psycholist

You're probably as well off cutting adaptors yourself to fit the speakers you buy. The speakers are riveted into the door, so the rivets need to be drilled out to replace the speakers, which often means that even if you're careful the back of at least one rivet will end up rattling in the door :(. Over time they'll fall out the drain holes in the bottom of the door if they're small enough though.

I had mine done in Sheehy Motors in Naas as part of the deal when I bought the car from them. Make sure the rear parking sensors are disabled when a trailer is connected though (A trailer appears behind the car on the parking sensor screen too). This also means that the ESP knows there's a trailer. Some versions of the towbar fitting don't do this, but Sheehys fitted the correct module without complaint when I found the sensors weren't turning off. A friend of mine who bought a Seat new with a supposedly OEM towbar was asked for €300 extra by his garage to add the module that switches the sensors off with a trailer.

Fully electric. There's a second rack beside the one connected to the steering wheel with an electric motor and pinion on it. The motor is some sort of induction type that doesn't have permanent magnets, so no cogging when you steer without the motor providing assistance. The overload protection is probably just the motor stalling.

The only thing it definitely can't be is a power steering pump. The Superb uses electric steering assistance. No hydraulics to make funny noises and no power consumption while the assistance motor isn't working .

The Mark II Superb gets a sunglasses holder as well as the sunroof - it's so small I've only ever found one pair of sunglasses (Which weren't mine) that would actually fit in it, so they might as well not have bothered. It's much bigger in the Superb III without the sunroof anyway. I haven't seen one with a sunroof yet.

You'll need a 12 point triple square driver to remove the bolts holding the seat and seat belts to the floor of the car. It's a very easy job. The side bolsters come out with another bolt at the bottom of each bolster too. Be warned that the seat backs are surprisingly heavy, so lifting them out takes some strength. If you consider the forces the middle seat belt will apply to the wider part of the seat back in a crash the weight is probably justified...

The interior lights should go out by themselves after about 5 minutes if you leave the car as it is.

It will only work while you're driving below a certain speed, probably 10-15 km/h, but there was a post on here previously where park assist said the car was going too fast regardless of its speed. I can't find the post and I don't remember whether it was resolved unfortunately. Using park assist is painfully slow compared to just parking the car yourself, so you're not missing much. The main reason to have it is because it means the car comes with front and rear parking sensors. The panoramic sunroof should however always be specced on cars with park assist to allow the driver to stick their hands out the sunroof to show passers by they're not steering... :P

If you have electrically folding mirrors then there will be a position for that on the joystick to control the mirrors. If you don't have it you'll have L, 0, R and Mirror heating positions to turn the joystick to, but if you do there will be a 5th position. As far as I know the same memory module that stores the seat position for the electric adjusting seats stores the mirror positions, so you don't get one without the other.

With over 200 000 km on my beige leather interior there's wear evident on the bolster and outer edge of the driver's seat, but I reckon beige shows up less dirt than black, though it depends on what the dirt is. Certainly mud, sand and crumbs show up more on black than beige surfaces. I also like the way on sunny days the beige interior doesn't get as hot, though I'm comparing with the black Octavia, with black fabric seats I had before this. As for colour combinations, I reckon the blue exterior with beige interior and black carpets and 'wood' trim is the nicest colour combination I've seen for the Superb II - part of why I bought that one after seeing a few black interiors and silver cars . I haven't seen the blue option in the Mk3 in the flesh to decide whether it's still the best though.

It sounds like there's an electrical connection problem rather than just a calibration issue as in previous posts. You can get into the mirror by pushing the inside of the mirror glass into the mirror housing and getting your fingers under the outside of the mirror glass and pulling it out until it pops off. Check for any disconnected or rusty looking wires. If that all looks good you'll have to probe the electrical connections to see if power is getting to them. If the indicator isn't working I'm surprised the car isn't giving a failed bulb warning. Sometimes the wires break where they pass from the body of the car into the door across the door hinge, so if nothing is getting to the mirror this might be the problem. The entire mirror can be removed by taking the plastic triangle on the inside of the door off and removing 3 bolts that hold the mirror to the door.

I'd try to load the rear footwell with as much as possible before moving to the boot to keep weight distribution more even. It depends on what exactly you're carrying though. Small 5 kg objects flying around the car during a crash would be the main thing I'd worry about with doing this, but in that sort of situation the parcel shelf isn't likely to present much of an obstacle to them either. Also consider where and for how long the car will be left parked if the contents are worth stealing.

Great news they've gone to 45 profile tyres on the 18" wheels . I'm quite happy with the ride and durability of the 45 profile 17" tyres on my car, so if the 18's are 45 profile and wider than my 225's then you've already got more rubber between you and the road than I do.

Variable servicing keeps track of the number of cold starts and short trips as well, linking it to the predicted oil degradation behaviour too. As I understand it there's no downside to variable intervals provided you service the car when it tells you to. My oil temperature usually stays around 90 degrees, but a bit of pushing on back roads will get it past 100 degrees easily enough.

I'd be happy with KESSY when they deal with the obvious glaring security issues inherent in the current system. If you're getting a DSG box then adaptive cruise control is a fantastic addition (Still probably handy in a manual, but seamless with a DSG. I'd look for ventilated seats (It's the only available option not on my current car that I would like and would use a lot) and ditch the 18" alloys in deference to the condition of a lot of the roads around Ireland. If there's the option for a 240V mains socket in the centre console I'd try for that too.

I'd get an android head unit with built in bluetooth that fits the car instead of paying 2 or 3 times as much for the 10 ish year old Columbus.

I've just pushed them back on for now. Whether this is enough long term remains to be seen, but fingers crossed so far.

I think I've solved the problem at this point as I've seen no further evidence of leaking for the last couple of weeks. After more heavy rain I looked under the rooflining and found a few drops of water running along the outside of one of the drain tubes from the sunroof. From there, while the car was parked pointed uphill, the water was running along the outside of the tube and dripping into the plastic D pillar trim, which directed it to the corner of the boot and then the wheel well. I reached in over the roof lining from the boot opening and pushed the rubber connection between the drain tube and the sunroof pan on a bit further and did the same at the connection at the boot end of the tube, which hopefully has sealed it again. For anyone poking in around the sunroof (And other bits of the car), there was a layer of fabric tape wrapped around the tubing, probably to silence vibration, I've seen it on wiring elsewhere in this and other cars, that the glue had oozed through, which left a very sticky black residue on my hands when I touched it. Cleaning with soap and water had no effect, but it disappeared immediately on contact with brake/clutch cleaner.

I'm missing this light too. I'm not sure how to access it, but hopefully it's a matter of lifting out the ash tray and popping the panel under it. My 12V socket is working, but I the bulb should be on a different fuse to the socket as the socket is rated for 180 W, which would be a totally unsafe power level for the bulb circuit.

There is no rear pad wear indicator I'm aware of. The only sensor for pad wear is in one of the front brake pads. You'll see a wire going to the brake pads on one of the front calipers. It's possible the ABS pump is doing something fancy to track the position of the rear pistons, but I've never heard anyone mention this.

If you get a left hand drive seat/controller/buttons you might be able to do this, but I suspect things will get interesting when two seat memory modules both try to set the wing mirror position because they both think they're the driver's seat...

I'd use the opportunity to get some 17s with decent winter tyres as you can't use the chains until the roads are properly covered in ice/snow they make a significant difference to grip compared to summer tyres once the temperature is under 7 degrees anyway.

On the Octy II the bumper has to come off to get to them (I found this while fitting a towbar to it). They're not as easy to get to from inside the boot. If the Octy II is any guide taking the bumper off is easy enough, but it takes time as you nearly have to strip the whole back of the car to bare bodywork - the boot lining and even the lights have to come off to get at some of the bumper bolts. I plan to go at the vents in my Superb II soon as I suspect they might be allowing water into the boot in very heavy rain, and it looks like the story with access is the same there. I expect not much has changed with the Superb III - they just made everything a little bit nicer .

The good news is Skoda keys are cheaper than other VAG cars even though they all have the same electronics inside. It also means you can get an Audi or Bentley key to work with your car :P...

It's possible it's the vents in the back corners of the boot either not opening or not closing properly. If you're sitting in the car and someone closes a door or especially the boot suddenly and the vents are sealed you'll feel a strong pressure pulse in your ears. If they're working as normal you will also hear them closing a split second after a door/boot has been closed (Noticeable in my Octy II and Superb II anyway). If they're stuck open all the time then the aerodynamics of the car at speed is likely to create the same effect as having a window slightly open, which sounds a lot like what you're experiencing. That's what I'd go checking at this point anyway as it seems to fit the symptoms pretty well. Hopefully something is stuck in one of the vents and it's an easy fix.