FatblokeVRS

I have the same problem with 3 needles not lighting up. Contacted a place quite near (Stirling) a couple of times that does this type of work and they never bothered to respond. I could maybe do it myself but the smds are very small and my fat fingers might struggle so looking to send it off to get done. Any recommendations?

Very similar but they have to be the correct OEM ones as they have additional clips so they can clip onto the sides of the bulb power plug.

Hi All I require part no. 5 for each headlight. They are spring steel clips that clip on to the bulb plug and then clip onto the headlight housing holding the plug and bulb in. It's for Mk2 FL halogen headlights. Does anyone know the part number and where I can get them? Dealer had difficulty determining what they were and thinks I need a whole cable section to go with them at around 22 quid each. Cheers Dave

I used Pagid standard disks and pads all round on our VRS CR. They have been really good. Was speaking to the mechanic at a local garage recently and he uses Apex brakes. He says they are very good quality. I am changing my 288mm front disks in my Audi to 312mm. I had to get different caliper carriers to permit fitting the bigger disks. I would assume it would be the same for the rears.

I think standard ones will be fine. I am putting a Bilstein B12 / Eibach Sportline kit on my Audi A3. I spoke to a company that makes shorter droplinks and they said I didn't need them unless I was going lower with a coilover kit.

Thinking of the quickjack 7000, depending if it fits under all the cars. It would let me do all the suspension, brakes, servicing etc although would still need to get on the floor. The good thing is it can be put away leaving the garage clear. Less than half of the cost to put a 2 post lift in too. https://www.costco.co.uk/Tyres-Automotive/Garage/Trolley-Jacks-Axle-Stands/QuickJack-Portable-Automatic-Car-Lift-System-Jack-3175kg-Capacity-Model-BL-7000SLX/p/315645

Its firm clay underneath the garage. The existing floor 8m x 6m is 4" deep with steel mesh in it. I had planned on 1m x 1m x 18" (0.5m) deep C40 concrete with M12, 160mm rebar pins fixed with resin, 80mm into the existing floor around the square holes to tie the new concrete into the existing floor. The new concrete would also have M12 rebar in it.

It should be 2 x 1m x 1m holes by 12" deep. Minimum purchase is 1m cubic metre so I was going to do 2 holes of 1m x 1m x 18" (0.5m) deep to give the 2 x 0.5 cubic metres. It would be C40 spec (just under 6000 psi). Not sure what the current floor is but it is reinforced with steel mesh.

Hi All I was considering getting a 2 post lift in my garage but the floor is only 4" thick. The guys that fit them recommend a minimum of 6". Long story short, I would need to cut the floor and put in 2 large holes and fill them with deeper, stronger concrete. As its a bit of a hassle, and going to increase costs I am considering a mobile lift such as a QuickJack, either the 5000lb or 7000lb (future proof for heavy electric vehicles). Has anyone used one of these? Any good or is there an alternative or should I persevere with the floor upgrade and a 2 post? Cheers Dave

181,000 miles and a flush and 3 oil changes. Have they done a compression test?

As ,long as the outside is ok sealed behind the rubber and the piston slides ok, just clean it up a bit with a wire brush etc taking care not to puncture the seal.

https://www.stanceduk.com/collections/stance-drop-links

Maybe got an intake leak / burst or loose pipe so its not building up boost properly? Any error codes?

I got the part number off mine and got a refurbished one online for around £150 a couple of years back. Fitted and worked perfectly. Got it regassed at kwik fit at the time and its been great since.

I had an issue with the passenger door mirror and indicator. Turned out it was a loose plug in the door near the speaker. Took door card off and clicked it back in and been fine since. Worth checking the wiring and plugs.

I think there is supposed to be load on the suspension, ie full tank and car lowered before tightening up the suspension bolts.

These bolts are really tight and have threadlock on them I believe. Never heard of them loosening off. Would get them checked by another garage.

Our mk2 with the H+R -50mm Cup Kit. Actual lowering was -35mm lower than VRS suspension.

We got the grille surround painted race blue to match the car at a local paint shop. You should be able to pick a surround up at a scrap yard cheaply and get it painted for about £50.

That rusty lip will come off quite easily if you hit it right round the disk with a hammer. Just keep chipping it on the front and rear face along the outer edge until its off. Wear safety glasses and a mask as the rusty bits will ping off and there will be brake dust. Its an easy, quick job.

Is the rear centre of the engine wet or shows dry coolant residue or was there coolant on the rear of the undertray? Ours had a leak and the undertray was covered so didn't give much clue to where the leak was. Turned out to be a leak in the radiator at the drivers side. Inspection showed dry coolant residue under the radiator at that side. For info, the OEM radiator was made by Hella and a new identical Hella one was just over £60 online, much cheaper than the dealer price.

For clarification, that should have said "I don't push it too hard". It may well be very stable if you give it a good push.

I put a H&R -50mm cup kit and a Whiteline rear ARB on our VRS. Transformed the handling. Lowered it 35mm (VRS is already 15mm lower than standard). Its a wee bit harsh on rough roads but not too bad. Overall much better than standard VRS suspension. You may also want to upgrade the brakes slightly. 312mm is standard on VRS. Revo now gives 205bhp.

Not noticed any under/over steer but don't push it too hard. Its much better than standard suspension, much more controlled and stable and much less bouncy and stays level round corners. Defo more precise feeling when driving.

I think the disks on my VRS were 272 if I remember correctly. Was a while back though. You could always order both and return the incorrect ones.