sepulchrave

What idiot told you it would protect the cam better, never listen to them again, the protection comes from the zinc in the additive pack and is not related to the base oil stock at all. Swap back.

No. Pushing the connector back on is tricky due to access and it's tight.

You assume wrong, the oil is pumped through the filter while the engine is running, as soon as the engine stops it starts draining back to the sump and doesn't take long to empty.

Six years means the battery is toast.

Yes, because the reading means nothing unless the battery is under a 60A load whereupon I guarantee that the voltage would drop like a stone. How long do you think the existing battery has been trapped in there under a rusted solid bracket?

If you want cheap: https://ultimatestyling.co.uk/suspension-arm-front-lower-lh-audi-a1-s1-seat-ibiza-toledo-skoda-fabia-volkswagen-and-others-ult6875-ssa?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid%2C merchant&utm_campaign=wishbones-mob&utm_term=utm_term&gclid=CjwKCAjwmv-DBhAMEiwA7xYrd8QeFpJZIP1FMghReS7nIf2aHpQclq5W66f6nTt-U3XN6gjtwEGcqxoClvkQAvD_BwE

You don't say but I assume the car is a Mark 2 Fabia TDI, it sounds like it's stuck in limp home mode. There will be a fault code although it sounds like the warning light may have been disabled, we need the codes to take this any further.

So you're saying the two things are unrelated but coincidental and you've had the pump fixed but the boost issue remains? If so then there must be another fault code, there's no way a modern cars ECU would fail to flag such a major fault.

Did the garage forget to plug your turbo actuator back in properly or the MAP sensor or something else?

All Fabias are drive by wire. We're chasing the solid brake pedal first because an air leak would force the ECU to shut the throttle completely.

You haven't checked the servo itself though.

I don't like the solid brake pedal part, it suggests a massive air leak somewhere, try disconnecting the servo vacuum pipe at the manifold and block it off temporarily. Does it rev now?

Nope, PD engines don't suffer injector seal problems because the unit injector is actually bolted to the head casting directly and cannot move once fitted. The most likely culprit is fuel running back to the filter bowl and air being drawn in somewhere between the injectors, the tandem pump and the filter bowl. The injectors themselves will be fine and the pump can be rebuilt with new seals pretty easily. Make sure the filter bowl is airtight, this sometimes happens after a fuel filter change.

There's a lot of pub nonsense in tuning, 'every little helps' is for full blown racing engines where small improvements can make a big difference. In the real world there is a hierarchy of mods that really make a difference and it all starts with getting more air and fuel into the cylinders, that means net gasflow, gross flow is irrelevant.

It's ancient lore, passed down from generation to generation in the grand verbal tradition. It's also ritual magic, doesn't do any harm but doesn't make any sense either.

That's why Teflon buttons were invented for racing engines with floating gudgeon pins. I notice some wag said there was a right way to install those circlips, like the idiots who say you should stagger ring gaps. These things spin at varying rates in use so orienting them is pointless.

Since it's not lifter tick then it pretty much has to be little end or a broken ring. Although the sump plug thread repair itself isn't the cause, the fact that it must have been losing oil prior to repair indicates that the engine may have been run until the oil light came on which likely caused premature wear through loss of oil pressure. You can't really check without taking the head off and popping the rods and pistons out.

Although it looks awful and it's undoubtedly bad workmanship I doubt any damage has resulted from that bodged sump plug repair. That thing that looks like a helicoil is actually the stripped thread and is alloy rather than steel, the swarf is also alloy from drilling and tapping the plug thread, you can see that the pickup got bent when the drill bit slipped because the gorilla on the other end was pushing it too hard. Alloy is soft and won't damage the hardened steel bearing journals, there may be some swarf embedded in the shells but the first place the oil goes after pickup is to the filter so I doubt it. Side float is normal and necessary for the conrods.

Of course it's a petrol, I wouldn't bother with a diseasal unless I were doing high mileages and you can't do high mileages around town. I've never owned a diseasal car, they've always been dirty, smelly, slow and heavy compared to petrol. They're more expensive to run with higher servicing costs than petrol, the only saving is on fuel economy but you pay much more for the car in the first place so it's money wasted unless you do enough miles to claw it back in fuel savings.

I would ignore all of that if the car is otherwise ok.

More likely the ARB bushes.

Which engine are we talking about, if it's a diesel then you may have a vacuum pump failure.

Not at all, sarcasm is tricky to convey in writing and there are a LOT of foaming literalists on here, one of whom might have the magic code if you're lucky.

There will be a number of grommets hiding behind the engine on the bulkhead where various wires and tubes enter the passenger compartment, use one of these for your boost gauge pipework.

https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/check-your-vehicle/ I checked mine, it's fine.