Golf-Fiend

Could be the MAF sensor has gone off. Genuine one was about £100. Cheaper ones about £45. Ideally you need to get it plugged in to diagnose before throwing cash at it. It could be a simple or cheap fix. Does it use oil? Smoke?

I stand corrected. Why not make it out of the black/grey plastic same as the side trims? If it's paint then in that state only a respray can help. Or a rotorary mop on a drill with lots of t-cut and polish?

Give rubber seal and boot lid where it touches a good clean with hot soapy water. When bone dry use a good Silicone spray/lubricant on a cloth and give it a good dose. It helps it to stop freezing shut in the winter too. Re the water ingress? Dunno. We have old cars. Bungs perish. Seals leak. Aircon not as efficient. Damp weather. Leak from rear screen wash pipe. List is endless but have a good look round. Mines the same and I've checked everything. Just a damp musty smell. I've learned to put up with it. Giving your screen a good clean with a glass cutter like Autoglym glass polish and then wash with soapy water and dry with old newspapers can help reduce the buildup a bit.

I don't believe that to be true. If it was white plastic then some of those scratches are deep enough to reveal the base material. Find a deep one and make it a little deeper with a photo and show us the results.

You'll be lucky to get them shiny! Even if they do it'll only last a couple of weeks until they dull but they should remain darker/black for longer.

No. They are plastic. Rotary polisher and T Cut followed by Autoglym Super Resin Polish. Autoglym Plastic and Rubber Spay lasts 2-3 weeks if applied regularly.

Try the adjustable rubber bump stops on bottom corners of the boot lid. Not heard of the rubber seal deterioration to that extent. Mines 20 years old now.

Price vs Weight vs Application. I think the cast alloy were used for Golf GTi and Audi TT etc.

In my BKD 2.0TDi I won't do 30 or less in 4th gear unless on a slight decline. My engine just doesn't like it. 20mph in 3rd is just about do-able on a flat. Not sure if 8v engines will fare a bit better.

I'd look at VW Spares and GSF as well. e.g. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/Skoda_Octavia_1Z_Facelift_Suspension-Front.php?model=1.6 TDi

I don't think you have a BKD engine. The injectors are under the valve cover so are not seen unless you take the valve cover off. The injectors themselves will always be covered in oil as they run under the two cams. There is a fuel pump on the end of the cyclinder head on the end towards the battery where the fuel is fed in. Didn't think they used the BKD on the Combi variant?

Nice. Very nice!

A flashing Glow Plug light is very likely to be a faulty brake light switch. If you are lucky it's the one under the pedal. It's an easy fix. The other type is on the master cylinder. Done it a few times on the Fabia and Octavia now.

For me it is as I'm going to hospital for cancer treatment starting tomorrow, so crawling around under a car right now is a long way down on my list of priorities!!! You, on the other hand, probably have a good few weeks to do it! Do it. Take some pics. Post them on this thread and encourage me to do it next year!

I've been looking at using Lanoguard for mine. Not got round to doing it yet and now the weather is getting worse it will be yet another thing to put off until the Spring.

Get yours repaired? https://www.autotronics.co.uk/product/1z0920943d-skoda-octavia-ii-2008-2013-instrument-cluster-repair

My drivers door lock microswitch doesn't work. I can't open the boot (trunk) unless I open any other door first. I've gotten used to it now. Worth a try?

There are 3 or 4 limited options here: 1/ Fuel being burnt - needs codes read for faulty sensors and also smell exhaust for unburnt fuel smell and sooty tailpipe. 2/ Fuel leaking - can probably smell it being petrol 3/ Fuel being stolen 4/ Incorrect assumption/measuring by the OP. Elimintate #4 by filling tank to brim. Driving for a week or X miles. Refill tank to brim and work out actual MPG. Edit: brakes binding badly is a possibility. Check each wheel for excessive heat after a drive.

In a way. If the ECU identifies some unevenness it tries to smooth it out by adjusting the injector volume. You can view the log of expected vs actual and that will give an idea of which cylinder is affected. My injector was just 2nd hand, not refurbished in anyway. Just had a mate with a machine to test spray patterns.

I'd say that if it is running right and the fuel economy seems likely then leave well alone. You can check variations in injector volumes in VCDS if you are worried. I had a faulty one in my 2.0TDi BKD PD engine. As they are usually reliable units I took a punt on a 2nd hand one from the 'Bay. Had a mate with an injector tester and it had a good spray pattern so got the garage to fit it for me with new seals etc. It was a while back so can't recall costs but the 2nd hand injector was around £45 vs £450 new!!!

Nope. I worked out the cost of one bottle of fuel additive (Forte) was the equivalent in price to two full tanks of Premium diesel over standard. Just buy a tank of Esso Ultimate or BP Super. Go for long motorway drive and keep revs over 3000 rpm for 10 miles. That'll do more cleaning than an additive.

Engine code and year are useful info to add.

Oh, and delivered a true 61.8mpg on 400 miles drive back (full to full) which is nice. BKD with 119k

1400 Miles and some twisty, bouncy Scottish narrow lanes later and it is still quiet. I can detect a slight groan, but ever so slight. Still got it booked in for a replacement shock to be safe.

So as I'm driving 400 miles to Scotland and back over the next week I thought what's the worst that can happen so I gave the shock a liberal spray of GT85 and under the plastic boot and up towards the top mount etc. Went to get fuel for tomorrow and it appears the car is whisper quiet now and the groan/creak has gone. For the time being. As long as it lasts for the next 12 days I will be happy.