FatblokeVRS

I have lowered H+R suspension and a whiteline rear ARB. The whiteline makes a big difference to body roll. It goes round much more level. I don't have uprated front ARB but that may help also.

I got Lemforder arms for the rear and original Skoda wishbones for the front. Lemforder make the OEM stuff I think. Not sure of the S3 part numbers.

I have a Bilstein B12 / Eibach Sportline kit to fit to my Audi A3. I found a company that makes shortened drop ,inks so asked for advice. They said standard droplinks are fine for prokit or sportline. You only need shortened if very low like on coilovers etc. You might also consider new wishbone arms front and rear and new adjustment bolts for the rear as they are prone to seizing.

Dealers use Quantum. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUANTUM-LONGLIFE-3-5W-30-FULLY-SYNTHETIC-ENGINE-OIL-5L-CUBE-VW504-50700/154105854933?epid=7032265364&hash=item23e16cbbd5:g:2KUAAOSwWelfcEUi

The dealers use Quantum. I use that or Fuchs or Castrol 507.00 spec in the VRS and the Audi A3. You can get good deals on 20 litre drums sometimes. https://www.seatmotorparts.co.uk/seat-shop/genuine-seat-5w30-long-life-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-5-litres/

They don't move much so I think they last a very long time. Only changed mine when I replaced the suspension as it was all stripped down anyway.

Could just be dirt and rust built up on the caliper carrier seizing on the brakes until its heated up and expanded until it locks up. I would strip, clean and regrease the brakes to make sure everything is moving as it should in the first instance. Also check the handbrake linkages are not seizing on. A squeal from the rear is a tell tale sign that something is sticking somewhere.

If you are concerned about the timing belt and water pump, replace them. Change the oil (507.00) and filter regularly (every 5000 miles on mine). It keeps everything clean, especially in a diesel. Consider a K+N air filter or change the standard air filter now and then. Get a remap. Drive it.

Any error codes?

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts

What kind of cost are local fast fit type places quoting? Might be worth getting a ballpark figure off them and checking with a dealer.

Got our -50 cup kit and whiteline rarb on a few years back. Had a bump a couple of years ago and bent a front strut so a full new kit was installed via insurance. The new kit seems to be slightly stiffer than the one fitted a few years back. It made a massive difference with both kits compared to the original VRS suspension. A wee bit stiff on really rough roads but overall we have been really happy with it. Its a pleasure to drive without that armchair feeling. Height wise too looks and feels much better. Never had any issues with speed bumps etc but obviously just take it easier over them. I have opted for a Bilstein B12 / Eibach Sportline kit and Whiteline front and rear ARB's for my Audi A3 but not fitted them yet. Will see how that goes as the "Sport" suspension on the Audi is very wallowy/bouncy. I am hoping they make as much improvement to the Audi as the Cup kit and RARB made to the VRS.

Would have thought there was one.check the label on the inside of your owners manual. It should give codes for all fitted options. You can decifer the codes on several websites.

As far as I remember, the VRS is 15mm lower than standard models. We put the H+R -50mm cup kit on and it was lowered an actual 35mm. When they specify a lowering measurement, it is usually taken from the standard suspension height. Maybe best putting new shocks on the front too and a full set of matched lowered springs (or normal VRS height springs) all round. Different makes may give different handling.

That looks ok for the standard springs on the rear of a VRS. Our hatch was like that until it was lowered on an H+R -50 cup kit. What springs are on the front? Are they lowering springs? If standard originals it may just be that they have settled over time.

You can purchase the regulator separately so would assume you can change them on their own.

I was thinking of getting one of these batteries when mine starts to cause issues. Its 190mm high instead of the 175mm high thats currently in but looks like there's plenty of room. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea770/

One other point, when you put the 3 x torx screws back in, don't do them too tight or they clamp and stop the 2 spring clips that hold the switch into the dash from springing correctly. Check they slide OK before fitting back in the car.

Hi All I took the switch out earlier and discovered 3 x tiny torx screws at the back holding the black back cover on. I took them out and it came to bits. A small plastic plate with 3 metal prongs fell out. I stripped it fdown a bit (see photos), cleaned it a bit with electrical cleaner and applied a little silicon spray at moving parts, keeping it away from the metal prongs and the electrical plates they pressed against. I put it all back together and worked out where the first bit that fell out went. Its really easy to put back together. I tested it before the back cover went back on. Everything was silky smooth, turning for the lights and pulling for the fog lights. I put the back cover back on and everything seized up. It sounded like it was rubbing when I turned the switch. I took it apart several times and tried putting it back together with the switch in different positions in case the cover was catching on something. Still sticking. It would turn but not pull out for the fog lights. I took it apart again and put it back together again slowly. I then noticed that the black centre pin on the back cover was very tight going into the white central shaft of the switch. For some reason either the black pin had swollen up very slightly or the white shaft had shrunk. They were both spotless so it wasn't dust etc. I got a small nail emery board and started rubbing down the black pin. As its recessed I had to sand it along the pin instead of round it. It took a wee while. Once it was reduced slightly in diameter to fit, I cleaned it, applied a tiny amount of grease and fitted the back cover back on. It works perfectly now. The switch mechanism was all fine, it was just that the pin was tight in the shaft which prevented the fog lights from being switched on. Hopefully this will help others with switch problems. BTW that saved me 90 quid. Cheers Dave

spoke to skoda dealer who checked with skoda technical. It turns out the retainer clips come fitted to the wiring and plug connector at just over 21 quid each. I will check out breakers yards first.

Thanks guys. I spoke to skoda. A new one is 90 quid. I am going to take my switch out and try and loosen the fog light bit off a bit. The MOT is due near the end of the month so got a wee bit of time to footer with it. I may yet require to replace it.

Hi All I have lost the h7 bulb retainer clips when I fitted LED's. Skoda don't list them. They are like the ones in the attached pics. Any idea where I can get the correct ones? Cheers Dave

Hi All My headlight switch is sticking for putting the fog lights on. It failed MOT for that a couple of years back but I sprayed it with silicon spray and it fixed it in a few minutes and it passed the MOT. It is sticking again but the spray isn't making much difference this time so I want to replace it. The problem is the part number on it 1Z0941431K comes up with a switch with "Auto" etc on it but I want a like for like basic one as in the attached picture. Where can I get one? What happens if I put the newer style one on if I don't have auto light sensors etc? Cheers Dave

205x55x16 gives a very close circumference to the VRS 225x40x18 for speedo accuracy. We have 205x55x16 winters (Conti WinterContact) on the VRS and the 16's fit over the calipers fine.