sepulchrave

Dude, this thread died TEN years ago, I'd ignore it if I were you.

We'll need to know which engine you have since there are three different versions of 2001 1.4 petrol engine available.

The concentrate is of course, but you're supposed to dilute it with DI water 50/50.

Something else.

Good stuff, sounds like your new garage is a keeper, good recommendation.

No it's not waterless coolant, yes G13 will be just fine.

I'd get a second opinion if I were you, even Halfrauds only charge £85 to clean your DPF out. The sensors are not welded on, he's talking about the Lambda probe which has nothing to do with the DPF whatsoever. The DPF has a differential pressure sensor which is like a pair of MAP sensors which measure the back pressure in the system, these are very reliable and hardly ever need replacing.

Bump stops are usually built into the shock absorber on front struts, they're separate on the back, the dust covers were torn to pieces on my original struts, no bump stops underneath them, I bought new dust covers for my Bilsteins when I built them up prior to fitting but didn't need separate bump stops.

If it's exactly the same as before then they've done nothing at all except take your money, then take some more, they're hoping you'll just go away so expect the sums they want to be increasingly eye-watering, it'll be a new ECU next.

It's a load of smoke and mirrors, they don't know what they're doing, probably didn't have the necessary locking kit so they improvised and messed it up.

The cost of shipping to Shetland is the major portion of the cost, if you have one available locally you should be able to negotiate a fair price based on the fact that you're probably the only potential customer he'll ever have to sell it to.

I know of no vehicle that doesn't give trouble, the newer they are the worse it gets because emissions control equipment has become the dominant consideration.

Ok, bad spark plugs means you may have coil pack problems as well.

I would have bought the entire airbox from the breakers and just swapped the whole lot over, you could always modify it with a larger pipe if you felt it was holding the performance back.

No. It doesn't matter, KYB used to be Kayaba, a Japanese OEM rather than a German OEM.

Ignition switch failure seems the most likely culprit, hazard flashers working?

I think he means chassis ground or earth given the context.

Most of them should have been sorted by now though.

Unless you're doing a lot of mileage the petrol is a better choice for the lower servicing costs and no DPF issues.

12.7V suggests the battery is ok but it's behaving like a bad battery although you'd get fault codes in most modules so I think the problem is electrical, possibly a bad earth.

It doesn't matter, the dye is there to highlight any leaks under UV light, it fluoresces.

Check for air leaks in the vacuum hoses, particularly the brake servo line.

It'll be ok, don't try racing any glaciers though!

It's usually quicker to undo the headlamps so as to increase the available space than to struggle and lose knuckle skin.

That I'm not condescending and my advice is bankable is what's already been long established. I communicate facts in a matter of fact manner, these things are not matters of opinion, opinions are for social media, facts exist, they're real and they have to be learnt and should be shared. Lots of luck with your 'project', perhaps you can start a thread under the projects topic instead.