pist0nbr0ke
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Everything posted by pist0nbr0ke
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www.rearguards.co.uk
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If the heater isn't working properly, I wonder if this is a seperate issue - the silica bag in the coolant tank bursting and blocking the heater matrix. Search on here, common issue as well I'm afraid.
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I did contact one exhaust manufacturer to ask about this on my Passat with the same engine (2.0 TSI 272ps) they told me there was no point as the O/GPFs muffle the sound anyway. Be interested if anyone has actually done it and what difference it made?
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There are loads on Ali Express...
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You could probably use OEM parts from a 4x4 vRS? Or aftermarket parts for the same? It might be easier and cheaper to p/ex the Scout for a 4x4 vRS though... Or have you 'sleeper' plans for it, dropping an RS3 engine in it maybe?
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From memory (no longer have an Octavia) yellow arrow is screwdriver, under the jack handle, red arrow is the threaded end of the towing eye, it fits on its side:
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Easy enough to raise the floor to fit level with the spare wheel, using some dense insulation foam board under the boot floor. Although you may struggle to access the tie down loops at the side if it goes too high...
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To his ears, rattle has gone completely now 😂
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Never mind red dots, invest in black ones, aka full stops.
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What about fitting a decent LED lightbar behind the lower grille, under the number plate? Trigger it via a relay with main beam, but have a switch somewhere in the cabin to disable it? I've done exactly this on my Amarok.
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Indeed it is part of the bumper and plastic welding is the only way to replace it, even if you can find the grille on its own. (Sometimes ebay list them, where a breaker has been careful enough to remove it.) Plan B is the Superskoda one as you have already discovered.
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Is it possible the new lamp unit is from a lhd car and therefore is the opposite to UK, hence the fog light not working?
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Worth pointing out that's a very early 230 'special edition', only the very first ones came through with no roof rails. Unsure if it adds much to the value but it does make it more desirable as it will have the 'better' diff, and electric seats IIRC?
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You should be able to reach it through the grille, more by feel though as I doubt you'll see it. (A mirror might help). As you are only checking for loose connections it should be fine.
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The hex screw is just for adjusting the foglight aim. To remove the plastic grille, put the little hook from the spare wheel kit through the same hole as the hex screw, twist and pull hard. Be careful of the sensor connector!
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It'll increase the overall circumference of the wheel and tyre, affecting the speedo, and it will possibly cause rubbing against the wheelarches. Try it and see, you can always change the tyres. Spigot rings should be fine, although I was under the impression OEM Audi wheels were also 57.1mm CB. Are they genuine wheels or aftermarket?
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Huh? As long as the overall circumference is within a couple of % there is no need to change anything. E.g. 205 55 16 to 225 40 18 will require no changes. I don't even know how you could 'tell the car' or 'reconfigure the ecu' for different wheel sizes tbh, although it's probably possible to recalibrate the speedo if you fitted a massively different setup. www.willtheyfit.com is a very useful site 👍
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They'll fit ok, but 245 section is pretty wide, maybe too wide. Standard size for Octavia Mk3 is 225/40/18. 235/35/18 would be a closer match. Are you sure CB is different? Octavia ones are 57.1mm.
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Why do you need to paint the mirrors? The old covers are easy to swap to the new mirrors, they are the same?
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DCC, leather, winter pack, spare wheel and black pack plus would be my must haves. Nice-to-haves would be sunroof, electric seats, ACC and rear camera, (but that can be retrofitted anyway.) 4x4 is an option on the TDi vRS too. Mine was a 4x4 estate with pano roof, leather, winter pack, black pack plus, spare wheel. DCC wasn't an option on early 2016 when I ordered mine, but became available later in 2016. I added rear camera, mud flaps, OEM rubber floor mats etc. It also had 312mm front discs but was a pre FL. As for faults, I had water pump, cambelt and tensioner replaced under warranty, and 3 wheel bearings in total! (But I was running spacers 😉 )
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I've used the VW version twice now to remotely unlock the car from work, when the missus has locked her keys inside on the drive at home...lifesaver. Never could understand how it locked with her keys inside (it has keyless entry/start), unless I locked it with my key when hers were still inside?
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It's LF7A, sometimes also described as steel grey
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I wouldn't leave the water pump that long - most don't seem to last even half that mileage! It makes sense to do the cambelt at the same time as it involves much of the same labour in dismantling and reassembly.
