allytech

lol @ mechs dont like them, get it bled out properly and it should be ok as usually if its been damaged you wont have any kind of pedal, dont go back to them, find a local vag specialist and explain to them whats happened

Thats called comfort control lol, its supposed to do that so that on hot days you can air the car quickly before you get in !

They shouldnt really be bleeding the brakes unless with a pressure bleeder, it can and has caused master cylinders to fail

Thats not great, as a rough guide we would do all that work inc the water pump for around £350, thats using genuine skoda parts too !

Could be anything dude, check all your brake lights work though, if a bulb goes, 9 times out of 10 it ll put the light on due to the way the brake light switch works

The unit18 200sx is booked on this, pastyboy i insist you book yourself on asap, it ll be like a realistic forza3 battle lol,

Your fault is the first probe dude, swap it out for a new one, and i think you ll find problem solved, sometimes removing them causes the cel inside to crack or break which leads to failure, we ve put plenty of de cats on with no fault code issues

No i do not want it, and frankly your blatant acheivement hunting offends me

You need to run the motor through basic settings if you ve not done that already, other wise you have the motor fitting in the incorrect position, 255 means it cant determine where it is, which in turn means the above

Easy tiger, i ll not bother trying to help in the future then eh? the OP may not have known they are easy to replace like yoursel f?????? As for the warranty they wont cover it unless you make a real fuss with customer services

Watch this space

If its a skoda extended warranty they ll more than likely not pay out unfortunately , they should be relatively cheap to replace in any case .6 to replace both iirc

It would fit but not work the cruise control iirc

Sounds very much like an immobiliser issue, try getting the keys re coded to the control unit, other possibilty could be a broken can bus wire to the engine control unit, do you have the standard head unit in the car ?

I ve replied using my 12 years experience as a skoda technician (last 3 as master tech) and my time running unit18 and in that time i ve replaced a huge amount of throttle bodys, it may not turn out to be the cause of the problem in this case but it is however very likely, i really wouldnt rely on forum diagnostics too much

Indeed i do, you need to check all of them with a multimeter, as it wont be listed in the owners manual

Check the throttle body fuse, cant remember the location though, if its not that it ll be the throttle body its self

usually because the exhaust wheel jams into the housing not allowing exhaust gas out therefore stalling the engine

We can service it if you like, we are near wellingborough so a bit of a trek though, email me for a quote if you like [email protected]

The reason i had it done this way is because firstly it has less power than a custom remap and from the guys i asked on here many said that after thay had the car re mapped they had to have the clutch done Secondly i will be using this PD130 to build a 4x4 diesel VRs and will be getting the remap done again after ive had the engine rebuilt including a new turbo larger intercooler and a multi plate clutch so im hoping it will be around the 240 mark! I used to build and re map BMW'smainly m3's so i understand it all but it just seamed for what i wanted a cheap generic map was ideal! Fair enough apart from a custom map (by us anyway) is just that, so if you wanted a low boost clutch friendly map, thats exactly what you get

Theres absolutely no reason for the intercooler to be replaced, the only thing they need to do is remove all boost hoses and the cooler and blast them out with a high pressure air line, in fact there used to be a bulletin on elsa which said exactly that

Basically because the quality of lpg varies so much an lpg experienced mapper would use less advance to make sure there is no pinking/knocking under load on pap quality stuff. All of the "race experience" cars at bedford autodrome use lpg with independent (motech or similar) management and from memory they only make a couple of horsepower over what they were making on petrol

It usually loses power, but you never know i suppose

Not any garage, garages that a. have the tool to remove it safely and b. know how to locate it back into the head properly (it has to be inexactly the correct position for fuel to flow through the head into the injector, And really the cam should be removed and clearances checked afterwards