FatblokeVRS

We have a -50mm H&R cup kit (shocks and springs) on our 2010 VRS CR 170. It lowered it around 35mm as the VRS is 15mm lower than standard. Also fitted a Whiteline rear anti roll bar to it. Nice and level round corners. The H&R kit is slightly harsh on rough roads but overall its been really good. A slightly less harsh option is Eibach prokit or sportline springs. The prokit will be fine with standard shocks but prob worth replacing them if at 125k. Sportlines are lower than the prokit so may needs shorter shocks with them. I am putting a Bilstein B12 kit with Eibach Sportlines on my Audi soon (hopefully). It should firm things up without being too harsh. We have a REVO map on our VRS and increased from 170bhp to 205bhp with around 426nm torque. Pulls very well but we had to get new clutch, flywheel and get the EGR, DPF cleaned out and turbo refurbished. It has run very well since.

Ross tech VCDS is very popular. https://www.ross-tech.com/index.html Supplier in Ireland: Logic Automotive Unit 18n, Greenoque Industrial Estate Rathcoole Co. Dublin Ireland Ph: (00353) 1 4587857 Fax: (00353) 1 4587857

Used Bosch S5 before but had one failing after about 2 and a half years. Dealer had gone bust and Bosch weren't interested. Tried an Exide and its fantastic. Much better performance than the equivalent bosch. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea770/

Hi, sorry only just saw this. Yes the replacement radiator fixed the issue. No issues since, just over 95,000 miles on it now.

I have the -50mm cup kit on our VRS CR. Front is 640mm from ground to centre of wheel arch and rear is 650mm. That's with the standard 18" wheels on. It is a bit harsher than Eibach springs but been fine on ours.

Got Uniroyal Rainsport 3's on our VRS, A3 and Boxster. They are pretty good. I see there's a Rainsport 5 now but not tried them.

Get a H&R cup kit or Bilstein B12 kit to upgrade and lower the suspension. I have a full set of good original struts and 3 springs off my 2010 cr VRS for sale. Not sure if they would fit.

I fitted Pagid disks and pads all round on the VRS. They have been good. (Euro Car Parts). Got a Whiteline RARB on too and its been great (along with the H&R -50mm Cup kit).

If you get new panels, if you cut the centre bit of metal out, you can fit them without stripping everything down. They react chemically with the bolts and it makes them fatigue and break off after time. You could try painting the fixing holes or try washers on them.

Ours has a slight tint. Check that there is no distortion around the edge 6 inches right round the screen when you look through. Best to check against something straight like a kerb or straight painted road marking. I have had several like that in different vehicles and had to push for OE screens.

Jack up the back and try spinning the wheels to see or hear if there is anything causing an issue. The wheels should spin freely if all is OK. Also check the handbrake is releasing properly. When one of my wheels got hot, I stripped, cleaned and regreased the caliper pins , brake pads and slides etc. Problem solved.

Glad you got it sorted mate.

https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ 3.1" circumference difference. A 205x60x16 will be pretty close.

Looks good. We did ours race blue to match the car. It looks much better with the grille surround done.

Denso used to be very good. Toyota used them. Not sure what they are like now though.

There was a company on ebay a while back that tested the instrument cluster and replaced the faulty led's etc. Can't find it now. I need to get mine done too. The speedo needle doesn't light up. Anyone know where does the repairs now?? Found it....... https://totaltronics.com/instrument-cluster-repairs/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk2-instrument-cluster-repair/

Are there any links to other VAG vehicles? I am looking for a workshop manual for a 2016 diesel Audi A3 (8V chassis - same as Octy mk3).

Anti roll bar bushes?

Hi All I scanned the VRS with VCDS recently and there was a "low voltage" error to do with the alarm siren picked up. I decided to replace the battery (2010 vehicle) and hoped that the battery hadn't started leaking over the circuit board. I had read that you open the case up with either a Stanley blade or a hack saw. A mate suggested heating before cutting so I used the wife's hairdryer before cutting with a Stanley blade. It was pretty easy when heated up a bit. Unfortunately that's as good as it got as I had a couple of issues. First one was I cut a wire with the blade while opening it up as there are 2 very close to the edge of the case. Second was I got the wrong battery. I will get the correct battery and replace as planned. I replaced the wire. Please note that if you de-solder the original wire, the metal coating comes with it so you need to solder in another place. I moved the wires to sit in a bit. I took some photos that may help others if they decide to replace the battery. It looks very easy to do. I also have a photo showing the position of the alarm at the rear of the front drivers wheel arch. Cheers Dave