Nackuk

Even with the hatchback you have to move the exhaust off I remember right.

It may be best to not ignore this or you will regret it later. If caught wallet enough a good wire brush down, rust test and paint will provide many years of trouble free ownership. Good on the MOT for bringing it up to be checked up now rather than rotting. The spray in the rear underside area can cause considerable but treatable surface rust.

I mean it’s a weird design. You can have the mirrors heating constantly. But why would you want to. Some things are beyond me. I too would rather see them in with the heated rear screen.

Yep this sensor can affect lots of others. What a pain. Good to hear you’ve temporarily put the problem to bed. The sensors are not dear so maybe replace it.

So with a bit of WD40 the glow plugs unscrewed easy enough?

Phil the post about the swirl flaps. Error code P2015 "sensor for intake manifold flap position" fixed with aluminium bracket. - Skoda Superb Mk2 (2008-2015) - BRISKODA

For the 2.0tdi cr Yes it does. They aren’t likely to fall to bits though like the **** bmw designers ones do. lol. If you stand in front of the engine and have someone turn the ignition on you will hear them wirl open and closed again. The plastic gear in the motor end stop bends with time meaning they do not fully open calling a fault. You can put an adapter on but for the cost and ease of just change the unit don’t bother with the adapter. The plastic gear is a bad vag design. I have posted about it here if you look. But at least your engine won’t die from them.

If it was the crank or can sensor you’d get a code. I think the immobiliser is not recognizing the key. That will start the car for 15 seconds then turn it off

Always fitted fine.

Is there power steering fluid in to the right level?

I don’t think the cbbb engine has an egr cooler. The valve is at the front of the engine unlike the next engine can’t recall the code cfgb where it does and is it at the back of the engine and used to be problematic and expensive to change. Could just be the oil cooler that’s an issue? If I get a moment I’ll look up the diagram.

Crank shaft sensor is below the oil filter and towards the gaerbox.

Photo of cad shaft sensor next to the pulley

They do have one. Climb into the boot via the back seats. On the lock there is a slot to turn. If I remember right.

My arm failed like this…. At 206k miles

Better view of the arms

Would appear to be this

Take note of the post above, changed my shocks and springs then this happened… Arms are not dear, avs car parts has all the bits,so change the arms and bolts both sides and got realigned. Then renewed the front suspension too.

Hi has anyone got any advice on replacing the lower external door trim please. Mine has decided to flake. What part number? Where to get it? Is it obtainable? Is it easily removable? And how do you replace it. Would appreciate any help to the questions Thankyou

A replacement part is: 3T0810773A The motor part of the mechanism wears over time as it locks and unlocks each time you lock and unlock the car. Either buy cheap of ebay £20 or Horton Skoda sell them online for about £48. To change it you unlock the flap and open. Remove a screw. Remove the fuel cap Pull off the rubber cover surround off. I think there is one more screw to undo. Remove it by sliding it out. I would advise you cut the cables and reconnect them on the old and new one. This a is easier than removing the internal boot trim to get a the awkwardly placed plug and B makes it easier to replace next time if you go for a cheaper unit. Did mine about a month ago.

I don’t know but really? The seats in my mk1 were way better than the mk2 ones. Mk1 were like arm chairs. Mk2 are well just pants in comparison really.

Well number one change the oil in it. Can really help. Takes two litres.

Did you get it fixed? if not I have a lead to sell that works to tell the ecu the egr is working even if it isn’t. As long as your engine code isn’t CBBB, which is the earlier engine with egr at the front of bonnet and not the back.

Yeah I didn't say much there - was on lunch break I guess - sorry It could be an ABS sensor with those lights. A duff battery if it has had a long service light will bring up lots of errors and dash lights too. As above do a VCDS scan and it will pin point it right to which ABS sensor it is.