sepulchrave

It's about right, none of the other mods make any difference to headline power, try looking at the torque curve, should be a lot more butch now. Diesels don't rev so torque is a MUCH more useful measure of performance.

Lock up your wives, Mister Smooth is inda house 

Yes, faulty brake light switch.

Yes, oils suitable for CR diesel engines are NOT necessarily suitable for a PD diesel engine, take it back and get one which meets the appropriate VW specs.

Count the grooves, if there are 6 then it will fit just fine, a 5 rib belt will fit on a 6 groove pulley but a 6 rib belt will not fit a 5 groove pulley. You could get a 5PK1750 instead if you have problems.

It's generally always the switches, they're very poor quality and don't last.

It should work just fine.

9102 is silver and very common, any 9102 panel will fit and look fine.

If it's the same as mine then it's M14 x 1.5.

You can remove the starter motor and clean and lubricate the pinion shaft and the throw fork but the solenoid is sealed and would need replacing if it was suspected to be faulty. The motor itself is obviously ok although it will burn out from overspeeding if the problem isn't fixed. If this sounds a bit much you may be able to take it somewhere and they will recondition the unit for far less than a new part will cost. Alternatively you can buy a secondhand unit and swap them over.
 
However, the noise you describe may not even be the starter motor.

Early 2001 is more likely to be Koyo, if so then your angle sensor will be one with the non-detachable cable, the sensor above is for the later TRW system. Koyo pumps are encapsulated in disintegrating plastic crap, TRW pumps are not.
 
Mine is early 2000 and it's Koyo, I just pulled off all the encapsulation since all it does is hold water.

Bought them from a SEAT dealer, ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-Ibiza-Cupra-Uprated-Front-Console-Bushes-for-VW-Polo-Skoda-Fabia-ASZ-PD130-/130782421919?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e733d639f

No he mustn't, it's a PETROL engine steve.
 
Put anything you've got in it to get it showing on the dipstick, anything is better than driving it even another mile with nothing in it.
It really doen't matter what you use for topping up, all engine oil is miscible and there are no additives that will harm your engine, when your mechanic gets home ask him to change it all to a fully synthetic 5W30 since winter is just round the corner.

Have you checked the brake servo vacuum pipe for splits where it joins the unions, this is common and can give the symptoms you describe of poor cold starting, if you find any splits remove the pipe from the union, trim the split end off and heat the plastic to soften it before pushing it back on to the union.
 
Edit: You don't mention if you have replaced the ECT sensor, if not then you MUST replace it, I'm on my third sensor in five years, they are that unreliable.

Yes, there is a drain tap located at the bottom of the radiator on the left hand side, remove the coolant filler cap and drain into a washing-up bowl so you can simply pour the coolant back in when you're done.
 
 
So does mine, it's condensation emulsion, the same stuff as under the oil filler cap, nothing to worry about.

It's not a sensor, it's a thermostat, if you need the sensor as well you need to check whether yours is a two-wire or four-wire sensor by pulling off the plug and taking a look, ECP will tell you it's a four-wire sensor but it probably isn't if you have an early car with the AUB engine.

No, it's broken like I told you originally. Replace it, problem solved.

I used Eibach pro springs all round and Bilsteins on the front and I'm perfectly happy, firm but not crashy.
 
Mind you I'm on the standard steel wheels with 185/60/14's because it was horribly crashy on the 16's, but then I live in the countryside where the roads are narrow, bendy and bumpy, it's not for posing in McDonalds car park after all.
 
I'd like to try some 15's on it since I think that might be a good compromise between ride and handling.