pikpilot

A key can be damaged by dropping it onto a hard surface. The other more likely way to "fail" is if the key has not been used for a while and it has lost synchronization. Regaining synch varies between models but for my Octavia it says: "If the vehicle cannot be unlocked by actuating the remote control system then it is possible that the code in the key and the control unit in the vehicle are no longer synchronised. This can occur when the buttons on the radio-operated key are actuated a number of times outside of the operative range of the equipment or the battery on the remote control was replaced. This means it is necessary to synchronise the code as follows: › press any button on the remote control key; › pressing of the button means that the door will unlock with the key within 1 minute." For some other VAG vehicles the process (from my poor memory!) is to open the car with the good key, then turn on the ignition and open the driver's window (as a safeguard). Then use the key blade of the "faulty" key to lock and open the driver's door. This will rewrite the faulty key. Note the comment above about having to do this procedure when you change the battery in the key. I have never found it necessary. Look in your driver's handbook as there may be a paragraph about re-synch in the key section of "Using the System"

You said: "I have sometimes heard a loud noise that goes on for some time after the engine is switched off - bit like a fan running, really quite noisy." That could be the electric cooling pump. It comes on after you turn off the engine to give coolant circulation for a short time. I can hear mine in the cabin and outside but is not what I would call noisy.

Yes, the pdf version has links attached to all page numbers shown in the index and text references. Click on a page number in the index and it jumps to that page - in my version anyway. Not checked it on yours.

The emissions fault light is just a summary indicator telling you get a garage to do a diagnostics check to find which of many possible faults caused it to light.

You can reset the service indicator yourself but it sounds like it may be worth getting an oil service anyway.The information below is taken from the Driver's Manual for your model and year. If you don't have a manual, you can download it from here: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Model/Octavia_1Z. Remember to first choose your production year in the drop down box. Resetting Service Interval Display The service interval displays can also be reset as follows by using the reset button 6 Fig. 2 on the trip counter: Switch off the ignition, press the reset button of the trip counter for distance driven and hold it down. Switch the ignition on and release the reset button. Now turn the reset button to the right. The service interval displays are reset. The procedure is different on later models.

The cause is usually someone has put (forced) two CDs in the same slot. There is a how to do it video on here somewhere showing how to take the unit apart to fix stuck discs. Do a search using the search function at the top right or, If unsuccessful, look on YouTube.

Take a look at this thread from pos 2 onwards:-

With a diesel engine, the revs rise to around 1000 rpm as you bring up the clutch pedal and can produce considerable torque at such revs. I use this to reverse up my drive: bring in the clutch as normal without touching the accelerator and the car will start to move even though there a considerable load on the engine due to the hill. It is like having anti-stall fitted as the revs do not reduce. Try this on a petrol engine and the engine will stall. With a petrol engine you have less torque at low revs and the torque rises initially almost linearly with increasing revs. So in the above example, a petrol engine needs the revs to be increased by using the accelerator before you raise the clutch pedal. It is the same on hills. If you let the revs drop too low you are also reducing the torque available; hence the need for more gear changes. With some diesel cars you can stay in fourth gear most of the time in town but you need frequent gear changes in a petrol car. This is a generalisation of course but makes the point. So, use the revs and change to a lower gear earlier and your petrol car will not seem so sluggish - and you have a higher max revs to play with too. At 30 mph you may need to stay in 3rd gear.

I assume you mean you disconnected and then reconnected the battery (with a pause of a few minutes) but the brake lights are now on continuously. Is this what you mean? Does the diagnostic port now work? If you only disconnected the battery for just few seconds, do it again as there is storage in the electronics that needs to be discharged.

I agree with post above if it starts and then cuts out 10 seconds later. This is deliberate when the immobiliser has not received the correct code from the key. As you have both the immobilier problem and lack of connection to the diagnostic port it could be a result of a blown fuse, poor earth connection or failing battery (usually accompanied by various spurious dash warnings). It would be helpful if you could add more car details such as year of manufacture, model (VRS? Diesel? Petrol? engine size?) or best of all your engine code such as CAYC, BMM etc

The following is a list of changes (facelift models) you can make to the windows using the Carista App. VCDS may do more but I doubt it. Ignore references to sunroof. In addition to opening and closing the windows using a long press on the remote or holding the door key at open or close for few seconds, you can do the same with a long press on the open/lock button in the centre of the car (useful on a hot day to dump the hot air by opening all windows simultaneously once you are in the car). I am not clear from your posts whether your long press and key in door is working or not. If not , then this app could program it for you, assuming your 2009 car is a facelift model. I have a facelift model with rain sensor and the windows do not close automatically when it rains. Enable settings for opening/closing windows and sunroof Yes / No Open/close windows and sunroof via long-press on remote Yes / No Open/close windows and sunroof by turning and holding key in door lock Yes / No Open sunroof via long-press on remote Yes / No Close sunroof via long-press on remote Yes / No Sunroof action when opening via remote Slide / Tilt Blink turn signals when done closing windows via remote Yes / No Open only driver's window via long-press on remote Yes / No Allow power window operation after ignition is turned off Yes / No

Have you looked at your cable? Is it a mono or stereo cable? If stereo (at both ends?) then use a multimeter to check it end to end for breaks.

Your main beam problem may be due to incorrect rewiring. In NHS use it may have had the lights wired to another unit to give alternate flashing headlights. In which case you need to connect the lights to the original lighting wiring from the on-board power control unit (early models) or equivalent on face-lift models. In the same vein, 03138 - Input AUX IN Open circuit may be because the radio aux input was connected to a 2 way radio transceiver and the original wiring to the aux input was not reconnected. Fault 01503 - Bulb for high-mount brake light Open circuit/short circuit to B+ similarly may be due to its use for other purposes in the past such flashing with the "blues and twos". Check wiring.

I agree with the comment above that you may have put a fuse back in the wrong slot. To get an indication of which one, please list here everything else that is not working. Try everything, including accessories.

I have hads a few "funnies" with the convenience module so try my trick which has always worked (except one time). Remove the negative lead from the battery; wait a few minutes; reconnect the battery; reset the time clock; reset the limits on the window lifts. Next time you drive the car the fault light for the power steering will go out. You will also have had a reset to zero on the display for trip, long term mpg etc.

Skoda could do it from the VIN but check again that you do not have a silver/white sticky label near the spare wheel well like this: The PAINT NO. is a CODE. The example above is two tone car so has two paint codes.

Here is a top view of my 1.6 tdi engine. The pipe in question does indeed connect to the place suggested in Wino's picture above. The pipe is the one to the left of the rusty lump, running from the back down to the horizontal plastic pipe.

A quick update. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it after five minutes with no change to the problem However, I went out last night and everything worked as expected with full control of illumination from the dash and control panel lighting dimmer. Today I checked again and when the lighting switch is placed in sidelight or main lights positions, the LEDS on the climatronic panel and heater panel are reduced to a very low illumination. So, the climatronic panel and heater controls illumination is dependent on whether the light sensor thinks it is dark outside or not. I first encountered the problem in heavy rain during daylight when I switched on my headlights and wanted to see if the climatronic unit was set to auto (to reduce the humidity) but could not see any LEDs lit. Could anyone check their car please to see if this is a unique problem or not? Thanks

Before I start looking with a multimeter etc I just wondered if anyone has this problem before. 1)With the lights off, the radio and climatronics leds work as expected. 2) Putting the light switch to sidelights or main lights, the climatronics leds go to minimum brightness (almost off) but the speedo etc on the dashboard are at full brightness. Radio is full brightness. Brightness control has no effect. 3) When switching on the lights, the climatronics leds go to dim but only after a fraction of second delay at full brightness. The last line above suggest that the dimming to almost off is software controlled. I did a scan and no faults. I pushed and pulled on the wiring connector to the dimmer control to no effect. My thought now is that the controller is not reading a voltage from the dimmer control. I took out the main lighting switch so I could remove the trim around the dimmer control but nothing seems to unclip. Anyone done this? My next step is maybe disconnect the battery for a short time but I still think the cause is probably a failed dimmer potentiometer. Any comments? Mike