silver1011

A lot of people think that in order to tow you need a huge, heavy and powerful car. I'm sure a car like that would make things easier, but it's far from essential. Here is my manual 1.4 TSI 150PS 230Nm Kodiaq towing a 1,400Kg caravan with absolute ease...

I've seen too many number plates with sticky pads fall off during the summer in the heat. Parking sensors, badges, rear wiper, washer nozzle, reversing camera, there are loads of non-symmetrical non-flush components scattered about the rear of the car. A couple of colour coded screw heads aren't going to make much difference. I went for an oversized rear number plate using the pre-drilled threads and plastic number plate bolts. The front bumper has the indents for the dealer to drill the self-tapper screws in to.

@VRS_Dan I'm over on MBClub, a friendly place but not a patch on Briskoda. Skoda owners are a lot closer to motoring normality and are more into function over form. https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/ My affair with Mercedes-Benz was brief, but my W212 was a very good car... COVID meant my annual mileage went from 30,000 miles to around 2,000 miles so my need for a reliable fuel efficient diesel saloon ended. So I replaced it with a 16 year old 3.5 V6 minivan freshly imported from Japan, like you do!

There have been a number of 'TPI's' issued across VAG related to the AdBlue SCR system.

Skoda UK no longer use the disclaimer removing them of their obligations to provide their customers with a product identical to that of the one you ordered when entering into your contract with the retailer. If the heated steering wheel and Alcantara seats were standard when you ordered then that's what you're entitled to. If the retailer isn't able to fulfil their side of your contract (these things happen, component shortages etc.) then you're entitled to exit the contract without being disadvantaged financially. Sometimes the retailer will offer a partial refund if you agree to keep the car. Speak to Skoda UK customer services and ask for the date when the specification changed. If that date is after the date your order was placed onto the system (not necessarily the day you agreed the deal with the retailer) then you're entitled to those features.

I tow a Bailey Jive with a manual 1.4 TSI 150PS. It copes just fine...

4x4 and DSG means diesel, just checking as both the TSI and TDI are 150PS.

Unfortunately it was all a bit Heath Robinson. I lined the mudflaps up on the car and used a pencil to mark where the leading edge of the running boards met the back of the mudflaps. I then used a soldering iron to pierce through the mudflap and simply followed the pencil line. A little messy but the plastic melted in such away that the edges were smooth and rounded (matching the contour of the soldering iron) so it didn't look too bad in the end. I've since invested in a Dremel which came with a large range of cutting attachments, which if in the same position again I'd probably choose over my botch!

The TFR warning could be applicable to any part of the cars exterior, it's simply Skoda being overly cautious knowing that there are varying levels of quality in the TFR's used. If the TFR is excessively acidic or alkaline then if left unrinsed it could tarnish the chrome strip, just like it does the alloy wheel lacquer, chrome window trims and plastic wheel bolt covers. Avoid the £5 roadside hand car washes and you'll be fine using a good quality branded TFR at home. The picture above is my car and the running boards were fitted from new back in 2018. They're unmarked apart from hairline scuffs on the chrome strips where the kids have dragged their shoes over the edge of the boards when getting in and out.

A MY20 1.5 TSI? No thanks, it was slap bang in the middle of VAG's 'Jerk Gate'. Software update or not, chances are it's been thrown back at the dealer. Stick "VW 1.5 TSI engine problems" into Google. By comparison the 1.4 TSI is a peach of an engine, properly developed and not strangled by emissions software and hardware.

It's that time of year boys and girls, here we go again. I've not seen a definitive list yet, does anyone know if it is available anywhere? Someone just mentioned on Facebook that their build date for a UK-bound SE L has been pushed back and they'll now lose out on: - Carpet in the glovebox - Columbus to Amundsen headunit. There's bound to be more. Following on from this thread...

No, they didn't. Cleaning the gauze is not included in the Skoda workshop manual so is never done at franchised main dealers (at least here in the UK). Crazy. I spoke to my preferred dealer (Des Winks in Scarborough) and they agreed that when mine is in for it's first Haldex oil change I can request that the gauze is cleaned. They'll do it as an "extra". Call me cynical but the official brake fluid interval is three years from new, then every two years after that. How does the brake fluid from the factory last an extra 12 months? It isn't just coincidence that Skoda UK's servicing regimes are solely focused on fleet buyers looking to minimise running costs across a typical fleet cars three years on the books. This is one of the reasons why I'm a fan of the fixed service intervals for private purchases on vehicles to be owned well beyond the manufacturers warranty period.

I wonder why they used a vRS as the mule, hasn't it been discontinued, or is it just the bi-turbo diesel engine that's gone the distance?

Some DPF equipped VAG vehicles have a catalyst located immediately prior to the DPF to help with heat generation, mostly on vehicles where the DPF has been retrofitted part way through the cars life-cycle and thus wasn't originally developed with a DPF in mind, or where restrictions meant the DPF had to be located further away from the engine than would be ideal for optimum heat generation. The increased fuel injection period is used in conjunction with the catalyst.

Is that your Skoda umbrella tucked down the side of the passenger seat? I'm not taking storage ideas from anyone who doesn't use the bespoke umbrella storage

Opinion varies, but I've never understood why anyone would spec the towbar prep rather than the full towbar. For the sake of £800 the factory towbar has so many benefits over aftermarket. If you've any possibility of needing a towbar and are ordering new then the factory towbar is a no-brainer. A decent branded aftermarket bar with the proper integrated electrics is rarely less than £600. A lot of fitters use their own fitting kit and completely bypass the factory towbar preparation anyway - there's your £200 saving right there. Even if the aftermarket towbar pretends to fully integrate like the factory system (they rarely do), let alone the upgraded cooling system from the factory, then they still have to completely strip out the rear of the car. Not for me thanks.

There are only two service intervals really: - Fixed: 12 months / 10,000 miles whichever is reached first. - Variable: Up to 24 months / 20,000 miles, the car decides for itself. Then there are only two types of service too, with the third element all being extra... 1) Oil, oil filter, visual inspection of brakes, tyres, suspension etc. 2) As (1) plus pollen filter, air filter, fuel filter (diesel), spark plugs (petrol) 3) As (2) plus brake fluid (at 3 years old then every 2 years), DSG gearbox oil/filter and Haldex 4x4 oil/filter. If your Yeti is 3 years old, has 20,000 miles on it and has already had a service then it was set to 'fixed' from new and serviced at 1 year old (you hit the time stipulation before the mileage). At its first service it was then changed to 'variable' (personally I would have left it on fixed given your annual mileage), which two years later now means you've hit the time rather than mileage stipulation again. So, you're looking at a minimum of oil and oil filter, but you'll need the dealer to confirm with you what else they're planning on changing to be able to determine if the £250 is good value or not. Personally after seeing how the main dealers from other non-premium mainstream manufacturers charge for servicing we often forget how good we have it at Skoda. £250 for a service every two years, you can't say fairer than that. It's cheap to such a point it doesn't really matter what they're actually changing.

Since buying the E220 saloon last year to replace my MkII Superb I've been pretty impressed with its solidarity and comfy mile munching ability. But, I kind of wish I'd bought something a little more exciting. I also miss the huge accessible boot of the Superb. I looked at the CLS at the time, but didn't want to spend the extra money. A quick look recently on Autotrader and I was amazed how cheap the pre-facelift CLS is. Being based on my E-Class and with the same 7G gearbox it should be pretty familiar. Going to look at this one next week... It's a CLS350 so has the 3.0 V6 diesel engine, is a 2014 and covered just under 80K, for a smidge under £13,000 before negotiation. A quick look on Autotrader to see what that sort of money would get me from Skoda and their Superb left me realising that either Skoda's are no longer cheap, or the CLS isn't loved. Sure, its a couple of years younger, but £13K can't even get me into a MkIII L&K... Merc's aren't cheap to service, and the V6 engine will only get me early 40's mpg, but it should be a little more fun than the E-Class and the Superb.

Here's mine 😂 And the wife's 😂...

A fellow member kindly shared this link over on the Octavia forum. It's the first I've seen that lists all the PR codes out from the VIN. All of the others I've seen require you to type in each PR code. It also provides (the often missing) front brake disc PR code too, which is really helpful when sourcing replacement discs and pads... https://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/skoda Any chance we can make this a sticky to refer other members to?

Sharing my experiences after fitting a Garmin Dash Cam 30 to my 2018 Skoda Kodiaq Scout... About £80 off Amazon including a 64Gb micro-SD card.

Apologies if this has been covered before, a quick search didn't reveal much clarity. Are there two types of LED light clusters for the Kodiaq? 1) Rear LED 2) Rear LED High Do the standard LED rear lights consist of LED tail and brake lights with regular filament bulbs for the indicators and reverse lights? Whereas the difference between the regular rear LED lights and the 'High' version is the change from filament indicator and reverse light bulbs to 'full' LED?