pikpilot

Amazingly high for item 1. if you mean the chrome effect gear position indicator at the top of the gear change lever (which tends to flake off at the sides and go "dim" as it wears) then I bought genuine new one for 23.93 Euros post paid from Latvia. To replace it you lever up the old one and push in the new. A five minute job. [ https://cars245.com/en/ ] The coolant bottle is cheap and a diy job. The washer bottle also but you do need to create access by removing things or perhaps going in underneath on a lift. Can't really comment on the roof rails but it sounds like there is a large mark up.

Red steering wheel light means the power steering is faulty and won't let you start. Amber is advisory and will allow start. Need to get the diagnostic codes but guessing at a damaged wire or connector; could also be corrosion in the engine bay fusebox or even battery terminals.

What do have plugged in the AUX. Perhaps it need to know there is something there first?

Check again fuse 1 at the end of the dash. It powers the diagnostic port and the fuel pump. If the fuse is ok then see if you can check if one of the "pins" the fuse pushes into is powered. If not then is it an upstream fuse that is blown. Don't have wiring diag to hand so ask on here again an someone will tell which fuse to check next.

As said above, change the battery and then check the alternator is working by checking the battery with your voltmeter. Should be over 14V with the engine running at over 1500rpm. Do this immediately after changing the battery or you will damage the new battery if you over discharge it by driving with no alternator. If the alternator is working I would leave it for a while until you have proof it is failing. With your mileage you are more than half way through its life.

Also a sign of the alternator not charging the battery. Use a voltmeter or multimeter to check the battery volts before starting and again after trying to start. With all the electronics in the car it is sensitive to low battery voltage. Typically it puts up a random range of warning lights on the dash when the voltage is too low. Using an external battery charge to recharge the battery will get you going again for a short time in an emergency. How old is the battery? How many miles has the car done?

Did you check the fuses in the engine bay fusebox?

Fault codes on ABS are stored until cleared

Clutching at straws (pun intended) there is a switch on the clutch pedal too. I Believe it is used to reduce maximum revs during gear changes as well as the obvious one of requiring you to press the clutch pedal during starting. Just a long shot but worth checking for loose or damaged wiring.

Check the abs sensors on each wheel. Using a good diagnostic reader will tell you which one.

I was looking for a link to the handbook for a Mk 3 Fabia but could not find one However I thought this might be useful: Handbook for every Skoda model past and present .......except the Fabia 3 https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Since writing the above, I have found the handbook for Fabia 3 model year 16. Unfortunately it is a bigger file size (33Mb) than the max allowed as an attachment on this forum (10Mb) Anyone wants a copy, please directly email me your request.

It is just physics. It is like when you have an AAA battery that is almost flat. When you read the volts with a meter you notice it reads a lowish voltage but when you then put a load on the battery and read the volts, it shows zero volts. The car and the battery behave the same way. The car can only supply a very small current (the leakage current). When the lamp is switched off you can read something small on your meter but with the bulb in situe this small current is diverted through this the and effectively shorts the source to ground and reads zero volts on a meter.

If you enlarge the image you can see the decimal point, and it reads 4.34V. One of the problems of taking readings with a meter is that the supply to some bulbs, such as the brake/side filament, is pulse width modulated so the same filament can be used for both normal and bright applications (brake and side for example). Using a digital meter can give false readings reading due the way it treats a PWM waveform; using a cheap analogue may give a better reading but not fool proof. The other problem is that when the supply is switched off (which it does when a failed bulb is detected) you are left with the leakage current from the driver circuit. A digital meter such as yours will have a very high input resistance and sees that leakage current as low level voltage - hence your 4.34V. [voltage read is IL x Rin ] Best to check your bulbs using a 12V d.c source such as your 12V Aux socket. Also check the bulb mount assembly connections by taking it off the car and using a continuity checker.

On high mileage engines it can be a sign of blockage of the filter screen on the oil pick up tube in the sump.

The clue is the reset to zero. This happens too when you disconnect the battery so I suggest you have an intermittent 12V feed. I would check fuses for being loose or, more likely, corrosion on the blades and the part the push into.

What happens if you don't press the central lock button? I ask because when you press the remote lock button and hold it to raise the windows, it also locks the same way as the central lock button. [As an aside, pressing and holding the central lock buttons will raise or lower all windows together; useful in summer] Or does your way force it to not set the alarm because the ignition is on? If so can you press the remote instead of leaning in to press the central button, before turning off the ignition and taking out the key? (I often lock my car with the windows half open and the alarm does not go off).

Have you tried another battery? It is not a common fault but I have had experience in hot countries of a battery either going open circuit or one cell failing short when hot.

How much did your local Skoda dealer want? Or is he too far away? Or no-one on Jersey?

New cars now use the R1234yf gas which is flammable (and expensive). Halfords sell it as a diy recharge container but it is marked Extremely flammable gas. There are other hazards too. Google it.

One replaced with a breaker part but be aware there is a huge number of variations depending on model, year and options.

There are a few similar posts on this forum. Thought to be water corrosion initially causing the contacts to run hot. One other poster found corrosion on the other side of the board too in a different location. Other posters replaced the complete assembly at not too bad a price.

I believe a faulty switch on the clutch pedal will also have the same effect of limiting throttle, so check that out at the same time.

You need the stored fault codes but I suspect a faulty pedal position sensor (accelerator pedal is "fly by wire").

If your car does not have have a maxidot display, you can use one of the software option such VCDS. Personally, I use Carista as it offers many other options too. Lastly, you can ask your Skoda dealer to it, at a price!

You can also set the car to unlock the boot when you unlock the doors (and choose whether to just unlock the drivers door or all doors).