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You are BOTH correct. Sepulchrave saying the tyre jack will suffice to lift and use stands, UrbanPanzer by saying a trolley jack. The true jack is basic and designed for occasional lifting at the side of the road, etc but the trolley one will be kept at home, not in the boot and will most likely be used when doing your routine work, where the overall power, safety etc will be way over that of the tyre jck, which can be easy to overwhelm. That said, it is strongly advised to ALWAYS use axle stands and don't just rely on ANY jack as if it fails, it kills! If just swapping a tyre, loosen the wheel bolts first, prior to raising the car as trying to do so at the roadside, will almost certainly make the car try to pull off the jack. Use wheel chocs too, if you have them. I have a jack very similar to that Halfords one, I purchases from Argos many years back and it is still in great working order. You can also try Machine mart as they have great tools, often at decent prices and sometimes, you can buy jacks with chocs, as a set. (M.M. have a set of chocs, axle stands and a jack with a case, for around £60. I have chocs and ramps, both from Halfords). The chocs are clever little folding ones but you do need to be sure to lock them open and slip them close to the wheel so they do not close under pressure but they come in a neat little box and take up very little space in the shed. I swear by them. So, a decent jack, axle stands and chocs will make any raising job much safer. Just looked at Halfords and the chocs now have a rubber base to help prevent slip. £8 a pair so great value. Gone a bit off the orig topic there so sorry for that. Stay safe though so we can all chat/argue/agree/disagree for years to come!

1Z0868565F is the part number you require, I believe. It may be the same for other colours though, so specify the black if purchasing. I have seen one in the UK on ebay, for around £40 but I assume postage from here will be greater, if available, to France.I think the seller was in Gravesend, Kent. To be blunt, they are usually only around £20-odd from a main dealer so I am surprised they are selling for so much on ebay, unless they include the alarm sensor part, that you won't need anyway as you will remove your old one and re-fit that in to the replacement sunglass holder. They can also usually be found on aliexpress for varying amounts but the black will be much harder to source. The light grey is anywhere, from around ten quid, new, going up to anything the seller will think someone will pay. I had a genuine light grey one around ten years ago, from the main dealer and they were then, about £16-18. At that time, the dealer's or popular knowledge, did not know if they fitted models of Fabia that did not already have the box, just the blank plate so I had to order and pay, just to try so I took the punt and they fitted perfectly, in just a minute. Pop the old one out, slip the new one in. They then became a popular mod to those who didn't already have one, and the cost went up a bit. Try a main dealer first as I think it will be cheaper anyway. I know my own local dealer was willing to post small bits out once paid for, due to the Covid situation and even had them post me a screen wash filler funnel (Replaces the normal plastic lid), free of postage, for less then a fiver, where eBay sellers wanted between £10 and £15 for the same thing. You may have to pay the postage but it will most likely still beat the price from eBay and it will be brand new, with the two year warranty Skoda provide...

Sounds like you are caught between w rock and a hard place, as they say in America. Given all the issues, I think I would just go back and get them to look at it again or perhaps go elsewhere, get a reputable guy to fix it, filling him/her in on the ins and outs of what happened and ask them for non-biased opinion of whether the first guy bodged the job or you just got unlucky. If budged, ask the new fixer if they would be willing to write this down and then go back to the original guy and ask for some of the cost of repairing the bodge. If just bad luck at least you will have a running car and should not experience further issues. I would have thought it unlikely to cost less then sourcing, buying and changing insurance, etc for a different car and at least you will know it to be sound. As for the MOT, If it is the same as the UK, it will need to pass an emissions test and have no visible smoke. That can only be ascertained by looking for smoke and then testing the emissions on a gas analyser machine so the best bet might be to go to a testing station and ask them just to check for you and pay them just for that check, before committing to a proper test. That will be just between you and the garage so no pass, no fail, just knowledge. Here, (UK) an MOT is around £50 so I recon they will test it for around a tenner. That will most likely go in the testers back pocket, if its a small, local shop.

...Funny, if not too helpful. I assume Fanty111 may have thought others have broke the same part and so may have insight. Unfortunately, you may just have to ask the main dealer. Look the part up on a schematic, if you can find one or if someone finds one for you and look on eBay, too but check dealers prices first as they are often cheaper new, then used!

I got here a little late but Wino was correct. The lowered springs on the Greenie, are to improve the aerodynamics, along with larger under trays/panelling and lower rolling resistance tyres. I personally, would stick with the lowered springs as, after all, it is what most people seem to want to fit anyway, to standard cars. Pop the ar5e up in the air and you will negate and/or worsen the benefit given by them. The Greenie, from new, was one of the higher priced models in the range.

I would still think you need to swap the right hand light as that has the red fog. Fitting a white bulb will make no difference to that, surely. I couldn't look at the link as my computers Safari won't load it. Perhaps I need to try google Chrome and then look up. Ah, hang on, I think he said passenger side from a LHD so that WOULD be the offside, right hand cluster, on proper roads! So, you swap for a LHD right side rear, you then have to wire the reverse bulb up from the nearside, left bulb, across the car to have two reverses... Then you will get two red LED's, (Or red filaments) Fit them in and wire up the left, from the original right and have two of each. I would think you need to drill a hole to take the extra bulb, each side, unless of course, the LHD version already has one. Not too difficult I suppose, if there is space to drill, without causing any damage to the lights internal structure. I have often thought of this approach to old classic car headlights, where some had the whole light as a sealed unit, with the terminals fixed to the rear... Carefully cut a hole fit a more updated bulb holder, seal it in the correct position and then fit a decent bulb inside. Get rid of those poor, dim old lights and fit modern bulbs or even some LED's... Might be slightly illegal but as the car will no longer require an MOT, it can't fail one! A "Normal" bulb should not be an issue anyway.

Travelling distance does sound just a little far to warm up, although that may depend on outside temperature. I am thinking if the garage failed to change a certain part, for any real reason, they firstly should have not undertaken the work, secondly, purchased the equipment to do it as they had started the work or thirdly, advised you of this midway through so as you were aware of this. Returning the car with part of the job not done, is pure negligence. They took the money and ran! I would assume to finish off the job would almost certainly involve removing half of what they supposedly fixed and so I am thinking if they cannot compete the task, you SHOULD be able to make them pay for another garage who can! Above all this, I think you need to go back and tell them they have messed up the job and the car is clearly using too much oil. The unfortunate downside to all this, is that you, for obvious reasons, could not inform them of the issue in "Good time: And since enough time has passed for them to say you should have come back sooner, even though you may well have only traveled a thousand miles or so. They will say you either left the car to rot or something else has happened, unless they are a decent, respectable outfit, which from the onset, does not sound like it! Take the car back, show them evidence of your injury and inability to drive, explain the oil loss issue and suggest they re-do or at the very least, inspect the work they undertook. If they do not co=operate, suggest to them you may seek legal help and perhaps your country's version of trading standards. In the UK, we have what is called Trading Standards office and they help protect the public from people who undertake repairs or sales of items that are substandard. I would think Sweden has the same kind of thing. Most dealers/garages do not want the issue of these trading standards officials poking their noses in as it could cost the dealers fortunes and give them a bad reputation. There is a slight issue with having someone else change the coolant so it might be worth keeping quiet about that, unless they spot it. They will say someone else has tampered and therefor caused the issue. It kind of sounds like you went to a VAG garage but I am unsure if you mean that, a main dealer or someone who specialises in VAG vehicles or if you went to just a "Garage" That repairs cars. A genuine dealer or even a specialist should almost certainly have had the correct tools. I am wondering if they thought the guides had no issue and are fiddly to do, so thought they would rather leave them. If they just said they did not do them as they looked good, again, they would have opened themselves up for trouble as they may still be the issue. It is sometimes noticable that a vehicle uses a little more oil after an overhaul but this should settle down once the work has bedded in. I don't think this is your issue. Gas miles sounds ok, RPM not terrible but that oil MUST be going somewhere!

Not sure about that. I have two remote fobs, three buttons on each to open, lock and pop the tailgate. Then I have a spare valet key, which is just a blade and won't start the car, just open the doors.

I started to do my oil with a vacuum pump via the dipstick. It saved jacking up, removing the under tray, removing the oil drain screw, lowering, letting all the oil drain, fitting a new bolt as the sealing washer as they are fixed to the bolt, jacking back up, re-fitting the under tray, lowering and then swapping the filter and re-filling. It might be just a little easier if the drain bolt is to the rear of the engine, though as that cuts out part of the faff. Just for interest, I use a Pela 6000 pump and the flex bit fits snuggly in to the filler tube but it is worth flowing a little oil down the tube when removing it, to ease it out. Don't push them in too far, either. You will feel the natural resistance. (Done that and had a right PITA getting the tube out, damaging it in the process).

Reminded me of my brother's old Ford Escort, when he locked the door by pushing down the internal pin and shutting the door, prior to realising he left his key in the ignition. He was at a pub restaurant at the time and spotted another Escort so found the driver to ask him to unlock it with his key. Worked easily! Does sound like the barrel may be worn, though. Most modern cars won't suffer this so much as remotes tend to get used but older cars did. You may need to source a new barrel and if done from a main dealer, you can possibly get a proper matched one. This will benefit from giving you a spare key, despite being a little more expensive.

Murdockman, are you saying you only needed to change the nearside light to LHD version and you could wire up two rear revers AND two rear fogs by wiring a feed for both, from the opposite side? Or did you add separate fogs? Reading your post, it sounds like you could have added a reverse to the right/o/s light, so doing as you suggested would then add a fog to the left/n/s. Could you clarify that a little? Thanks.

I think you got what I meant about warranty, then. A trader will offer usually at least 30 days but often more. A private seller will sell without, probably, just say it is working and probably offer a refund if you find it does not but if it fails in a short space of time, unlucky! I think I am correct in saying the fist line of code is the relevant part number. The rest might be batch codes, manufacture years/factory codes or other details that will help dealers find exact matches to parts for say, supply, manufacture faults, etc. Also, the same pumps are used by other VAG vehicles. I think I am also correct in saying the pump changed a little after 2009 and the later ones can be retro-fitted but they have less connectors so the spare plugs may have to be plugged up.

Could be the pump, as mentioned. They are part electric, part hydraulic so rely on two things to work, not just fluid. A second hand unit might solve the issue if you are able to install it, but be sure to get a warranty on it as saving money can cost a fortune! EDIT: Just seen something that mentioned the plugs on these can suffer corrosion so have a look and clean up the electrical contacts before binning the pump.

Thats bizarre! They must have been popular! I recently remember seeing a MK1 Yaris, on something like an 05 plate and it was the pre-facelift version, (Non teardrop headlights, ariel on the front of the roof, etc) That went out of production some time in 03. My guess is it was sold or stored, unregistered for a few extra years. Never seen another like it, though.

Might be well worth giving the area a good clean and then observing where the oil/fluid is coming from. Splashed around, it makes things hard to pinpoint. I think the idea behind a small leak is regular top-ups will keep you going but a gearbox one will be much harder to regularly refill then the engine. If the leak is very slight, you might be able to use one of those additives that promise to stop leaks. I have never gone past using a stop leak method on the coolant system of any car in the past so couldn't advise you on any worthy brand, it is down to recommendation and your personal choice, really. You can get sealants for engine and gearbox leaks, along with diffs, power steering, etc but the best fix is-well, fixing it! It will break eventually, if not remedied.

Not sure really. Best thing is to go to a good Skoda/VW specialist for testing/questioning them about it.

As mentioned, 56mm should be the correct ones. I think mine were either eBay or aliexpress and cost around a fiver the set. The black and silver version, not the older, green ones. I still have them in a box of spares I kept.

My post covered swapping for MOT reasons but that said, I very much doubt it will come to that. Never been failed for having LED's up front or little prismatic things in the Yaris's headlights. Just got an advisery for them every year.

I had one replaced some years back and yes, it was a dash out job. I have heard of people suggesting you can semi remove stuff and struggle but a dealer/good independent would remove the whole lot quicker and perhaps have less chance of breaking anything else. It was around £400-£500, as I recall but that is based around London, where labour charges are most likely higher and done by a very well respected independent VAG repair place, using genuine parts. Been working properly ever since so since the three days of summer will be here soon, it may well be worth getting done. Oh, BTW, the fan its-self was quite a pricey variant, in excess of two hundred quid, if memory serves.

Hi Skywalker07036, I assume you may have a similar issue and as the OP did not place any more messages, I would suggest they sorted the fault/issue. Liking at the pictures and thinking of the job being undertaken, I would think they either managed to score the part back together successfully or replaced the offending part. If they fitted it and it failed again, I am sure they would have said so. If in doubt though, I would suggest fitting a new part as the risk of the part coming adrift again may be more then a new one failing! If the job is worth doing, do it properly!

The advise given was for the belt driven version and the mechanic may be just advising or may have been trying it on. Either way, faith in him/her has been diminished. somewhat. It may just have been advise offered to all and sundry as often, MOT stations suggest tyres, brakes, etc are "Half worn" So need en eye kept on them. (More then that, they won't usually say anything). Now, that may well set alarm bells ringing and many owners may just get them changed for safety reasons. Fine if you are happy with that but half worn, still means half left. I am not suggesting you go down to the full limit but 80% worn would be about the level you want to start pricing up and looking at changing parts. At 55,000 miles, some drivers will still have a few years until belts need changing, others a few weeks/months so the advice, if general, was sound. If specific to your model, they were either uninformed or naughty!

...Also, if they sold it to you like that, has it actually GOT reverse sensors? The previous owner may have swapped bumpers with a used part with the sensors there but never fitted them up. They are not standard issue on this model, I believe. The spanner is usually easy enough to sort so don't fret yet... It does suggest though, that a service is due. I would be more concerned about making sure that has been done and the car has had fresh, correct grade oil and the filter done.

If that is yours, it looks like you have removed the actual logo section, from the actual carrier. The carrier, or wheel centre cap, usually has the logo permanently attached and you just pop the whole thing out, either by taking off the wheel and pushing from the inner side of the wheel or if you can manage, stick something on to the centre cap with hot glue, pull it off and then break the glue seal. (Don't add too much or it'll not come off easy). That will be ok if you are throwing them away. I fitted the newer style logo centre caps to my 2009 Greenline. It looks nicer but I used non-genuine parts for around a fiver and prior to fitting them, took the precaution of giving them a coat of clear lacquer as I already had some so it cost nothing extra. Genuine ons are around that price, per cap!

Nopurge, Is the real difference just the reverse and foglight? You could most likely run a trace wire from each, to the other and have them wired that way! It will put the lights the other way round but its only a small difference, not like the dazzling effect of incorrect fronts. I have heard of people fitting a LHD rear right, for an additional reverse, say and then fit a separate foglight in to the bumper. The same could be done for an extra rear fog and a replacement reverse to the bumpers centre, if you see what I mean. If you really want LED lights, it may be a little work but do-able. If you do the wires cleverly enough, you may just be able to retain the bulb holders that are already there, to swap back in case there is an MOT issue. You will then just slip on your old units, and back to LED's afterwards, in around five mins a side. The only thing about LED's for the Fabia, is some people thought the available units when turned off, look a bit, well, like turds! LOL.

Unfortunately, it could be a number of things so elimination is key, here. Might be a blocked DPF, a duff EGR valve, I even remember a fault when the brake light switch went, caused a funny light which seemed to have no bearing on the issue! Check the brake lights are coming on just to be sure. It may well have been a totally different light but something happened when the switch or a few bulbs went and not just the bulb warning fault! Oh, get the battery fully charged too and be sure it is good.