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Golf-Fiend

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Everything posted by Golf-Fiend

  1. Where is your brake pedal switch located? If it is above the pedal then it is a cheap and quick thing to change. I'd start with that. you say you've tested it but I had a similar problem a long time ago and when I was using Cruise Control if my foot so much as brushed the brake pedal it would cancel. Worth a shot?
  2. If it is intermittent i.e. the wiper works for a bit then randomly stops then it is likely the motor/brushes on the way out. Happened to mine. Got a replacement from EuroCP and it has been fine ever since.
  3. You can try some fuel additives. Best is to drive it at high revs for a long time to try and burn off the soot/crud from the turbo. Gently get it up to 3-4000 rpm and hold it there. Basically drive in only 2-3rd gear everywhere keeping revs high. Don’t try and accelerate hard as it will just go into limp mode. Usually it’s a turbo overboost for a clogged variable vane turbo. It’s worth a try and it doesn’t cost much.
  4. I use these guys for a lot of my parts and oils: https://www.vwspares.co.uk/Skoda_Octavia_1Z_Facelift_Filters.php?model=1.4 TSi It explains the change date for the filter.
  5. Did you order a 2nd hand one or new? Where from? I need one too as mine is in a similar state.
  6. As with all retailers it pays to do your research into who currently has the best prices. Sometimes cheapest isn’t always best when it comes to quality and fit.
  7. Diesel or petrol? I got diesel injector o rings from Darkside for a good price.
  8. Whole topic on mudflaps here. Sure you’ll find info and part numbers.
  9. I get most of my spares from AVS spares https://www.vwspares.co.uk As cheap as Eurocarparts and more often OEM quality parts. Cheaper than Euro for vw505/507 oil etc. for mud flaps try your local dealer. They might still be able to get you some.
  10. In my experience Octy’s seem to have a habit of developing sticky brake calipers. Feel the wheels for heat after a drive. Make sure the AC goes nice and cold when it’s on LO. Make sure the ‘lights on’ buzzer works as this can indicate a problem with the drivers door lock. Check inside edges of rear tyres for wear. Can’t think of much else that’s not covered above. Good luck with the purchase.
  11. Update on my Hankook I'cept RS2's - drove a round trip of 840 miles in all sorts of weather and lots of rain and surface water and these tyres were amazing! Didn't skip a beat. Were sure-footed and confidence inspiring even in the deepest puddles on the M-Way. Best thing was they were only 3.5mpg worse than my summer Goodyear EfficientGrip and averaged 54mpg there and back - four adults and luggage. What's not to like?
  12. Where are you paying £1100 for timing belt, rear brakes and console bushes!!?? Sounds way too much to me.
  13. Not sure if this helps but some cars suffered from a horrible humming noise coming from the rear window quarter lights. Mine suffered from it after a dent was repaired and the bodyshop hadn't seated the rubber trim properly. It was immediately noticeable from about 15-20mph so I turned the car around and took it back for them to fix. It was hard to tell where the noise came from. There were lots of threads about this problem on the forum in about 2010-2012. One fix was to put an old numberplate in the windown channel when the rear window was down and to give it a good thump with a mallet. Edit:
  14. Hi. Might be worth dropping the guys at Darkside Developments an email. They seem to get some crazy power figures out of Diesels https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/
  15. If K&N really knackered engines there would be a whole string of lawsuits siting them. Fit it. Forget it. If you have the cleaning solution and the oil then use it. If not then just buy a paper panel next time and sling the K&N or just sell it on FB Marketplace. You'll probably make a profit. A paper Mann Filter is £10 from Eurocarparts. K&N type filters only really suit high-flow/high revving petrol engines, and only then it is marginal.
  16. Or just fold rear seat back down. However, locking kids in the boot is much more fun, however this might be illegal in several countries
  17. It's a horrible job, one I wish I had never started. I used MrMuscle oven cleaner and various brushes. Ruined a reasonable pair of jeans, a nice T-shirt and a jumper plus my gardening shoes. Also had to paint a wall afterwards. Ruined a nearby golfing umbrella too. Don't do it. It made not a jot of difference. Mine was a 2.0 BKD engine so a little revvier than the BXE.
  18. The ASY engine code is a non-turbo SDi engine so very different from a BXE. Only 64 bhp and fitted to Fabias I believe. Wife had one. Very agricultural.
  19. Remove the undertray for a start. You'll never tell with that on. Clean the area under the engine where the oil is. Old rags/towels and Screwfix's own degreaser is excellent and cheap for this. You'll need axle stands or ramps to get underneath though. When clean put sheet of cardboard underneath as you have done and examine for drips. However from your middle pic it does look like the rocker cover, but that is a lot of oil you have on that cardboard. Just keep that area clean and examine regularly until you pinpoint it. If it really is the rocker cover I'd be inclined to look for another mechanic.
  20. Check for binding brakes as well. Have a feel of each wheel for heat after a drive. This can have a massive effect on economy if they are binding. Edit: Also check tyre pressures. In this cold weather they drop significantly, so check and top up as required.
  21. I'd start with your first fault code as this could cause any number of electrical issues that may or may not be related to your heating system flap motors not working as they should. Then work through your list. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 then http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01273
  22. I'd say that this is far more urgent than the aircon - "The brakes seem slow and sloppy the brake pad light, TCS/ESP, ABS, ASR button are all illuminated when car is on." Search on Ross Tech for your codes and possible solutions. https://www.ross-tech.com/
  23. From what I have read on any forum is DO NOT BUY CHEAP CLUTCHES.....EVER!!! Sach or Luk only and only from reputable dealers like Eurocarparts or GSF
  24. I’d say that looks milky to me. The only way to tell for sure is to get them out and clean them. You’ve nothing to lose apart from a few hours of your time and maybe your sanity!
  25. That looks fine. It’s best to look at it with the headlights on and from a side angle. If it’s milky you’ll soon see it. The FL headlights look a lot easier to clean the front of the lens than my older model.

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