FatblokeVRS

We did remove the 17mm hex fill plug first and a trickle of oil came out. We then removed the 17mm hex drain plug and more came out but we are not sure how much but it didn't seem like 2 litres. There was nearly a litre syringed out from the fill hole. We tried putting oil in with the drain plug out to verify it was draining ok but basically very little is coming out. Any reason the oil is not flowing through to the drain hole? Any ideas?

Hi Everyone We are trying to change the oil in my mates 2016 Yeti 2.0 110bhp 5 speed gearbox. We drained the gearbox and tried to fill with the new Fuchs oil but right away, oil started to flow out of the fill hole. It seems that the box did not drain properly although some oil had come out of the drain hole. It was as if the new oil was not draining down into the bottom of the gearbox very quickly so we tried putting fresh oil in slowly but that made no difference. With a 500ml syringe, we manage to take nearly a litre out of the fill hole but it was old darker oil. We opened the drain plug again but there was less than 100mm came out. For some reason the oil is not flowing through and down in the gearbox. It was mentioned there is a vent pipe that could be blocked causing air to be trapped, preventing the oil flowing. Can anyone shed any light on where this pipe I or how we can get oil back in to the gearbox as it only seems to be old oil I the top section and nothing below at the drain plug. Cheers Dave

Pre face lift Part number 10776301 aka PW24W bulbs that are used for DRL in the top of the round light housings located below and inward of the main headlights. The bottom of these round light housings is used for the front fog lights. The top bulb holder is in several sections that split apart but the bulb is not easily removable. Understandable if you have replaced the bulbs. I am just looking for information on how the bulb is removed / replaced.

Sorry for the thread revival. Just picked up a 2011 PFL Yeti and It has the 10776301 bulbs in it. I managed to remove one side from the light housing and it plugs into a main socket housing that has the power wires into it. There's a button on this main socket housing that releases another plug socket that is rectangular and has the bulb plugged into it. All very confusing but the bulb plugs into a plug with a rectangular bit that plugs into the main wired plug that fits into the light housing. My question is, how does the bulb release from the plug to allow replacement? Cheers Dave

I had the same issue. I used these LED bulbs and they were better. You do get an error on the dash though but you can get inline connectors to fix that. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XDQQRHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check for feathering on the inside edges of the tyres. There was an issue several years back with alignment settings that caused the rear tyres to scrub causing droning. We had this on our VRS. Skoda put out new geometry settings and we haven't had an issue since. I know you said the front but worth checking.

I use 16" wheels with 205x55x16 winter tyres over the winter. Fit fine on the VRS. Plenty clearance with the standard calipers etc.

It seems they have used my photo without permission or acknowledgement. The wheel arch should move enough to get into the siren but you may need to remove some of the panel clips. It's behind a metal box/cover that's held in with a pop rivet if I remember correctly. Just drill the pop rivet out. You can replace it with a self tapper screw. Not sure about the fuse. Cheers Dave

https://youtu.be/7BFLJhW8azI

I think that can be caused by a dirty throttle body. Easy enough to remove and clean it. Worth cleaning the EGR valve too. Just did both on my VRS. Brake cleaner was OK but carb cleaner seemed stronger and really cleaned them aided by an old toothbrush.

The steering wheel / coil light etc can stay on if the battery had died or been disconnected. Usually they will go off after vehicle is driven 100 yards or so or steering is turned lock to lock. Totally normal.

Need to get mine done too. Who repaired it?

I change the oil on the VRS and Audi every 5000 miles so oil is used quite quickly. Wow, just noticed the cost has gone up from £60 to £80 in just a few days.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303124417772?epid=22033524677&hash=item46939f8cec:g:eBcAAOSw2CFcsHEl&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4GVVlWV1bhbyi844Rs1wE5gcaHRH0NE1OjjyC2qhl77TJi4PeOyw70QbMSgdhsXqoXcsA0LCwfgRG5%2FnjC5klpHjzDYxAsPYC9pQNVbQ%2B8iJl6nm5QDeDLLCQtHEiKZTZ8xxQXotKIGLxjwrTHr6En%2Bjuj7mKX44ddHVy4uXFP%2B9B5du3yx4KgmtTsu5CeD4zH1lpRrKt%2B0l58HakemafhKGmYRTlBI6zbAAgtAB8ATRs72hwv4UisqkAmM0OJBOAtgm1TBjOwa3F%2BzoaFqpZwxDSut5HLoNfuqBNCAxOIKO|tkp%3ABFBMjM3lms5h

If its been used regularly from a low mileage it may be OK but if its not, it could dislodge sludge / carbon that could block oilways, cause leaks etc. Modern full synth is loaded with cleaning agents so best to use correct spec oil and change it and the filter regularly. Also give it a thrashing now and then to get the oil moving around and picking up the contaminants especially just before an oil change.

I just don't want to feck injectors or pump.

Got the H&R ‐50 Cup Kit on ours. It is quite firm but handles well and much better to drive than standard. Lowered it about 35mm all round.

Nobody got any info on this? Do I just connect the diesel pipes back up and it should start or do I need to do something to prime etc?

Hi All I have been getting the manifold flaps error for a while. The error light is now staying on and I want to try the wee metal bracket on the manifold to see if that fixes the issue. I also need to replace the thermostat. I need to remove the manifold to fit the bracket and hopefully gain access to change the thermostat. I have looked at many posts and pages and some videos of fixes on different vehicles but I couldn't find any really good how tos or videos for removing and refitting the plastic manifold specifically from the Octavia mk2 diesel CEGA from start to finish. For example, I am not sure about disconnecting high pressure fuel lines or does the fuel system need primed once they are connected back up etc. Is there anything out there that can help with the manifold and thermostat? Cheers Dave

Hi All The sensor was in the centre air vent cluster on the left hand side. Part number 3D0907543A. Will try calling skoda dealer tomorrow again to see if they are open but expect around £45 for one from seeing other posts. Found this though..... https://www.realoem.parts/electric/air-temperature-sensor-volkswagen-3d0907543a.html Anyone used them? Cheers Dave

Update: I checked with vcds and got a couple of odd readings. The left vent temp sensor was reading 84.7 degrees when the right was reading 23 degrees so looks like the left sensor is knackered. Where are these sensors? Also the main coolant temp was reading 64 degrees and it won't get any higher. I would suspect the thermostat is stuck open but is there any way I can test the coolant temp sensor or is there another coolant sensor anywhere that I can check to see if it gives the same reading? Cheers Dave

Never managed to get the right ones. Luckily I found my originals. You could maybe get them at a breakers yard.

There's no gear clicking noise or anything. Everything seems to be moving when it's doing a reset. The left side blows warm air then goes cold, the right side does the same now although was warm before. The left blew cold and the right blew warm but after several resets, both are cold air now but still blow hot for a few seconds when doing the reset procedure. There's warm air there during the resets. Blower fan seems to be working. The coolant level is fine. The engine coolant temp is running a bit low now too instead of 90 degrees. Possible to check the temp sensors for each side? Where are they? Should I replace the thermostat? Is it easy to do? Anything else I can check? Cheers Dave

Hi All I carried out the procedure in the video above and the airflow is slightly better but still not keeping the screen clear in the extreme left of the windscreen or passenger door window. When you do the procedure, you can hear the flaps moving and rubbing on something on the left side of the dash (rubber squeaking noise). I wondered if there was a way to lubricate anything in there with silicon spray etc or is there something else I can do, clean or replace?? Cheers Dave

For info - this is the procedure for mine. 2010 FL. Not tried it yet but hopefully sorts my issue.