bk1

Thanks guys. I removed it the other day, tipped out the 3/4 inch of water, hairdryer-d it for 10 minutes to evaporate the rest, ran clear silicon along the (slightly-mouldy coloured) edges and popped it back in. Was nice and easy to take out with just the one hex screw and a gentle shove from behind after twisting the bulb holder out. Will keep an eye on it after the next downpour. Thanks again, B

Thanks - wasn't sure if the indicators could only be swapped out if bumper came off. I haven't done cambelt+waterPump+tensioner (at only 42k miles but 6 yrs old) so was tempted to get dealer to do it all in one go unless indicator is straightforward. On the 1999 A3 I had, I think indicators were "trapped" by bumper and I waited until 60k miles before cambelt, etc. Cheers, B

Hi, Octavia MkI, 2004 estate. I've noticed condensation in my passenger (onside) front indicator recently, but today (after light rain all afternoon) I see about 1/2 an inch of water in there! Not sure how it's getting in but assume a crack near the top close to the bonnet or something. Anyone else had this? Cheers, B

I have the pop-up "holder" underneath the armrest in my 04 Octavia Elegance, but never use it as my elbow would send any drink flying. I did find that wedging a water bottle in the seat adjustment lever of the passenger seat works ok, and cans of drink can be wedged in the door pocket.

Pollen filter under the nearside (passenger) wiper is probably full of leaves and junk. When this happens the thing can allow water to flow down the cabin/engine panel into the passenger footwell. Common problem. Clean the pollen filter out and that should cure it.

I think I've got a service due soon (waiting for DIS to tell me - I'm on variable) so I'll make a point of raising it then. I really wouldn't have looked unless I'd seen these posts, so many thanks everyone.

Did you have any luck? Checked my 2004 estate last night and saw first signs of bubbling under the paint, small (like 2mm across) but the start of a problem.

Isn't there quite a chance the paint will heat up and the fumes gas you while you drive? Nice way to go.

Car seems to be performing a little bit better this week - even though it's icy out there each morning and traffic is bad. I found my tires were all down to 25 or 26 psi so got them up to 31 on the front and 30 on the back and that definitely seemed to make an immediate difference to the mpg. Probably jumped from mid 20's to low 30's on the instantaneous readout. I'll know the full story when I refuel of course.

On problem 1, I had something similar: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia-i/jerky-when-cold-then-warms-up/55314/ On problem 2, I had a problem with the guage not showing "full" when I had filled up the tank. I got the dealer to check it all and I think they corrected the float/meter in the tank and then it behaved. Might be worth asking a dealer to do that. I know they had to get to the sensor in the fuel tank (I believe access is a black circular panel under the right-hand rear seat. Don't do it yourself though.) and my car stank of fuel for a few days after, but they fixed the problem. Can't tell if you are describing a guage that behaves but a driver information system that is getting the distance estimate wrong. I guess the distance estimate is based on your mpg. Not sure.

Joking - nothing dropped off. The main thing it dropped was all the LHM fluid one day. That was fun. Oh, and the time a loose battery connection meant that when I opened the window at 80mph on a twisty road, the engine cut out. That was fun too. So, back on topic - (18 months or so since last post), anyone got any more idea on why this headlight dim happens? It still does it and it still annoys me.

Are you sure you're not on variable servicing?

Like I say, check the lambda sensors so you can cross them off the list.

Hang on - have you investigated Lambda (oxygen) sensors (in the exhaust, I think one either side (i.e. upstream and downstream) of the catalytic converter). If they are not reading correctly then they can definitely affect fuel control. These can be checked using Vagcom.

Normally I'd say it was the MAF and/or a gunked up throttle body, but you say you've replaced both, so it can't be them. I know that on my old cable-throttle Audi 1.8T I could watch the throttle body adjusting itself to control the mix, and the mechanic explained how crap builds up over time and prevents the valve having the full range of motion that it needs. That's why a good clean often helps jerky idles. I'm afraid I don't have anything else to suggest, but if it was me then I'd be thinking that my next route would be to find out if the ECU is messing about, and I'd end up going to an audi/vw/skoda specialist to get their thoughts on it, maybe ask if they'd be willing to lend me an ECU to try or something.