FatblokeVRS

It was cleaned a while ago. Not sure if they did the procedure above. If the adaption was done now does that then set it back to zero? Does it then re-learn the actual ash level? How do you do a service regeneration?

It was physically removed and cleaned as far as I am aware.

Hi All Was scanning my VRS with VCDS and had a wee play around and found some info on the DPF. Car has done nearly 95,000 miles now and we had the DPF cleaned out a while back after it choked with a remap. Are these readings ok? 13 mbar Particle Filter Different. Pressure 99 ml Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume 21.9 Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.) 18.3 Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.)

That's the sump cover. They are like a felt type material. Should be held on to the sump with plastic clips I think. There should maybe be a large plastic under tray too. I see its been in getting work done? Sometimes the garages lose (bin) the covers. They lost my sump cover in the audi dealership on my A3 recently. Made them put a new one on. I would push them to replace the sump cover and under tray.

Thanks for that. I seem to remember the headlight voltage on mine was about 11.7v after some work was done on it. I checked it as the headlights had very poor output. I will check it again and have a look with VCDS.

How do you turn up the voltage?

I have 55w LED bulbs in a projector housing. Same beam pattern as the halogen. Passed at least 2 MOT's. Just make sure they are adjusted properly so they are not too high. I adjusted mine to the same height as the halogens. Never had a problem. No errors, no flashes.

Our VRS CR is 10 years old and just coming up for 95,000 miles. Had quite a few issues with turbo, egr, clutch and dmf when we got it remapped a few years back which got refurbished or replaced as required. Had new disks and pads and H&R -50mm cup kit and a whiteline rarb. Its also had a new aircon pump and a radiator last year. Also had wishbone etc replaced so suspension nice and tight. Gets oil and filter changed every 5000 miles. Handles well and still pulls like a train. 205bhp and loads of torque. Mid 40's mpg around town and best was 55.65mpg on a run up to the highlands (measured brim to brim). Also got 16" winter wheels and tyres. Never been stuck even in thick highland snow in winter. Will keep it until it dies. It's been a great car.

Turbo Actuator sticking maybe or a problem with the N95 vacuum valve??

Hi All I scanned the VRS with VCDS recently and there was a "low voltage" error to do with the alarm siren picked up. I decided to replace the battery (2010 vehicle) and hoped that the battery hadn't started leaking over the circuit board. I had read that you open the case up with either a Stanley blade or a hack saw. A mate suggested heating before cutting so I used the wife's hairdryer before cutting with a Stanley blade. It was pretty easy when heated up a bit. Unfortunately that's as good as it got as I had a couple of issues. First one was I cut a wire with the blade while opening it up as there are 2 very close to the edge of the case. Second was I got the wrong battery. I will get the correct battery and replace as planned. I replaced the wire. Please note that if you de-solder the original wire, the metal coating comes with it so you need to solder in another place. I moved the wires to sit in a bit. I took some photos that may help others if they decide to replace the battery. It looks very easy to do. I also have a photo showing the position of the alarm at the rear of the front drivers wheel arch. Cheers Dave