Redboy

Maybe if you can get them to admit it is the problem? I was told today after pressure testing and no fault found with a 1-2cm drop in water coolant bottle level after it was topped up 2500 miles ago, that "these types of engines use water! " having owned petrol TSI since 2015, that is not my experience. I explained to the technician and he agreed it was a common fault. 'Customer to monitor' so I will monitor..... and then will probably have to go back again.

@jannerofl I presume you have actually checked the oil dipstick and not noticed oil drips under the car? Just because it's not done the mileage to service it, you should. There could be a reason such as low oil level.

I can ease your DSG service worries. My 272 went for a 4 year extended scope service (oil change!) today. I ordered the DSG service - £400, and was pleasantly surprised to return for collection to be told that the DSG service is now 80,000 miles so £400 saved. Sunroof should just be the normal lube on the rails. I still can't see simple way to run a very thin cable down to clear the drain hole & pipe. Fingers crossed it stays clear. On the minus side, my All in One warranty doesn't cover replacing the blocked rear screen wash motor. The clue is water spraying out of the rear camera slot in the boot instead of the screen!

It’s the Skoda All in warranty. I bought it for about £700 after the initial 3 years ran out, which continues into years 4 & 5. This provides 2 years of warranty and Breakdown Recovery, 2 x Annual services and 2 x MOTs. I thought it was a reasonable idea to cover the DSG etc, the same thinking as @Phoenixboy. It won’t cover normal wear and tear items. shock absorbers, brakes etc. The car has to be inspected at a dealer prior to VW Financial Services accepting your cash. The warranty must be taken out within a short period following the inspection for obvious reasons.

The DSG fluid change is a very 4 years or possibly before if it is mileage related. Check the body panels, bonnet, door and wing gaps are even, look at the edges of windows, rubber seals for signs of accident repair and buy a Car Vertical or similar history check. Check the MOT and service history. It should have had an MOT by now. Is it serviced by Skoda or a cheaper one E.g. Halfords? It is very likely to be mostly long life oil and filter changes done periodically, rather than every 10,000 miles/ annually. The DPF should be ok if it’s done long journeys. Look at the front brake discs to see if there’s a big lip on them , I.e. Do they need replacement? Same for the tyres. Are they badly worn or brand new cheap ones? Are the seats & carpets, particularly the driver’s seat edges, DSG gear lever, brake pedal rubber and steering wheel badly scuffed / worn? Ie lots of stop-start city taxi type work. If it’s done mostly motorway miles it should be fine as long as the serviceable items have been replaced. I bought a 3 year old ex-company car with 75000 miles and it ran well. Good luck.

I passed my car licence in 1979 in a tiny Toyota Corolla. Satnav, reverse sensors and parking cameras were a figment of some mad scientists' mind. Roll on to 2015 when I gained a full motorcycle licence via a 4 day Direct Access course. This taught me a heightened sense of self-preservation, appreciation of road conditions, tyre contact patch etc. Riding a motor bike definitely makes you more aware of how blind many car drivers are when overtaking, pulling out of junctions, ignoring prevailing road and weather conditions. The irony is that whilst car technology, BHP, economy, and particularly safety, has improved beyond recognition since the 70's, a lot has deteriorated. Much heavier traffic, resulting in less tolerant drivers. Terrible road surfaces and much more tech inside the cockpit to divert attention away from the road ahead. Additionally safety aids such as ABS, seem to encourage people to drive too close. The current theory test is definitely an improvement, emphasising hazard perception. I know that I would not relish learning to drive a car in 2023.

As long as fluids and filters oil & filter, DSG, haldex and consumables such as brake discs, have been changed regularly, it will be fine. It's 7 years old so depending on mileage, check the shock absorbers don't weep and some suspension bushes may need changing, especially if it's had a hard life, ie driven unsympathetically over sleeping policemen. If you have a sunroof or you may want to check the drain channels are working properly.

@Chris48I think your DSG service is due at the 4 year point.

@rcblur69 You probably know that you need to do some longer runs, taking account of driving style, traffic and seasonal conditions. Your commute is much too short to evaluate a true mpg figure and your engine is barely warm. My commute takes 15-20 minutes to do 10 miles on A roads at 50-60 mph with 1 roundabout to stop at only if the lights are red. The engine oil usually takes 8 miles to reach 80c temperature. I see 30-32 mpg in winter and 35-38 mpg in summer with 40-43 mpg on long motorway runs, cruising at a true 70 mph, as long as there aren't too many delays caused by accidents etc. My 272 uses a little more fuel than my previous TFSI & TSI ranging from 200 to 300 BHP. I think they offer fantastic economy for the performance.

Prices have gone mad. Skodas used to be seen as a brand for cheaper reliable cars. When I bought my MkII Octavia VRS at 6 month old in 2008 for £15K it was a fairly rare , solidly built and fantastic value for the money. I saw a 1.4 Hybrid Superb L& K online with 1000 miles for £53K ! That's twice the price I paid for my 6 month old 272 L&K with 2500 miles in Feb 2020. How can people afford to actually buy cars

It's not rocket science, if you have a fairly traffic-free10-20 mile A road commute, then buy a petrol. Otherwise just get a diesel, particularly as it's getting to be cheaper than petrol. All the cars in my signature block and my current 272 have returned 32-34 Mpg winter 37-42 Mpg summer only because of my commute and motorway type driving.

Put it towards a possible slight raise in insurance premium. Another set of tyres? Mine had the original spark plugs and air filter, returned good mpg. Carbon under the bonnet looks ok, doesn't seem to make a lot of difference at stage 1.

@MO230 Don't waste your money on a different exhaust. It will never sound like a fire breathing V8. Do spend your money on a stage 1 remap, which will provide a very noticeable increase in not only BHP but more importantly useable torque which will transform the car allowing you to overtake single carriageway traffic very safely. The only issue I found on the VRS (which is exacerbated when mapped) is actually putting the power down, particularly from a standing start such as nipping into a gap on a busy roundabout. Once up to 10-+5 mph you can begin to accelerate very rapidly.

Firstly most cars develop faults. Before we panic what’s the failure rate? How was the car driven? I.E. thrashed, towing heavy /overweight loads, remapped, driven poorly…I.E. moving the DSG lever whilst in motion? I am not removing blame from VAG or particularly Skoda, which often seems to take a long time to respond to faults commonly reported on this forum, cam chain tensioner, abs modules and sunroof surround cracking spring to mind. Although I have experienced 2 of those faults, each case required a bit of negotiation with the dealer. Never was there any admission that the problem was indeed common. @johnny cabbage head As for departing roundabouts, if you press the accelerator pedal firmly whilst at a halt, I’m you will be fine, regardless whether manual or DSG, if you are towing a 23 ft caravan, you’ll still need a decent gap to pull out.

Nobody has commented on the fact that Mpg is worse in cold weather at this time of year. 37 Mpg on a run in cold weather is fairly good, traffic conditions and steady driving will aid better Mpg.

There’s a get out clause in the MkIII handbook which states only open the sunroof when it’s 20C + , so if you adhere to the clause, it precludes you from opening the sunroof on a lot of half decent sunny days in the UK. Opening it in very cold weather is obviously not recommended. At least you were able to have it repaired.

@travs I read in my GTI DSG handbook that you shouldn't move the DSG into neutral on the move.....after I had done it a few times.

Update: After confirming my name, address and post code to the same lady co-ordinator who had rung me 15 minutes before. (In case I had moved house in the last 1/4 of an hour) 😁 I was connected through to the repair estimator and said to him it's probably 2-3 hours work,to fit the new mirror, door strip and remove/refit door trim to replace the window. It's booked in and it should be done this Monday coming. Amusingly I was reminded to leave the locking wheel nut with them!! Also for those budding spies... to remove any dash cam....so perhaps you can't see them blasting down the by-pass in it.

I understand and have replaced several mirrors over many years of driving, always very cheaply. The passenger mirror has the same auto dim, blind spot. Normally I would pay from my own pocket but even if I replaced the parts myself, it would still exceed twice the price of my excess. The car is probably still worth private retail 22-24K at today’s inflated prices, so why would I not put it back to the state it was prior to the crazy crow damaging it? The auto dim mirrors are excellent in the dark months, easily coping with the glare of badly adjusted or LED lights particularly when using motorways and dual carriageways

1. The mirror has a blind spot sensor which I may or may not be able to undo then reattach if it's not been broken, this has brought blind spot system warnings on the dash board, so I am not sure if there's a cheaper option. 2. Re the accidental shattering, I don't think it's a good idea to embellish an accident claim. I just want it to look like it did prior to the crow's kamikaze mission.

A suicidal crow took out my drivers door mirror today. I immediately stopped in layby unclipped the smashed glass dangling by a 2 wires and clipped the casing back together and was relieved to find that the motor still works. I intended to repair it myself, touch up a tiny paint chip and pop a fresh mirror glass in. Rang the dealer, good job I was sitting down. Just the mirror glass, £343!! I got home then noticed the 4-5 substantial scratches on the door window glass, which don’t T-cut out costing £124 and a small chip on the decorative bottom strip costing an even more ridiculous £108, all caused by the wing mirror flying backwards and the mirror glass whacking into the drivers door. I have been driving since 1977 and always repairs small issues but I have just claimed and am already in the clutches of the accident repair specialists for what is probably 3 hours work tops. I wonder how much my NCB protection is going to really protect my premium.

Is the 340i streets ahead of the VRS apart from the obvious interior space? Also I wonder how much the hire car bill from the accident management /money making company is adding to the £10K repair cost.

You either stick with it or the dealer will sell it on for a higher price. Skoda UK and VWFS are very difficult to deal with at times, with elite levels of buck passing and avoiding responsibility, leaving the customer to drive the issue along (almost seeming to hope that you lose the will to live) Good luck.

Hopefully that's it or a loose hose. Airlock overheating happened to me once after a BMW specialist replaced the coolant. I returned it immediarely through rush hour traffic. He simply revved it hard for a few seconds and the airlock released. One top hose was cool ....until the airlock went. I was very unimpressed and concerned that it could have caused damage. It seemed ok after that.

Good choice of car @dunc69. I also think the Stinger is great, individual like the early VRS used to be but it’s probably too thirsty for me. Style-wise it’s hard converting from VRS mode 😁I do prefer the style of the 19” wheels on your car. Mine has the 18” and I just replaced the original front Continental Sport Contact tyres at 23k miles with the same ones for £140 each, they grip and are quiet. I fitted new Bosch 864S wipers at £19 a pair yesterday. It is a bit of a barge but you’ll find it more comfortable and relaxing to drive than the VRS and in DCC sport, capable enough to keep up with most non-lunatic drivers. Driven thoughtfully in the summer and journeys over 10 miles, you should see 40 Mpg. Not sure you’re missing much with the sunroof. Whilst mine is great in the summer it has had its faults. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/492468-glass-roof-cracked/page/2/ The sunroof mesh wind deflector (£220) has 2 small vertical splits either due to being open at speed (my fault) or it was done during the sunroof surround repair (not my fault) . Either way I need to replace it. Hopefully the drains won’t block and leak into the car. It’s the best all-round car I have owned for toys, performance and comfort for the price paid. Enjoy!