and instructions. You will also need some larger than usual rivets and riveter to replace the door carrier - or use a different type of fastener.