pikpilot

This question has been asked before a few times. The solution is to run a wire from a spare ignition live fuse location (or use a piggy back on an existing fuse) in the end of dashboard fuse box then up the A pillar. Then follow the other wires at the edge of the roof (or over the headlining) and then again follow the other wires down the rear quarter panel to a suitable point near your camera. I guess you could also find a suitable floor route. The rear socket is permanently live on later model and has a larger current rating. Others have a switched live supply and lower rating. Just depends on your model.

They are probably just product identification markings, in the same way that coloured paint markings are used on suspension springs.

Just for reference as the I am not sure the question has been answered, the 1.6Tdi has a Common Rail engine with engine code CAYC.

Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter - 1) at the battery with the ignition off, 2) again with the ignition on, and then repeat 2) at some other point in the car such as the aux power socket [also called the cigar lighter socket]. The flashing display etc occurs when the battery voltage is below 11V. Could be your new battery needs a charge.

I use a cheap ELM diagnostic interface (WiFi) connected to an iPad running Carista to find out which bulb is causing the problem. Never fails.

Also happens with the DRL bulbs. They are a special bulb to resist vibrations breaking the filament, but my experience is that the solder contact pip on the end of the bulb is fretted away by vibration. Result is that as it wears away it makes intermittent contact, resulting in random self fixing warnings of bulb failure. I posted a photo of a fretted bulb in a thread about three years ago. if this your problem, fix it by adding more solder to the end of the bulb. Mine is still working fine but I did both sides while I was at it.

To Ken and my fellow ebiker, the answer is the power of the internet. I copied a comment from an ODB2 codes site https://www.obd-codes.com/p0301 Beware the American internet experts who look knowledgeable.

The first two are misfiring on cylinder 1. The last code shows there is multiple misfiring causing the ECU to shut down fuelling to the faulty cylinder in order to avoid damage to the catalytic converter and or DPF. A quick check on line says "check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors. My guess is that it is a failing coil pack. Get an independent check on the catalytic converter too as it is still under warranty.

And remember to re-align the four segments of the central pin of the socket before trying again (or replace the unit).

A single flick of the stalk only does a continuous intermittent single wipe; i.e. 1 wipe, long pause another wipe another pause and then continues ad nausium. You only get 3/4 wipes if you press and hold the stalk to switch on the washer motor, followed by the above pattern. In your case it suggests that the washer requested (hold the washer switch on for a few seconds) is not being recognised. It is not unknown for stalk switches (on both stalks) to fail through dirty contacts. Do a search on the forum for cleaning stalk switches. Edit Further thought: as yours is an early model it may have the software used on the Mk1 Octavia. This has no repeat function and each single wipe requires a flick of the stalk as you described. Washer function was still the same press and hold.

The throttle pedal is "fly by wire". Although the pedal position sensor has been known to fail, I would first check the connection at the pedal sensor for a loose/dirty connector.

I tried to find my posts on plastic mesh but it seems the links and photos no longer work. So I took a photo. It shows a view through the lower grill. You can see the unobtrusive small black tie wraps used to hold the mesh in place and on the right and lower part of the photo you can the mesh size. It lets through about 90% of the air. No need to add protection to the top grill as stones rarely reach the condenser. The lower part is the same now as when I installed it at ~30k miles ago; and no bent fins! I believe the mesh net was sold for outdoor fish pond or garden use but I could not find the one I used. However, I was surprised how many people sell protector net for car condensers now- including Skoda. I would not buy the Skoda one as it sits tight up against the fins and I am not sure it would work with the bits of concrete I initially found. Do a search

While your at it, consider putting mesh over the air input slats to stop stones hitting the condenser. When I did mine I found many small stones and bigger bits of concrete on the top of the bumper below the condenser. Full details with photos and link to mesh were in many posts around 2015. When completed, you will not notice the mesh unless you look for it.

Thanks for that. It may help someone who wants to dive in for other purposes too. I will check my door seals as they are now nine years old (doesn't time fly?) and it only happened to me this year.

I would be very interested is knowing how this board got wet. Me and others on here have had the problem of random multiple warning lights on the dash after standing overnight through heavy rain. It also caused dim illumination of some warnings such as the turn indication when they should be off. The dim lights could be turned off or swapped to others by simply turning on or off other non related switches.. The fix was simply to leave the windows open for a few hours to dry out the car. From your experience it looks like it was water on that module. Where is mounted?

This is how to get to the LEDs: Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1 (2) (1).pdf For the LEDs, one poster said:- "I only needed to replace the LED’s that illuminated the Rev and Speed needles. I bought these from Rapid Electronics in Colchester: Part Number: 55-2890 Spec: 3528 smd LED 6500K 6.5lm 120deg 30mA 3.1V Once everything was put back together, the new LED’s are about 20% brighter then the old ones and not quite as white. However, because I replaced all the LED’s for the Rev and Speed needles, this difference is not as noticeable. You may be better off getting 5.5lm and 7000K led’s." Others have said that a better colour match could be made with 5000K colour as people who had used 6500K leds reported a touch of blue. Note you need to be proficient and suitably equipped for changing surface mounted devices. The other option is send the display assembly away to a specialist company who will change all (for colour matching) leds for about £150. Search the forum for details if you want to go that route. Note that the digital kms display is there because the speedometer does not have dual markings for MPH and kms and is a legal requirement. However some people have changed the set up of the car's software to fool it into being an Australian model. Can be done with VCDS software. See the forum of that title on this platform.

Does the dashboard brilliance potentiometer on the dashboard work for other lights? If so, the it is more likely failed leds (or their solder joints. I copied the instruction for removing the display and replacing the leds from a thread on here, and sent them to a friend with a similar problem to yours in his Yeti (uses Octavia 2 parts). He needed one white needle light and some reds. He also replaced all leds of the same colour to ensure that all were of the same colour and brightness after the repair. It took him about a day.

What happens if you push on the clutch pedal? Any change?

If the ignition was on then that is option. Carista allows to choose: Enable remote control buttons when ignition is on Yes / No I don't know what happens when the ignition is off but easily tested as pressing the lock button above the gear lever works exactly the same way as the remote.

The only thing that gives those symptoms with no fault code is a sticky vane problem in the turbo. I assume your car is turbo diesel as the is no information in your post. This is a common problem and I suggest you search on here for the many posts (and solutions) and also Google it. The good news is that you can reset the limp mode by turning the engine off and on again when stationary. The problem will come back next time you demand high torque such as when climbing hills or overtaking.

The items I mentioned are controlled electronically and there are no fuses. It is fairly common, with age, for the door controller to receive false signals from failed micro-switches in the door locking mechanism resulting in any or all of: no door indication on the dash, no light on the door card when the door is opened, no puddle lights at the bottom of the exterior mirror. There are two mechanical reasons reported too. One is is a broken wire(s) in the wiring snake that you see when you open the door. It is the rubber tube that connects the door to the body. Peel back the rubber at the body end and check for broken wires in the tube and the connectors. The other mechanical reason is failure of the mirror switch and this has also been reported. I have not done this myself on a Mk2 but it is probably like others in that you can prise it out from the door trim and disconnect the connector (make sure you don't allow the cable fall down inside the door). If you want to buy a replacement, find the part number on the old unit, probably starting 1K. I had to have the door controller replaced on my car and the Skoda garage that did the work forgot to re-program the controller for the door card light initially - and later had to program the controller again as the external mirror puddle light ceased operation after a few weeks. I said check for fault codes as you can probably see now that modern cars are not like older cars which had a supply via a fuse to a switch and a wire out to turn things on. Some multi function switches on the car simply change the resistance seen by a controller when you select a new switch position (and may be the case with the mirror switch, but I have not checked). The function receives its supply via the controller.

Get the faults codes read. The mirror supply is from the controller which also turns on the door card light when the door is open. Do the puddle lights on the bottom of the door mirrors also light when the door is open? They are controlled and powered by the same unit.

Is the door open display on the dash working for both front doors; are the lights near the bottom of the door cards working?

I used a Wynn's cleaner on my Mk1 Octy 1.9L. If is the same product, it goes into the fuel tank and burns away the build up up of deposits that occur on the input side of the turbo that lead to the sticky vanes issue. In fact after I had the turbo replaced some time later, the Skoda dealer put another bottle in the tank at each annual service as a preventative measure. Just check that it is compatible with the modern emissions systems on the Mk 2.

Just a point to remember about self amalgamating tape - it does not stick well to other things, only itself. In industry it is usual to first wrap with pvc electrical tape, then the self amalgamating tape over the top and finally another layer of pvc or similar tape. Each layer is longer than the one before. Gives a long-life waterproof covering.