0wl

Further to the above post by Flapperjack7, when you lock your car (using a single click of the remote only), does the drivers door red LED keep flashing or flash initially and then stay constantly lit? If it stays constantly lit there is a fault somewhere in the system. If you are able to get your car scanned with VCDS you can check the last 4 alarm activation causes by checking measuring block group 20 in the central convenience module. The triggers are shown as numbers and if you hover your mouse pointer over them, VCDS will display an explanation as to what they refer to. If it is the interior monitoring sensor that is triggering the alarm, you can adjust / reduce the sensitivity via the Adaptation function under Advanced Functions of the central convenience module (however see below for how to clean it before changing the sensitivity as it could just be dusty or a bad connection). The above vcds check is what I did on my pre-fl mk2 and it revealed that in my case it was the alarm siren module that was at fault - the backup battery in the siren had leaked. If you find it is a problem with your interior monitoring sensor you can try removing, cleaning and reinstalling the interior monitoring sensor as per post 8 by Mike Holroyd in this thread (might be worth trying this anyway if you don't have access to vcds): http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/128706-anti-theft-alarm-systeminterior-monitor-error/

To disable the interior alarm sensor you're better off pressing the button on the b / door pillar next to the drivers seat. Pressing the lock button twice on the remote also disables the deadlocks which might not be what you want.

286 x 12mm is the correct size. You should find code 1KP listed on the options sticker in your service book / the sticker on the floor of your boot to the top left of the spare wheel.

What age/year is your vrs? Pre-FL or post-FL? Which of the following codes are on the options sticker in the boot? 1KD, 1KF, 1KP, 1KS or 1KT

That's the tensioner and the tensioner stud is what it is mounted on.

Have a read of this, it gives a good overview of the main causes of disc brake judder: http://www.powerbrake.co.za/downloads/tech_01_judder.pdf

You might have a faulty alarm siren. They technically should be changed at 6 years old if they don't fail before then as they have a rechargeable battery pack in them that tends to leak as they age.

Another option is using a wiper arm puller such as this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380978299549

The Syntium 5000 AV is 5W30 so is quite thin. The list I linked to is what I compiled from VW's data. Since I compiled the original list VW have updated their lists. The latest 505.01 list is linked below, although in typical VW fashion the list isn't error free, as an example this list states the Euro Car Parts PD oil is 5W30 but it is actually 5W40: https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50200_50500_50501.pdf

I use Petronas 3000AV 5w40 as it is easy to get locally from eurocarparts and reasonably priced. It is also on the VW approved oils list (505.01) as is the Triple QX PD oil. If you are interested in using "approved" oils, I've put together this list of VAG approved oils that I originally posted in the Octavia Mk2 section (scroll to the 505.01 section which I've split by Viscosity): My original link didn't work, but the list is in this post: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/320854-octavia-mk2-engines-dpfs-cambelts-oils-brakes-and-servicing-info/

507.00 is always 5W30. There is a school of thought that 5W40 in 505.01 form gives better protection for PD TDI engines due to the huge contact pressures between the relatively narrow camshaft lobes and the flat tappets / lifters. This American site is a useful reference source: http://www.myturbodiesel.com This page in-particular talks about oils - read the camshaft wear issues section: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/engine-oil-list-for-tdi-diesel/

For the fog light, have you tried eurocarparts?

Yes I meant a Skoda or VW dealer - I was just pointing out you should be able to get the 2 parts you need for less than the £11 for that ebay item. As an example: http://www.shop4volkswagen.co.uk/search,b.html?q=000979020E http://www.shop4volkswagen.co.uk/search,b.html?q=1j0973802

Happy Birthday, Colin. Hope you've had a great day.

My suggestion of a worn camshaft was based on the struggles idling and increased fuel consumption at idle. Has the operation of the turbo and vacuum system been checked? Rotodiesel is one of the resident experts on these engines, hopefully he'll be able to give you some suggestions if he reads your thread.

Difficult to tell from a side on view. It looks about right, but the rubber boot they've put on covers the slot on the neck of the connector used to hook the wiring onto the side of the hub housing to stop it hanging loose. I think you'll find the connector and wire I gave the part numbers for are only about £2-3 each at a dealer, however you would still need some heat shrink tubing or tape to wrap the wires which the item you linked seems to have sorted already.

Google 1j0973802 for the connector, the repair wire is 000979020E (see this US website http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2530 ). I'm assuming it is the car side loom / connector that is broken rather than the cable / connector from the pad. This might be of use to you re looking up parts: http://www.partscats.info/skoda/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=sk&number=81&

I think this is the type of thing you are looking for: http://www.skodaparts.com/product/octavia-wiring-set-for-speed-sensor-and-brake-wear-indicator-front-left-2004-2013-30414 Make sure you call them to confirm it fits your car before ordering. You can also buy repair wires / connectors separately but the above option is easier.

What does your car sound like, is it making a hammering noise? - I'm thinking your camshaft / lifters could be worn. Have a read of this page and listen to the noises the faulty engines make in the videos towards the bottom of the page and compare to your own engine. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/camshaft-lobe-wear-inspection-and-replacement-on-tdi-pd-engine/ The above page shows you how to take the cam cover off and check the condition of the cams if you want to check the camshaft yourself. What service regime has your car had, has it been serviced on time with the correct oils etc? Do you have access to VCDS?

Unfortunately you bought the one engine in the range that has a major issue. I'm sure others on here can describe the issue better, but in summary as I understand it the oil pump on your engine is driven via a hex shaft / drive that rounds off leading to the oil pump no longer turning and a destroyed engine. If you try searching this forum you should find other examples of your issue and potential options as to how to proceed. Try searching for oil pump or balance shaft

Is your car a 2.0 pd tdi?

Have you looked at the inboard pads on the front brakes, it can happen that the outboard pads have plenty of wear left when the inboard pads are worn out.

Your description sounds like the console bushes and yes lots of people have changed them. Most people either replace the full console bush (aluminium housing with bush inside) or press the bush out of the housing and just replace that. If doing DIY, the first option is easier, but costs a little more. Look on eurocarparts, put your reg in and look for the suspension bushes section, you'll probably find something similar to this: http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_2.0_2007/p/car-parts/suspension-and-steering/suspension/suspension-bushes/?610441425&1&bf8ea4edc70964a5b37487ea768ec814d76d8133&000437 The above is a left hand bush, but might not be the exact one for your car though, make sure you lookup the correct parts (left and right) using the reg number search function.

Given that my understanding of the factory service manual is that it doesn't specify time limits at all for the cambelt, only mileage intervals, I expect you are correct.For clarity of those asking about the mileage intervals, they are outlined for each engine in my post linked at the start of this thread. Check your options sticker in the boot or on your service book for your engine code.

Hi Clive, welcome, The rear brake caliper pistons have to be wound back, ideally with an appropriate tool. I got a set similar to this a few years ago, and it includes both left and right handed thread wind back tools and adapters for most cars: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PISTON-REWIND-CALIPER-WIND-BACK-TOOL-KIT-22-PCS-21PCS-34PCS-/251057931956?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a743806b4 Have a browse on eBay etc, the above is just the first one I spotted. The Superb rear brakes need a right hand threaded tool from memory. 0wl