Simon Cobb

We don't quite fit your criteria, as I'm 5"10 and my wife is just under 5'1". We've had a Scout for close to 2 years, with electric memory seats finished in Alcantara. Neither of us has any problem at all getting into a comfortable driving position, the range of adjustment in reach, height, pitch and lumbar support is huge. Our car is a manual as well, so if it was not possible to achieve a good driving position in order to be able to operate the clutch, I'm sure my better half would have told me. One pretty cool feature with the memory seats is that they can be programmed individually to each key so when we unlock the car with our own key the driver's seat and both door mirrors reposition themselves automatically for the correct driver - very useful when you have 2 widely differing bodies sharing the car. Sitting behind my wife in the car is quite an experience. The seat is so far forward, it's like being in a limo .

On-topic, but note what follows is for New Zealand only... You live and learn every day. I've lived in NZ almost 16 years and have always followed the UK approach to overtaking on dual carriageways or 3-lane motorways (of which there are precisely none in Canterbury, NZ) i.e. overtake on the right. The number of people here who just sit in the outside lane at 95km/h and will not move over when there is no traffic in the inside lane drives me potty, but I'd always thought it illegal to "undertake". Reading this thread convinced me to take a look at the NZ Transport Agency official rule. Lo and behold, it's quite legal to undertake :clap: thus:

I've got the same sunroof in my Scout. Yes it is small by today's standards, but it still makes the cabin airy and light, and when it's really miserable weather, you can pull the blind across and it's all very cosy in the cabin. Have you spotted the trick of getting the sunroof open past the half-way point? A few people on here have sunroofs that they had never fully opened because the opening mechanism is a bit cryptic. Twist it one way and the roof opens in tilt mode. Twist it the other way to the point you feel resistance and it will slide open half way. Twist it further, beyond the point of resistance, and it will slide fully open. Only problem with it fully open is that you get a bit of air pressure rumble in the car unless you open a rear window slightly.

There's a recent thread on this subject here. This should provide you with all the ammunition you need to get your Bolero updated. Good luck!

Very nice interior, quite Golf GTI-esque with the red stiitching. Like you, I'm not 100% sure about the black wheels, possibly because at first glance they could be mistaken for steel wheels missing their trim. They will probably grow on you. Overall though, a very nice car. Enjoy .

I still think this option takes some beating. Having fitted it to my Scout, it looks absolutely like a factory OEM part and complements the look of the car really nicely.

Having read through this thread, I thought I would approach my local VAG "indie" Volksworld, who specialises in Audi, VW and Skoda servicing and repairs. Their written recommendation to me was that while they are able to perform warranty servicing, I should use the main franchise dealer for servicing for the duration of the vehicle's warranty, in order to remove any chance of the dealer trying to wriggle out of a warranty claim if something was to go wrong. Once my warranty had expired, they could offer an equivalent or better service at a more competititve price.

+1. It was not available for the Scout in NZ though :-(. For my mileage, the TSI would have been far more suitable (and fun to drive). No DPF regens to worry about..

Resurrecting this topic. I'm on variable servicing, with my first variable service due in a couple of months on the car's 2nd birthday. I'm interested in seeing a servicing schedule for my 2.0TDi CR Scout. Does anyone have access to suitable schedule, preferably in KMs?

And to finish this story off, the correct size LED festoon bulbs arrived today, so I took my life in my hands and carefully removed the glovebox light-switch again - the correct way, this time, gently easing it out from the back first - and installed the LED replacement bulb. Lovely bright light in there now and the switch is still in one piece .

Removing one bulb throws an error (maybe that's a FL thing). As a short term fix, I opted to paint the 5w bulbs with black gloss Hammerite, leaving a little bit of the bulb unpainted to hopefully allow for enough heat dissipation. It's solved the light escaping problem, but whether the filament bulbs will last with paint on is yet to be seen. Bit of a bodge job that I'm not very happy with. Does anyone know where you can you get suitable loading resistors that would fit in W5W bulb holders similar to those used by Carl here that look like the picture below? On reflection, that seems a better and safer long-term solution for estate drivers at least.

Good point. Has anyone when they reached the 3rd stage, taken their car into their dealer and witnessed what is actually done in a forced generation? Maybe the dealer captures the exhaust gases carefully in a fancy receptacle? More likely, they use plenty of your fuel, while revving the cr@p out of the car as it emits all of those carefully stored nasties back out into the atmosphere.

I finally completed this mod exactly per Gizmo's suggestion, but struck a small snag that's only noticeable at night. The original filament bulbs throw light out at the top of the tailgate where it joins the bottom of the rear window on my Scout, just enough to be annoying when looking in the rear view mirror as they lightly illuminate the tailgate windscreen wiper. It's probably not an issue on a hatchback, but it is noticeable on a estate/station wagon. So I need to safely conceal the light from the filament bulbs. Any ideas?

Brilliant. I particularly like the bit where the underbody protection is being applied. It's like watching a load of Jedi knights with their lightsabers . Thanks very much for sharing this.

Interesting. Well, I'm using these for the puddle lights, these for the interior and these for the boot. I had assumed by their exorbitant price that the latter 2, sourced from Superskoda, would be CANBUS, but there is no mention of CANBUS on the description, so perhaps not. As long as using them is not going to do any harm and not drain my battery (can anyone confirm this should not be an issue?), I can't be bothered swapping them out. The ones from Superskoda set me back 88 Euros for 2 interior sets plus the boot lights, so let that be a warning to others contemplating a similar change: you can achieve the same look for a fraction of the cost, and not get the glowing LED error.

Yesterday I finished my LED interior bulb fit-out, with the installation of LEDs into the door mirror puddle lights. Now, I'm not sure if it's a coincidence or not as I hadn't looked that closely before today, but right now I'm seeing some slightly odd behaviour with the LED lights. If I jump out the car, shut the door and don't alarm it, all interior lights including puddle lights remain illuminated for 20 seconds or so, then all but the driver's mirror fade out and turn off completely, but the driver's mirror LED bulb continues to glow very slightly. If I turn the alarm on, the driver's door LED turns off completely but all of the other interior courtesy light bulbs then glow faintly. All bulbs are CANBUS and I get no errors on the dash. I guess that the bulbs are drawing very little power, so it probably isn't a problem for the battery, but can anyone offer an explanation for what might be going on here?

The first time my 2.0L CR diesel Scout did this, I was also pretty paranoid about the cause. A quick search on here set my mind at rest that it was normal. What really unnerved me the first time it did it was the strong burning smell that accompanied the fan running. Apparently that was just some residue burning off as the car was so new. Subsequent DPF regens did not cause the burning smell. My car has done a noticeable regen 4 or 5 times in 21 months and 15,000kms. You notice that the revs at idle are higher than usual, the car holds onto lower gears longer than normal before prompting you to change up and the fan is typically running when you switch the engine off. I've never had the dash warning light come on.

Finally completed my LED light conversion, by swapping out the mirror puddle lights (a slightly unnerving process as you carefully but firmly remove the mirror glass to gain access to the interior) and copying the rear number plate LED solution described so well by Gizmo68 here. It's a 15 minute job max, I got change out of a fiver for the bulbs and holders needed and I think it looks good. Retrofitting footwell lights might be next, but as soon as I start to think about messing about with wiring looms I get nervous...

I just fitted the ones suggested by Gizmo. They work perfectly and throw a good light out from the puddle windows on the door mirrors. Certainly tested my nerves taking the mirror glass out! I found with the mirrors set to point fully inwards and downwards, I was just able to get my fingers in behind the glass and apply even and firm pressure until they popped off. From there it was a straightforward job to replace the bulbs; it wasn't even necessary to disconnect the heated glass connection, I just left the mirror glass dangling while I swapped the bulbs. BTW, I had to smile when I saw the inside of the mirror glass. I saw no mention of Skoda anywhere; the part number said for "Audi B8 S4" .

PM sent.

There's been a very similar thread to this one, with a successful outcome. See here for details.

Then we get into the pronunciation of model names. Is it Octavia (as in hay) or Octavia (as in far). Likewise Fabia (ahh or ay). I've always gone down the hay/ay route personally, but am happy to stand corrected :-).

I did the supplier an injustice for this item. I emailed them through the eBay system and they have gone the extra mile to ship the item to NZ, so hat's off to this eBay trader. £13 including shipping to NZ or less than half the price I would pay from an NZ dealer.

Sadly, the supplier doesn't ship to NZ :-(. What is it with UK suppliers; we're not running round in grass skirts, eating coconuts over here you know . We even have postmen and postboxes...My guess is this would cost about £3 to post and be here in 7 days.

My dealer wants $54 (about £27) for one of these (p/n: 6R0 035 849). What a rip-off! Might go with an eBay solution.