Expatman

How do you find parking? It's wider than the Yeti and I am concerned about the gap between other cars and squeezing out of the door.

Did you change the water pump? After 5 years it could be problematic and you won't know until it leaks - or worst still the impeller siezes and throws off the belt, then all hell breaks out! Known problem - check Honest John's column

Drive belt / cam belt needs changing every 5 years and the local dealer would know that, that’s why they advised you to change the belt - whatever you call it! Let us know how you get on.

Hi Chris, I do about 8,000 miles a year. A lot of that is local rural journeys of about 10 miles but with occasional 400+ trips to visit relatives in Cornwall and Dorset. Used to do a lot more miles but being retired mileage is reducing. This year probably do no more than 6k because Covoid has curtailed holidays etc. I like comfort and a higher seating position so we can see better and over hedges!

If you’ve got the Skoda extended warranty they have no option but to repair (can’t do) or replace. I had a similar conversation about a heated seat pad and after a little debate they replaced it without problem. Sometimes dealers don’t actually know that an extended warranty provides cover of all items as in first 3 years - just need reminding!

Hi Chris - what mileage do you get with your 2 litre petrol XCC40? Did you try the 3 cylinder 1.5 litre by any chance? If I can’t find anything else within next 12 months then probably go for T3 XC40 automatic - there are generally only 2 of us in the car and we don’t tow anything so figure T3 would be ample for our needs. Incidentally I read somewhere that Volvo are planning to launch a smaller SUV to compete with T-Roc, Puma etc. in the next year or so, might watch the press to see if it is just rumour or fact.

If it’s got the Skoda extended warranty then INSIST they change the unit, water got in somewhere so there is a weak point and you need to get them to sort it out while the car is covered.

I would say that a screw in guide rod is almost essential unless you are built like a gorilla and have three hands! Seriously you are absolutely right - anyone changing wheels should invest in a guide bolt (usually come in pairs) and worth their weight in gold.

Come on! He’s talking about the main cam/drive belt which is scheduled for change at 5 years.

if both wheels are OEM Skoda/VAG then use same bolts - I did exactly that when I had summer tyres on alloys and winter tyres on steelies. Now have All Season tyres on alloys so no need to change twice a year. (I’m getting on a bit for that lark!)

The reason for changing water pump, tensioners etc. at same time is that they are simple to change when doing the belt change, if you don’t change them then sods law will apply and the water pump will leak and need changing fairly soon after you’ve changed the belt - then it’s the same price to change the water pump as it was to change the original belt with the corresponding heartache and wallet pain! It’s just sensible to change it all at one go then you know you’re all set up for another 5 years. Not sure what charge would be to change the belt etc. but I suggest you phone around dealers and local garages to get comparative prices - don’t forget to get them to include water pump and tensioners in quotes. This is a very common task with all VAG diesels so most good garages will be familiar with the work required, dealers often offer good prices on this because they are so used to doing the complete job and you do have the advantage of knowing genuine Skoda spares will be used. Try negotiating with your dealer if you get a better price from an independent - let us know how you get on!

Sorry, but you really need to change the belt, water pump etc. after 5 years. Might be okay for a while but you are running on borrowed time because if it does break then you will need a new engine and no question of Skoda contribution. Question is - are you feeling lucky!

What engine does your Yeti have?

Nice but a lot bigger than the Yeti, I think a lot of us are looking for a replacement of about the same size, driving height and trims as the Yeti. The VW T Cross fits the bill except it's so low rent inside - hard plastic everywhere, fabric seats, few convenience extras. Compared to the Skoda Kamiq it's really down market, but the driving height of the Kamiq is like driving a hatchback. Not sure what VAG policy is but clearly they have decided that Skoda's should be better finished than VW's. Why? Perhaps they are trying to force us into Audi Q2!! Good luck with that. So the search goes on.

There was a recall to change oil from synthetic to non synthetic but as long as that's been done no further oil changes are required.

That's the same trim and spec as mine but in Onyx grey. Any extras? I sometimes use the built-in satnav but usually use Waze or Google maps from smartphone connected with Smartlink so it's on the radio display. I find Waze and/or Google maps often give better routes than the built-in system and traffic alerts are more accurate. It's not that the built-in satnav is poor it's just that the smartphone systems are better.

What engine and trim?

Well I’ve now had 3 DSG’s, the latter 2 in Yeti’s. First Yeti was 2012 1.2 Tsi DSG and I didn’t have any problems with the DSG, the second is a 2017 1.2 Tsi DSG which I bought deliberately as the Yeti was going out of production and I couldn’t find anything as good to replace it with. New DSG is smoother than in the 2012 model and seems to be in the right gear even when off/on throttle like entering a roundabout. Mind you the DSG box has had 5 more years of development since 2012 and most bugs would have been ironed out. Personally I wouldn’t be worried about getting a DSG box but why not take out a Warranty to give you peace of mind? I have driven autos for the last 20+years and wouldn’t dream of going back to a manual - clutch in, clutch out, clutch in clutch out ad infinitum, why would anyone want to do that, particularly on our generally crowded roads?

Yes, that’s as option. Skoda dealer during lockdown suggested removing the main radio fuse as a last ditch try. Didn’t work for me so I was without a radio until end of lockdown but Dealer was excellent as they fast tracked a replacement and fitted while I waited. Don’t know if ben_highlands has Smartlink but if he needs new radio don’t forget to tell dealer before they remove radio so they can order the Smartlink with the radio. Otherwise he will have to prove to Skoda that radio had Smartlink for them to supply one foc.

Despite switching the radio and ignition off there is still power supplied to the unit. You could try removing the fuse in the engine compartment - near the battery - which will totally isolate the radio. Leave fuse out for a couple of minutes then replace and see if that works. I think it's fuse 4 but PLEASE check as I could be wrong. I had a similar problem to you and sadly nothing worked and head unit had to replaced at £1,000 plus but mine was under warranty. Worth trying for contribution from Skoda if worst happens but hopefully total reboot might work.

I believe it is possible to buy the combined hatch catch/camera on line. I don’t believe it is realistic to wire it into the radio head unit so you will need to mount a screen somewhere.

No bad, keep talking

You're right but Highlander19 is looking for a Yeti, no Yeti has a petrol DPF. So not something for him to have to worry about.

You can stick with what you have, just remember to give it a decent long run frequently to avoid any DPF problems. If you choose to change to a newer 1.2 petrol you will not be disappointed and not have to worry about DPF or any emission associated problems. The manual version is likely to be a “safer” buy if you believe the concerns expressed about the 7 speed DSG box (do a quick search on this Forum and Google), however, no one I know has ever had any problems and I certainly haven’t had the slightest qualm about the DSG box. The pros of the DSG box is that it is simply less tiring to drive in traffic and everyday motoring, personally I would only have an automatic car as I don’t see the attraction of clutch in, clutch out repeatedly in traffic - maybe my 74 year old knees would complain! You just put it into D-rive when you set off and that’s it until you arrive at your destination. If it was me I would be tempted to look for the highest spec 1.2 petrol SEL Drive DSG I could find with a reversing camera, power drivers seat and variable boot floor. Reversing camera because until you have one you don’t know what you’re missing, power drivers seat because you can set the seat, mirrors etc just where you like them and then the seat remembers that setting, your partner can do the same and it remembers their settings and you can swap between the 2 (or 3) at the touch of a button. Variable boot floor because it gives you 33% more luggage space than one with a spare tyre yet has a flat loading bay floor for everyday use.

Colin, modern electronics are extremely reliable and unlikely to go wrong compared to the emission control equipment and other mechanical parts of modern cars. The Duster is noisy and uncomfortable and built to a price. Looking at reviews it is certainly not the most reliable vehicle either. Compared to cars in my youth modern vehicles are infinitely more reliable. Austin Allegro & Morris Marina come to mind!!