mrgf

Did they also regass? I think I seem to remember this needing doing when replacing a fan but that might have been the engine fan.

I'd second that. The door loom wires are a particular PITA.

...or use a hot glue gun and re-glue it! My gear stick has the selection diagram etched on to the whole top centre section of the gear stick so its a swap-out or a bodge.

Without sounding too obvious, have you got enough fluid in the reservoir? You may find the rear packs up after the front and so still has fluid, whilst the front can't reach the fluid level. Logically, you would think the rear would stop first but then, most people are lazy enough not to care about the rear working so if it still does and the fronts don't, filling up will remain a priority! After that, perhaps there is a blockage. You can disconnect the little cable that feeds the front jets and see if fluid comes out when operated but be careful not to lose the little connectors retaining clip as they are only plastic so if you drop it somewhere, even a magnet will not help you retrieve it. A new plug will only be a few quid, though.

could also stick it with a little of the stuff they used to call gun- gum (Or dum-dum). Theres a type that won't go hard.

I am unsure if there is a guide in the relevant Haynes manual (Worth having anyway-I always get one for any vehicle I own, if they have one) Offhand but if you do need to change it, be sure to take great care when taking it out and re-fiting as just a simple drop will wreak it and you will end up having to start over. That said, the door will be a lot lighter to remove from the car/re-fit, if the glass is taken out first/re-fitted afterwards. I would suggest putting plenty of cardboard on the floor, along with something like one of those builders/decorators dust covers, folded about 4 times. This will help absorb any impact and help find any bolts/washers, etc you may drop. as the covers are usually white.

If you are sure the rattle is coming from this area, try re-fitting the frame with a little electrical insulating tape going around the inner edge of the frame so as to not bee seen and not cover the clip areas. You may need to apply just a little, say on the corners or go all the way round but this may help. You could also try thin foam tape as basically, you are trying to prevent one component rubbing against another. I must say though, if all the clips are intact and it is fitted properly, I am surprised it is this part causing the offence. You would be surprised just how often dash rattles come down to stuff in either of the glove boxes, or even the door/dash touching or the dash rubbing the chassis, somewhere.

I have also heard mention, the security code way well be inside the stereo unit although it needs removing and careful searching inside, to find it. If its not the original and you still cannot sort it, it may be easier buying a replacement unit, along with its code or bite the bullet and have an upgrade! That SAID, IF IT IS THE ORIGINAL, MAIN DEALERS SHOULD BE ABLE TO EITHER GIVE YOU THE CODE OR AT THE VERY LEAST, RECODE IT FOR YOU AND USUALLY, IT WONT GET LOST IF THE BATTERY IS REMOVED. SURPRISED TO SEE IT HAS TBH. (SORRY FOR BIG LETTERS, COULDN'T CHANGE BACK).

Make sure it retro-fits the older Fabia, though. They most likely have the same aperture ut I wouldn't bet my house on it! Edit... Just looked at these, they seem to go into one of the two cup holders where Skoda (ETC) Have a double larger circle hole, with a smaller central hole, not the hole where the armrest would go. That usually has a rectangular, sunk-in pot, with either a screw or clips, to retain it. (I think its a screw).

...In the meantime, check all the brake lights are working, perhaps all bulbs as its an easy job. If the brakeight switch has failed, no brake lights will come on but the bulbs will work, when tested.

Vibration often causes premature bulb failure, too. Often used to happen on older motorcycles. The shake, rattle, n roll nature gave them a hard life.

It looks like a drain hose but if you say on the right, is your battery not on the left? (Left is always taken from the sitting inside, driving, point of view, not as you open the bonnet and look in the bay) Left, here in the UK, is regarded as "Nearside" As its the side near the kerb, right being the drivers side. I would also look for a matching hose, the opposite side unless I knew it to be a battery drain tube. At that age, I doubt the battery needed a hose as they most likely come sealed.

It should be ok if you take e-Roottoot's advice and be sure to check the car is serviced, etc. They are built to carry up to 5 people so 4 should be ok if you are driving properly. A modern 1.2 will be equivalent to a 20 years ago 2L car and you wouldn't have worried about that doing the job, I doubt. Drive properly, don't thrash it and don't ride the clutch or keep braking all the way down hill, use lower gears instead, so as to not suffer brake fade and you should be good to go.

If the radio was the original one, it should re-code (Or check its own code) And then, after saying "Safe", operate as usual.Yu might need to re=scan the bands but it should work. The DPF is a bit trickier, it may just need the faster drive along a duel carriageway/motorway for a while, until it clears or it may need a forced regen, often costing a few hundred quid! The brakes, some squeal, some don't! Proper use of say, copper slip, behind the pads and along the edges, where the pads meet the callipers, may help but if the brakes are worn, have grooves on the discs, etc, replacing the discs and pads may be the better option. Eurocarparts, carparts4less, etc are usually quite cheap for these, if you use an online code. (Assuming you can sort the work yourself). I found Eicher discs seem to squeal as I usually fit Bosch but had Eicher discs, Bosch pads last time. That may be part of the issue as Bosch on Bosch, what I usually use, don't usually squeal. Never used Eicher before, won't again!

They can make using the handbrake a little tricker, but not impossible... I believe they are standard fitment soon the elegance and on Fabia 3 models, among others. I had to buy and fit mine and they often sell for around £50 on the'Bay. I would just leave it up or pop it in the garage/shed/attic until I sell the car, then offer it to the new owner as a sweeter or even an extra for a few more quid!

Not sure with the VRS but my TDI Greenline has a kind of shut down "Bzzz" Sort of thing happen, a few seconds after turning off. Battery fuse corrosion not good as may cross-wire the system. I don't know of bulbs actually blowing in the switches but a replacement switch, even new from Skoda is not prohibitively expensive. Other, cheaper versions are available but be sure to get green, to match Skoda and not VW red, unless you plan a complete re-swap! I would perhaps buy a cheap eBay switch and try that.

....If the DPF was "Emptied" And coded out, then you replaced it, you would also need to re-apply the software so the car knows it is there again and also have to have e forced regen, as the car will still think it is blocked up. A new DPF being around a thousand quid, are you sure that is what you replaced? A Greenline will have a light to warn you, some cars do not. I think you may have meant you put DPF filter cleaner and if already in limp mode, this won't be enough. It is used PRIOR to limp mode, if at all. That quoted price does sound like the kind of cost of a forced regen or DPF removal, though. Bit costly for the first thing, better deal for the second although if they bodge that, it will cost a fortune to rectify, with a whole new filter, etc. Can you please put in your exact model, so it can be easier for others to advise you.

Heard of batteries going flat due to wiring issues, where the battery just gets drained. Might be faulty earth lead or wires from battery to other bits and bobs. I assume you know the battery is sound, though? That said, it sounds like electrical drain, somewhere. Does the fan stay on at all and not turn off? Is there any sign of water ingress on any electrical circuitry? Unfortunately, its a bit of a landline, hit and miss situation.

No, I understand the bafflement but in my instance, it does seem to have prolonged the interval where the ABS light illuminates again. Might be just luck or might be surging a little boost through the cabling or something or re-setting, as does a new start, the ABS system but it has helped! I do this procedure all without touching the clutch, BTW. Turn off a few seconds, turn the key so as the engine re-starts the car, ABS goes back off and stays off. I am only making a suggestion of trying it as it has sort of slowed down the re-occurance of my own issue and the next stage was to replace the module, on a vehicle I have to sell come October, due to the Ulez one expanding and on top of having just replaced the clutch.

That looks like removal of the whole flap unit... I know when my MOT guy was doing a little work for me, he lopped off the cap in seconds and it was just the opening flap. So quick though, I didn't see how it was done but if need be, I could try asking him.

I was suggesting my suggestion as I have a sometime fault that can flick up the abs quite regularly and then, not at all for some time. It seems that if it does come on and I try this method, it then stays off longer so there was a reasoning behind what I asked, if not a solution. I have had the sensor replaced more then twice and it stayed a =way a while but returned and then took it to a reputable specialist, who told it it was the sensor, despite my telling them I had swapped it out twice, (Thats three sensors) Only to have the fault return. They charged me around £200 to say it WAS but on the route home, up popped the and light. Back again they then said they swapped the bearing from left to right, (Would have just been easier to pop a new left one in) But the fault still showed, they then did a continuity test, nothing showed, leaving them to say it could only be the abs pump/module (£1000 new, £300 recon). In the coldest of weather, the abs light stayed off, coming back on again recently and for a while, quite frequently but now, just on the odd occasion, all with no extra work undertaken since! I find if it comes on, I switch off for a few seconds, turn the key, the car fires up (Bump start) Then the abs light stays off for sometimes, quite a time. (Weeks, rather then hours). So, like I said, have you had a little try? Unless you shunt in to another motorist, what have you got to lose?

Sadly, sometimes sellers show the whole lot in the pictures but in the text, say the door is "Bare". I have seen a lot of that and in particular, on doors. Engines too, look like they have all the bits and bobs but then are stated as bare units. With doors, mostly the seller removes the glass and the mirror as they are very easy to sell on separately, along with motors etc. I am not suggesting the seller is being sneaky but if the photo shows all the bits, it should include all the bits as it is so easy to not spot the smaller or lower down text, when in a hurry. Its just as easy to photograph the item after stripping, after all!

I was referring to the stereo or at least, the dance unit. Apparently, the display can have MPH enabled, for driving instructors, etc.

That seller has a roof box too, so if you wanted that, try offering them a silly amount to take both parts... Say £90 and you will have a bargain roof box/bars combo to sell on again after using them!

Out of pure curiosity, Narrowboat-Ian, have a try of driving the car so the ABS is on, switch off the key (In a nice safe place) For a few seconds, then turn it on again, so the engine re-starts the car, not the key/starter motor. Then see if the light goes out at least for some time or if it stays on as soon as you turn on again, if you get my drift! Kind of bump-starting the car, after initial driving.