silver1011

I had a similar system on my 2016 Mercedes-Benz E-Class. It worked OK but was not infallible, the beams would move around to avoid oncoming vehicles and those I was following. I'm sure the Kodiaq's matrix headlights are much improved but I did get the occasional flash from other road users, the system reacted but sometimes not quite fast enough to avoid brief dazzling of other road users. I ended up turning them off and instead reverted back to manually toggling between dipped and high beam.

Squeaky door grab handles here too, the issue seemed to be more widespread on early Kodiaq's (mine's a 2018). The top part of the grab handle has a tendency to detach from the door card too, I've seen quite a few examples of that over the years. I think Skoda eventually improved the design although it's still one of my biggest bug bears. The ignition engine on/off button on the steering column became intermittent on mine, but this seemingly affects most other Skoda models too. The drivers door electric window switch panel developed a fault whereby it wouldn't allow me to lower the windows until a minute or two of the engine being started. The dealer said it was a known fault and the switch had been improved (an extra electrical contact, or something of that nature). All fine since. The retractable load cover in the boot is painfully slow to retract, especially at this time of year. The inner light clusters on the tailgate aren't sealed properly and trap insects. A sticky factory fitted towbar (wouldn't release when pulling the button) was cured by the dealer, again they mentioned a known issue and applied some 'special order' grease. Nearly 4 years old and 30,000 miles and still on the original brakes and tyres (although the Hankook's are starting to crack). Other than that, all good.

Skoda call out the alarm siren as a service item and recommend it's replacement at predetermined intervals.

I had that on a previous Haldex equipped Skoda (2008 Octavia Scout). I was stuck. In frustration I manually turned off the ESP (it had a separate button like the Kodiaq, down by the electronic parking brake), and it flew out 🤷‍♂️

Skoda centre cap part number confirmed... 5E0601151FOD Standard cap, so not unique to the Sagittarious alloy wheel... SKODA CITIGO 2012 TO PRESENT SKODA FABIA HATCHBACK 2014 TO PRESENT SKODA KAMIQ 2019 TO PRESENT SKODA KAROQ 2017 TO PRESENT SKODA KODIAQ 2017 TO PRESENT SKODA OCTAVIA ESTATE 2014 TO 2020 SKODA OCTAVIA HATCHBACK 2014 TO 2020 SKODA RAPID SALOON 2012 TO 2016 SKODA RAPID SPACEBACK 2013 TO 2017 SKODA SCALA 2019 TO PRESENT SKODA SUPERB ESTATE 2015 TO PRESENT SKODA SUPERB HATCHBACK 2015 TO PRESENT

Definitely not red...

Another UK facelift vRS owner with centre caps fitted to their Sagittarious alloys. He claims they're standard Skoda caps, but is going to check with the dealer to confirm...

I actually typed condom to start with, but thought better of it! 😂

Half a dozen complaints dating back 14 years - all fixed by replacing the brake light switch. That's where I'd be starting, especially as it is something you can source and replace yourself relatively easily and cheaply. The alarm horn / sound box has in internal back-up battery which is actually a service item. Understandably it is rarely replaced and eventually drains / goes flat. There shouldn't be any adverse effects other than the alarm not sounding in the event the main vehicle battery goes flat or is disconnected and of course the fault code.

Another vote for a thin layer of grease. An aerosol of brake cleaner and a clean cloth removes it in seconds ready for receiving a friction / AL-KO hitch. An idea posted elsewhere that I saw was to use a party balloon, easy and cheap but can't vouch for its effectiveness.

Sorry, I don't. I'll take a look to see if there is anything printed on them next time I'm in the boot.

Glad you got it sorted, quite often the current draw sums don't add up with aftermarket accessories i.e dash cams. They do seem to be a common cause of unwanted and unexpected battery drain issues. One to watch I guess. Might be worth considering a hard wire set-up, relatively simple to do if you've got a few hours to spare using a few cheap and easily sourced parts. Take a look at this guide in case it might be of help...

Connected to the 'roof frame' rather than via the roof rails but the infamous helicopter on the roof marketing stunt continues, with a weight of more than half a tonne in this case. The only deviation from factory production being an upgrade to the rear suspension... https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/kodiaq/kodiaq-with-a-helicopter-on-the-roof/

CAN-BUS is the nervous system of the car, sure it relies on the various modules, but CANBUS connects these modules, so CANBUS does monitor the bulbs, albeit via the BCM or CECM etc. Various CAN-BUS controlled modules remain live long after the engine /ignition is turned off. There are various features and functions that remain awake for longer periods, those features and timings vary by manufacturer and model. Posts around glowing retrofitted LED's remining lit at all times (often all through the night) suggests that there is in fact a very small current in the vehicles interior lighting system. You're therefore wrong to assume that in all cases the LED's will completely turn off after 30 minutes to an hour.

I'm not saying that's what happened here, but on previous Skoda's most of the damage caused to these jets and caps is due to them trying to operate when frozen. It doesn't take much moisture to find its way between the cap and the bumper and freeze pretty firmly during a hard overnight frost. The passing air whilst driving will keep it frozen whilst most of the rest of the car defrosts. A wash of the windscreen results in a portion of highly pressurised water with no where to go which might be enough to crack or loosen the clips. The ice melts (or the next operation of the washer jets) and the cap is free to find it's new home on the grass verge. Early Kodiaq's also suffered with misaligned washer jets. They weren't retracting properly and ended up being left partially extended. Some owners tried to force them closed and broke them, they also broke themselves when their return to the bumper was impeded.

No doubt you've already checked this, but a (relatively) common issue on the Kodiaq is the pair of electrical feed bellows on the top of the tailgate aperture. They often visually look intact but quite a few people have had issues with them not sealing to the body of the car properly. This essentially diverts a large proportion of any water that either runs off the roof into the gulley where the bellows are, or that runs down the tailgate when it's opened, either inside the car (which then runs down into the boot or spare wheel well), or sits in the bellow and instantly runs into the tailgate when it's opened and the bellow lifted. The bellows are often used to route the electrical feed for rear dash cams and the retrofitting of a reverse camera. Either some of the clips are snapped off or they're not reseated properly. As mentioned, they look OK but in reality they're still able to let water past. Might not be your issue, but worth a cursory check if you haven't already.

There is a constant current running through the lighting system, even when the car is locked and most modules have shut down. I suspect the CANBUS system uses the door switches (that turn on the interior lights) to monitor / operate the alarm in case of activation. With the original halogen bulbs this minimal current wasn't enough to light the filament. The factory fitted LED interior light units are sealed and are likely configured to work properly on a CANBUS system. I guess the bulb manufacturers interpretation of 'CANBUS compatible' might be different to that of Skoda's? Some LED bulbs contain capacitors that hold residual energy after the power has been cut, but if this were the case they should stop glowing after a few hours as the energy in the capacitor depletes. If they're not then chances are the source of power is coming from the car and not the bulb. Not as cheap as retrofitting LED bulbs, but if I really wanted the benefits of LED interior lighting I think I'd be looking to source the original OEM light units.

Sorry, was trying to work out how to embed images without using a hosting site or being a FREEDOM member and got side tracked... P K5E0601151FOD S06G02 WHEEL CAP P K1Z0601173UZ7 S06G02 CAP I did Google them but got nothing back. Someone mentioned that the aero trims are not one piece and that the centre caps can be pressed / pushed off and fitted directly to the alloy wheel? Is this a possibility?

There is an image of the vRS 20" Sagittarius alloys on the UK website, without the aero trims and with centre caps... https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/kodiaq/vrs I'd add an image but my FREEDOM membership has run out. I also have the part numbers for the centre caps that someone has successfully fitted to their facelift vRS.

Something is amiss then, I very much doubt Skoda decided to retool the existing Ignite 20" alloys to allow them to accept the Aero trims, I'd imagine they'd be far more likely to design the new Aero trims to fit to their current alloy wheel design. There are Ignite alloy wheels advertised online that claim to be off a facelift vRS with Skoda centre caps fitted. I've also had issues with seemingly identical non-genuine Skoda centre caps bought off eBay, Wish and Aliexpress not fitting my wheels. Even though the fitment on the Aero trims is longer than that of the centre caps which appears to give the impression that the lip the clips hold onto is in a different position, could it be that the extra length is simply to accommodate the fact the aero trims sit further away from the face of the alloy wheel than the regular centre caps?

I think you need to try some genuine Skoda centre caps. I've had hit and miss results with non-genuine caps bought on eBay before. There are quite a few Ignite alloy wheels for sale with centre caps fitted.

I suggest you do 200,000 miles in a Superb and then 60,000 miles in the W212 like I have and then come back here and give your views, until then they're rather pointless

Great, used most months and still going strong. It is garaged but no rust and all clips and clamps working well. I'd still thoroughly recommend it, even it was the same price as Thule, but the fact it is significantly cheaper makes it a bargain.

Here is my experience running 17" alloys on my Superb, as well as fitting slightly oversized tyres...

When you turn off the ignition are you getting the written warning and image of a padlock in the central display between the dials to tell you Safe Lock is active? If you tested it with someone in the car then the alarm should have sounded after 30 seconds or so.