Llanigraham
Resident Member
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Everything posted by Llanigraham
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I had to replace the battery on my (nearly) 5 year old 150 and the tyre and battery place I used locally plugged a laptop into the port and in-putted a code that was on the battery when the "system" asked them for it. He said it was now quite common, and that my battery had lasted a lot longer than many others. And I paid a lot less than the OP has been quoted!
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Beer tokens changed hands when I needed some VCDS work done.
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Which has nothing to do with the drive system or your model.
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There have been no recalls for a Yeti of that age, so why do you think it should have been?
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The problem was this vehicle was towed when there was apparently no oil in the relevant area. That obviously shouldn't have been done. Any reputable compnay, knowing there was a problem with any part of the transmission should have used a flatbed. 4x4 Yeti's can only be towed with all 4 wheels rotating. Nothing to do with transmission wind up. More to do with the way the Haldex system works.
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Yes, he needed to move the markings over so the triangle is central to the jack, and yes those drain holes are there on all models. They drain the cill area of any water that gets inside, be that spray or even condensation.
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15" wheels have NEVER been approved by Skoda for fitment to a Yeti and have NEVER been fitted to them in any market.
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There is no comparison, and to try to do so is fatuous!
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I can only find 3 three threads on this, so it doesn't look like a common "problem". You are pulling the interior cable hard and fully? And you are pushing the under bonnet catch to one side?
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Oh dear!
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Yes or No answers required from the supporters of by-pass relay systems: Is the trailer stabilisation system activated? Yes/No Is the bulb failure warning system extended to the trailer? Yes/No Is a legally required trailer indicator bulb failure system activated? Yes/No Does the car's rear fog light get turned off? Yes/No Is the alarm system extended to the trailer? Yes/No Does the infotainment display show a trailer is attached? Yes/No On Stop/Start equipped cars is the system deactivated? Yes/No Are the reverse sensors automatically deactivated? Yes/No (All when a trailer is plugged in and the car has been reprogrammed) If the answer to all of those is No, then I will continue to state that anyone advising the use of a by-pass system will be deemed as being "Not Helpful". As for costs, PF Jones and others are now supplying excellent copied wiring looms that allow the correct procedures to be taken for not much more than the cost of a by-pass system, and they require about the same to fit them. Even Skoda's own loom is not that expensive!
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Quite frankly I can't be bothered. I suggest that if you don't like the way I respond to your sometimes incorrect and ill-advised "advice" you take it up with the Moderators.
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And helping others out is advising them, with over 10 years experience, that the by-pass system is not the best system to use on the Yeti, since it does not allow the car to be reprogrammed to allow all the correct systems and circuits to be used, plus it has been known to cause expensive damage. Therefore I will continue to do so, and if that means I mark your posts as "Not Helpful" so be it.
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Funny, but there have been numerous reports of problems with people who have fitted by-pass systems, sometimes very expensively, but the only problems reported by those using dedicated looms has been with incorrect reprogramming. And if modern by-pass systems are so good why aren't the likes of VAG, Kia or other manufacturers recommending or selling them?
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We have already said, get the by-pass system removed completely and replace it with a dedicated wiring loom and then get the car correctly reprogrammed.
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I would get the by-pass system removed as soon as possible and replaced with a dedicated wiring kit. Whether it will cure the problem depends on whether it has damaged the lighting control unit. Hopefully it will.
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Sorry to say it, but this looks like another excellent reason NOT to use a by-pass relay system!
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Def not Cibies https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sxsrf=ALeKk00JERSSsVZwvfOghvGFIIFu_i9OQQ%3A1601057657913&source=hp&biw=1366&bih=663&ei=eTNuX-WgNM2ca4n4rMAE&q=cibie+oscars&oq=cibie+oscars&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQARgAMgIIADIGCAAQCBAeMgQIABAYOgUIABCxAzoECAAQHjoGCAAQBRAeUJAfWI5CYMBaaABwAHgAgAGeBIgBqhaSAQk1LjIuMi41LTOYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZw&sclient=img
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Just watch the roof loading with a roof tent. Limit is 100kg.
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Then the reviewer was incorrect.
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I suggest you read what I wrote. You can turn the ORR system on whenever you like. However the HDC will not "become active" until the inclinometer senses that there is an incline, It doesn't matter whether you are in forward or reverse gear. It does not count revolutions to become "active", it just senses movement.
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No, I think you have misunderstood. ALL models get a plastic undertray, as shown in your photos, but what you could do is order the Rough Road Package which provided EXTRA fitments plus a slightly different under engine tray. I have had both: My first Yeti was the same as shown and even the standard undertray was quite resilient to knocks and scrapes, as I proved many times. The second Yeti had the RRP and it looked almost the same underneath but the under engine tray was thicker and made of a different plastic and was VERY resilient.
