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You can get the stereo display to show MPH, if you fancy it! I only found out some while ago and would have had it done from the dealer if I had known!

Be aware, many sellers also show a full door but sell it "Stripped" Of glass, motors, etc. Some cars may have rear speakers and different trim, some have electric rear windows so you may find your self doing just a little more work then you anticipated but its still do-able. Additionally, hatchbacks and estates share a common front door but rears are different or at least, I am lead to believe. (I know fronts are matched).

Might be worth trying but be aware... The actual seller is a Chinese company, despite claims of being in the UK. This might mean quick delivery but may also mean crap comms, instructions and delays in claims if warranty is needed. Just a heads-up!

Righty ho, here goes, just went out again to investigate. it can be disabled! with the unit switched on, press menu and then the top, right hand switch/button/channel selector thing says either aux on or aux off. Cycle this and it goes on or off and if off, the aux is disabled! Logical, really! Press menu, press so aux on is up and then press menu again or I think it goes back to normal after a short while, anyway. Hopefully, this will reinstate your aux function. (Bit long-winded but hopefully clear). Given that there is no aux logo at all, perhaps the port on the rear of the unit is unplugged or perhaps the aux port has a fuse and it is blown. You could also try disconnecting the battery for a while as the units code won't be affected if its the correct one and it does its own test afterward. It may then work, with a little luck.

...Just went to try mine, same unit. Even without anything plugged in to the aux port (Down next to the handbrake and charger/lighter socket), nor with the ignition on so from scratch, jut press the radio on button, when on, press CD once, it switches from radio to CD. Press again and it goes to AUX. This is how it should be and how mine always has been. Obvs, nothing will happen unless you play something through the aux socket but the above setting SHOULD get you there. If not, you have a fault!

...So can Skoda's. Mine is now clocking around 150,000 plus. Any brand can cause issues and overall, Skoda can legitimately claim to have "Happy" Owners. Most vehicles nowadays are quite reliable and much more economic to run then those a few decades ago but that can also still fail and on a forum like this, you will always find more complaints, then praise, I suppose. Very sad to hear the issue is still presenting, though. To be fair, your old battery was just that and is by far the cheapest thing to check first and will almost certainly have wanted to be changed even if the other issue is sorted. Batteries are a common issue, once half worn! I would never think of slipping in a used, reconditioned, cheap branded, etc battery on my Fabia. Stick to Bosch, Varta, and one or two other quality units, for reliability and peace of mind. I think the pumps can fail on the steering side of things and is a straight forward job to swap. Often seen on eBay used or new so may be worth looking at and prior to swapping it out, check its contacts are all clean and not corroded or wet.

That would also have a very subtle snowflake/frost symbol come on but its not really a light, like the temp or management light, etc. I think its next to the fuel gauge.

Staro30, I know you said you have a brand new battery but did you charge it first? I have nearly always spotted a new battery that is supposedly fully charger, to be around 60-70% charged and that, as far as the car is concerned, is half-charged and Fabia's hate semi flat batteries! I now take the precaution of fully charging any new battery, prior to fitting it and won't rely on the car doing it for me. If you think about it, stop start technology prevents the system working at around a 70% battery charge!

As they pop in from behind, are you sure it is not just lying around inside the door? Might be worth your time having a look as you need to do this, to fit a new one, unless you are clever and wedge it through the hole, stuck to something and then pull it back in to place. Probably not worth the trying, TBH.

Bit more nox, bit less co2. I service mine myself and its fairly economical.I use CP4L or ECP usually, depending on codes, etc and usually swap out the oil, air and pollen filter every year or 10,000 miles, along with oil. Did the coolant change a while back as I had a leak and the coolant set me back around £15, for the long life, ready mixed stuff. I occasionally change the fuel filter and pay around £12 for one and it takes just a few mins, no bleeding needed. i change the brake pads and discs as and when, again, quite cheap but paid my local MOT guy to bleed the brakes as I didn't feel competent in doing it and it was when he changed the faulty master cylinder so had to be done anyway! Other basic safety checks, lubing of hinges, etc are better done at home, for free then be charged half the service cost for, in my opinion.

Defy does NOT comply... Even the later mk2 Facelift Greenies, with smaller, upgraded (?) Engines won't comply. As mentioned, The Mayer, bless him, stopped all but the most recent diesels from complying, by setting the limit soon low, as to undercut 90% of all the diesels that were supposed to be saving our lungs, to start with! I think Cheapas hit the right button when he said you must have a petrol as we are talking diesels, here. My 19 year old Yaris passes, no sweat, although I have looked at slightly older ones and for some reason, they do not, despite being exactly the same both in engine and emmisions, etc. I this k it is as they pre-date the regs and so you might JUST be able to prove they comply, pay a fee and get them registered as compliant. I know there was a motorcycle place that had the testing equipment in East London and they charge around £170 to test and certify. (Their reckoning is most can pass, with a little tweak, so its worth it to try). Not sure how you would or could prove a car to be ok-knowing Sad-eek, he will then just remove compliance from the ones that do or change the rules again, come 2025. (I think there are plans to toughen up the regs, hence I will now only buy petrol, not a diesel that will pass at present). Cheapas, I am seriously thinking of the Dacia Sandero Stepway, in Laureate trim. That level has a few niceties that lower ones do not have and the engines are supposedly very reliable, having the same unit as a Renault Clio. (Dacia is owned by Renault, the same as Skoda being owned by VW, so get the back-up from the main dealer). Dacia, by the way, are apparently the only car brand made in Romania, according to one of my old Romanian students. They are doing what Skoda did some years ago and are slowly being recognised as a sturdy, reliable brand, where they were once considered a Hyena Gravy! (Laughing stock). The Sandero Stepway benefits from a little extra styling over the standard model, making it look a little like a 4X4, despite being a small car. The dimensions are quite similar to the Fabia so may be a nice transition for learners. The laureate has 'leccies all round, manual a/c, touch screen sat nav/multi media screen and steering wheel controls for audio, etc. The biggest drawback is they only come in manual (I want that anyway) And they still have those locks, that are separate from the handles, which used to be a lot simpler to break in to so security might be worth checking! (Alarm, perhaps some shielding behind the locks, deadlocks, if not already accounted for). That said, who nicks a Dacia? Or fabia, for that matter! The completely new version, just released this year, BTW, also does have auto as an option but I am expecting the older model to price-drop soon and will most likely pick up a 2107/28 model, which benefitted from a facelift, like the Fabia did in 2010, prior to the MK 3.

I hated the rattle and got used to depressing the clutch, prior to starting up which is now needed on many new cars anyway as they won't start without you doing so! I am now getting used to being able to pop the handbrake on, slip in to neutral and release the clutch, during prolonged stops. (So every junction here in the Smoke)!

...The big irony is that the law governing the use of child seats was based original, purely on speculation that they sounded as if they would be safer!They may well have proved to be but cod science is NOT scientific, it is conjecture and guesswork.

Thats not too bad a price anyway... I think they were cheaper and started to rise, with popularity. Given the time I purchased and average say, 1.5% inflation, along with an extra few % VAT, its probably cheaper! (Cant remember when VAT went from 17.5 to 20%). Good luck, Aeeluo and let us know if you got one and how much they are now!

I would second that. Get the battery charged or replaced and then check. A worn battery will struggle even more, when cold and if it is the original one, fitted from new, you are lucky its still starting at all!

You mention your clutch rattling... Does it do it when in neutral, clutch up? If so, does it stop if you press the clutch or if you raise the revs a little? If so, I think you may be right and they flimped on the job. It was a nuisance so I am glad the new clutch stopped it. Perhaps you should go back to the dealer and ask them to sort it as it was new and should be covered.

I used the Leyton branch, in East London. They were very helpful, polite and done the job to the time they quoted. The guy then went through the mileage intervals with me, saying around a hundred miles under/over was acceptable. As it's a part of the cost, its NOT worth missing! They will almost certainly spot any potential issue and then, have no choice but to repair the repair, if needed! I am indeed an instructor although I have been stopped from working for most of the last year, due to the Covid restrictions.

my apple-ogees, Sep... I slightly mis-read and thought they meant it sometimes fired, sometimes didn't, not sometimes won't turn past accessory that point so as to fire up! I would suggest then, trying to squirt some graphite spray/powder it to the barrel. There were issues many years ago, where barrels become difficult to turn (Had it myself) and needed lubing. I had a little graphite spray that did the trick but couldn't find it again. Subsequently, I found little puffer type squeezy bottles of graphite powder. It seems to be the best thing and is only a few quid so worth a try to see if it helps. BTW, At the time, even my dealer did not know how to cure the issue!

With proof of ownership, a spare key can be obtained from the main dealer. At that age, I am assuming it to be the remote fob so it won't be cheap but still, worth having if you have just purchased the car. You can also often find blank fobs, with internals or even cut keys, swap the blade for one cut to fit and then get a locksmith/key expert to code it for you. Be sure they know the car's system though. This may be more work but it will save a few quid. I'd go main dealer, myself.

Just had my old, worn clutch replaced, after needing doing for an age and, what a difference it makes to the car! The whole car feels lighter, somehow and more drivable. I have had them done before but this seemed a bigger change then usual. The pedal feels lighter, the bite, (Naturally) Lower down and smoother to use. I also had an annoying rattle coming from the area and was worried it was not the clutch but the camshaft or something else as it rattled in neutral, unless the clutch as depressed or the revs raised slightly. Some info suggested it to be the clutch if it settled when pressed, not when raised and that it may be the shaft, my way round. I am very pleased to say the rattle has now been eliminated , so assume it would have been the release bearing or something that comes with a thee part clutch kit! It set me back £308,with a ten quid voucher, from my local Mr.Clutch and has a two year guarantee, which is great as some only provide a one year one. I had my last one there too but this time, the guy gave me paperwork and this had certain mileage dates, to pop back in and have a free check, to make sure all is well. he first being 500 miles and then, I think, 3,000, 6,000 and finally, 12,000 mile intervals. Apparently, they are a drive-in, no booing needed, five minute check but they specify them so as to comply with the warranty. The warranty is available from amy Mr.Clutch outlet and can be used by any potential new owner, so a nice selling point!

The part numbers usually have a slightly different final letter after a mod or after a few years manufacture so usually are fine to swap, in most cases. My guess is the "B" is an older version. (Alphabetically speaking, that makes sense). Tracking as mentioned, may be fine. It may be down to camber but may also be down to tyre choices so check what you have and ask others if they had issues with that brand. If you have mixed brands, get them changed for matching at the very least, left to right on the same axle, preferably on all four wheels. Make sure too, they are fitted to the correct rotation and on the beads properly. A tracking shop may have looked at the measurements but not necessarily at the tyres. If it is really noticeable and not tyre related, you may need the tracking people to actually offset the tracking a little or sort of set it to the outer/inner limits that may counter the pull. A strange route to take and not one to allow any old tracking place to do.

...Not sure that will help, if his key only works sometimes. It will turn on the ignition so accessories come on but not ignite the engine. Ben, make sure your car's battery is fully charged as sometimes a flatfish one won't turn the engine but it has enough juice to look like the dash lights are all on and won't necessarily fade out the dash or click/whirr, etc. it just seems like the car won't start. Its a good starting point, anyway as Fabia's, as I have often mentioned, hate flat or weak batteries.

Do you mean it bleeps when driving? The door warning bleep is only usually on if the for is opened, when the lights are on. Check the wiring in the door loom as a start until someone else can help but it sounds like a fault with the switch, which may be part of the lock/latch mechanism. Have a look also at a lower post, drivers door lock issues, by swedeytodd. Might be useful.

Metallic paint was a £500 option on most Fabia's. A/C was standard on Greenie but climatronic digital was an upgrade. Forgot how much. The Grenline also had an expensive DPF system in the exhaust, altered gearbox ratios, larger under tray and other under car panels, all adding up to a higher purchase but putting it in the lowest (At the time) RFL bracket of £20. The London congestion charge was just lowered though, stopping it from being free for the Greenie, when it came out!

There is only a blue cold/red hot temp light on this car. This is now veery commonplace on modern cars. Most owners don't really need an exact (PAH) Temp gauge as they won't be thrashing the nuts off the car to need one. The light lets you know the engine is warm enough to open up a little, the red, if you have overheated the engine. It will also come on, along with a few peeps, if the coolant is too low. This will not be overheating but just a warning it may do. So, a gauge, in normal use, is just an added distraction.