Yetiflute

I now only do short runs other than two annual holiday very long runs and I’ve studied the situation carefully with the help of the Android app. The short runs cause more frequent regeneration of the dpf which I strongly advise one does keep driving until complete if possible - I always do - with one recent exception. My short runs cause a fairly frequent regeneration of about every 200 miles. On my infrequent long runs (over 100 miles and back the regeneration frequency increases to up to about 450 miles. In either case the condition of the filter - residual ash etc after regeneration is the same. So short runs do not cause any permanent clogging of the dpf any more than long runs - just more frequent regeneration. My fear is for anyone who only does very short runs and are also perhaps not aware of and perhaps never allow a regeneration to complete. In those extreme conditions there may indeed be a premature dpf clogging problem. My observations using the App live during driving show that increased speeds/revs do nothing to provoke or enhance a normal regeneration cycle when it happens. I found that extreme revs can provoke a small amount of regeneration which stops at lower revs. These high revs were way above motorway driving speeds in a lower gear and not really worth bringing into the equation.

I don’t think one gets passive regeneration at all unless one uses extreme revs - as I discovered while playing with my app. Certainly not possible with normal motorway driving. Like you I normally get 200 miles between regenerations with my motoring being mainly short journeys. However on a long journey to Isle of Mull and back the regeneration interval was 475 miles. I put this down simply to the lesser production of soot on the long journey. Current hot weather not affected my now normal 200 mile interval.

Yep - I paid £249 for my Yetis first (variable) service at 12500 miles and 20 months old. I get my (very) local very competent mechanic to do oil/filter change at half way point (10 months) and he charges less than £100. I want the dealer “stamp” to be available during warranty but it is unlikely I will continue with that after 3 years old which means I may not need another main dealer service.

On my device -a carista opd2 connector an orange light is continuous when nothing connected. When connected a blue light flashes intermittently (not regularly. If I remember rightly I had to locate and confirm the Bluetooth device in the settings on my phone before anything connected

You need an OBD2 scanner (Bluetooth) available from many sources for say £10 (apparently some work better than others) Mine is a relatively expensive carista which I bought for the carista iOS app which is also very useful for managing many car features (digital speedo display and many other options normally adjusted using vcds equipment). You then need to download the VAG app on to an android smartphone and I would strongly advise the paid version at £3.60 Very simple indeed to use. Read only - no adjustments possible like the carista app (which does not monitor the dpf). So you could be up and running for about £15 if you have an android phone available.

I have been watching my app nearly continuously for some time now carefully monitoring it as a regen approaches and never had a regen at 18g. It always waits till the line bar on the app is at 100% and the calculated soot loading is then always 24g. Entirely consistent in that way.

Ive been using this app for a month or so and your screen captures look perfectly normal. You will only get a regeneration when the line bar reaches 100% and the soot mass (calculated) reaches about 24g. You can’t force a regeneration until these readings are reached and then it will automatically be triggered by the car Ecu. I found that a small amount of passive regen could be made to take place if driven at ridiculous speeds and/or very high revs but it was an insignificant event which ceased as soon as normal driving resumed ie no noticeable soot consumed. I cannot think why your dpf situation as seen on your screen should be causing limp mode unless you are interrupting several active regens in succession I suggest other factors are at fault. My journeys are now short - hence finding app particularly useful (informative and reassuring) - and a regen takes place every 200 miles. However I’m just back from a trip to Scotland with long fast journeys (650 miles in total) and because these enone stop journeys produce less soot the regen frequency was reduced to about once every 450 miles. All this I consider as normal as are your screen readings which are very similar to mine - and I have the same engine

The link to the post I saw is https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19044&page=2 it is in a post made by zg3409

A good thing about having the VAG-DPF app is that at say 80000 miles you could make a judgement as to whether that act was worthwhile at that stage. Very useful to be able to properly monitor it so easily.

No idea why your app does what you say. I have found something quoted in a VW forum - I cannot verify the absolute truth of this statement but seems to give you a conversion factor :- DPF needs replaced when the volume = 45 grams (380 ml

Sorry for confusion. Above mileage should read 12080

Whoops, too many zeros- won’t let me edit now either !!

I think it relates well to your results with your mileage being double mine

I’m not sure how to export the screenshots off my old Samsung phone now unused except for this app. At 12091 miles the oil ash Reading is 5.1gm and 6%. The oil ash went up from 5gm to 5.1gm before/after regeneration

I bought the fascinating VAG DPF Android app two weeks ago and have had it connected to car all the time since then and have monitored the DPF behaviour on my car. It is a facelift Yeti 150ps Monte Carlo with 120080 miles at the time of the regeneration described below. I though some technophobes might like the results. I started monitoring at 11904 miles with a calculated soot mass of 11.75 grams and oil ash residue of 5 grams and with a distance of 80 miles indicated since last regeneration and an indicated 49% until the next regeneration due at 100% (I discovered) I obtained a screen shot only 1 mile before it started its regeneration (at 12080 miles) with the figures 23.87 grams soot mass. 254 miles since last regeneration, 5 gm ash, and driving time since last regeneration 609 minutes. Immediately after that screen shot the app boinged at me and the regeneration started. Soot mass was just over 24gm. I witnessed dpf temperatures up to 700 degrees max but mainly fluctuating from about 550 to 660 degrees and the soot mass level gradually fell. The regeneration duration was 20 minutes and about 8 miles. There were two stops at traffic lights during the process. I stopped the car 1 mile after it finished and did another screenshot which showed the results 12089 miles (so about 8 miles driven), 5.63 grams soot mass, 5.1 gram ash residue and 23% indicated till next regen (at 100%) The above was an auto active regen (not a forced one due to any warning light). Before this regeneration occurred I did some aggressive high rev driving on a clear dual carriageway and the app went boing and indicated a regeneration. The DPF temperature had reached 375 degrees. This regeneration ceased as soon as I slowed down to normal driving with the dpf temperature dropping. This exercise convinced me that on a long run there would not normally be any passive regeneration unless one drove quite aggressively at high revs/ high speeds - much more so that normal motorway driving in 5th or 6th gear. All the soot mass figures were the indicated calculated ones which are obviously what the car ecu uses. The measured soot mass bears no resemblance ending up with negative values even. Again I understand this to be normal. I drive mostly short journeys now. From what little I have read I think my experiences above show a normal healthy dpf. Sorry about this long speel but hopefully of minor interest to some

My useage profile is similar to above

By chance I’ve just acquired the VAG DPF app and successfully used it today with a previously discarded Android phone. Results show that after 11000 miles of mainly short runs all is very well with my dpf condition etc. I now do mainly short runs rarely getting regular chances to have long runs. I am very aware when an active regen starts and then if necessary always continue driving beyond my intended destination until the regen has finished. One thing that surprised me is how soon after commencing a journey from cold the active regen can be started. Last week I drove 2 miles to collect papers. On setting off back the regen started almost immediately when the engine temp was still quite low - even the water temperature gauge still not fully up. I was half expecting this regen to start soonish as I had covered 200 miles since the last one and that is almost always exactly the distance my car needs. I think, with appropriate awareness and caution, that short journeys do not necessarily cause problems with running a diesel car (my overall preference)

Had no problems with my 150 either. I do a fair number of short runs and get a regen every 200 miles almost exactly (within 5 miles of that figure) and have managed never to interrupt a regen when I notice it happening. My Son’s Superb has exactly the same engine and also does regen every 200 miles on the dot. He does more long runs than me. If on arrival at home I notice a regen then I now know exactly how far down the road to go before turning round and coming home with the regen complete. Interestingly my Son’s Euro6 150ps Superb (17 Reg) does not have adblue. I think they all do now though (??)

I’ve had my winter tyres for about 5 years and this snowy spell is the only time they have come into their own in snow despite living in North of England. However they are on the car all winter when for much of the time the ambient temperatures are such that they perform better within their optimum temperature range which summer tyres might not. They are not on the car just for snow. I also like my tatty steel 16 inch wheels and I’m not bothered much if they rust a little due to salt and perhaps get kerbed if I slide. They are also much more comfortable than 17 inch wheels when running over potholes that have sprung up with this frosty and wet weather. I am content to see my alloys on their storage stand avoiding the pitfalls of winter motoring. Running costs are free once the initial purchase shock is absorbed. I used to change mine myself over spring/autumn but a friendly next door neighbour workshop now does that for me free of charge (looking after elderly neighbours he says). I would like to get some Michelin all weathers (Read super reports for both summer and winter) and might do so this autumn but there are certain advantages in having tatty steel wheels shod with winter tyres in winter.

Took yeti out again yesterday in successful attempt to drive a neighbour to local shop as he was running out of food. Where exiting our cul de sac there is a steepish incline which another neighbour in his large 4x4 could not get up after many attempts. I just drove up, halted to make sure nothing was coming on very snowy main road and just quietly took off again with zero wheel spin. My neighbour now knows all about winter tyres.

Had them for 5 years now and only used in winter - probably only 3000 per year max. No obvious signs of wear so I think quite long lasting

Cheapy Nankang SV - 2 which I find excellent on none snow conditions as well

I took my 4x4 yeti out in proper snow yesterday for the first time. 11 inches here and on our uncleared drive it was actually snow ploughing. Drove 8 miles into Carlisle and back on fully snow covered roads, enjoyed a live screening of a ballet, then returned in even worse conditions. The car never missed a beat. Never any obvious evidence that the 4x4 ever came into play and I thank the winter tyres for all the action - or lack of it. We were the only car on the road except for one police car whose wide eyed occupants observed us going along. The journey included some inclines on which other vehicles had been abandoned and it just drove up them as if it was a normal snow free journey. I took sensible care and did not try to provoke any slippery action.

I used the iPhone/ipad carista app which with suitable Bluetooth device connected to car will change the region to Australia. Very easy to use but not as versatile in total to VCDS but has quite a few useful car setting changes and failed code reading / cancelling. Very useful if no access to true VCDS software.

I have a 150ps adblue Yeti which is not noisy and I think is exceptionally good. Very similar to my previous 170ps none adblue diesel. Some really good bargains around for Yeti diesels. Mine was a very cheap pre-Reg.