Vagophile

Doh! I discussed this with a friend who has a friend who works in a garage. First thing he said was did I turn on the ignition when the sensor was disconnected. Answer - yes, to test starter motor. F of f said that was probably the cause of light showing and it should clear. The Autel tool wouldn't clear it, but f of f's all singing all dancing computer did. Problem solved! Thanks for your reply sepulchrave, it gave me confidence to drive until the problem was fixed.

I need help! Yes, I mean with my car. I had a problem with the starter motor not turning over, after finding nothing with their diagnostic tool, homestart got the motor to turn by knocking the solenoid with a long rod, but said a new motor was likely to be required. To get access to the starter motor I had to remove the battery box, to do that I first had to remove the air filter housing. Having already bought a replacement starter motor and fitted it, I found that the solenoid trigger wire was broken beneath the insulation! With the wire repaired and everything put back together, the EPC fault light came up and stayed on with engine running. I used an Autel VAG 305 scan tool to get the fault code 17552 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit open/short to ground. When I replaced the starter motor, I removed the air mass meter wiring plug and replugged it at the end, so I don't think there is a problem there.The only other wiring involved in what I did is a connector held on a plate fixed to the lower starter motor fixing bolt. This plate was a bit stubborn to move, so I guess that the wiring might have been given some rough treatment when the motor was replaced. Before I brave the elements again and crawl back under the car (groan), my question is, does this wiring have anything to do with the MAF circuit? A second question is, given the fault, is the car driveable without repair, or will damage result if it's not rectified soon?

Thanks guys. I have done a lot of rooting around on various sites now and come to the conclusion that the compilation of part numbers could form the basis of a doctorate study for someone on an automotive course at university! I'm still none the wiser,- well, a little- some sites with a compatibility checker give 6Q2819015C and G as being compatible, but I agree with Wino that the best bet is the original part number, one of which I've found and ordered from a company that specialises in these, to the extent of doubling the asking price for mine (6Q2820015G) over the price for 6Q2819015C on account of the relative rarity of the former. My researches have revealed everything from added or deleted plastic pins and cable ties on the body, cable anchorages rotated through various angles and significantly differing female connector blocks. While my connector would probably fit some of these, it's not worth risking for a trivial saving. Here's looking forward to proper demisting again!

Thanks for that info.TMB, but I'm not looking for new. I suppose, as much as anything, I am asking will any of these other letter endings to the same main part number fit my car and if not, why not? What is the significance of a different end letter?

Hi everyone. From experience I know that for every question on this website a Briskodian will have an answer (or maybe a lot of answers!), so this is my question: I have removed a non-working heater blower motor from my car and am looking to source a "green" replacement, i.e. used. The old part has the number 6Q2820015G A1918 stamped on it. I have looked on e-bay and there are plenty of used blower motors for sale with the part number 6Q2820015, but there are a variety of end letters, A,BB,C,H etc. All the photos look like mine as far as I can tell, but obviously I can't compare them "in the flesh" with mine. One seller I rang said that the final letter does matter. He said that it might just be a plastic pin location, but it might be something drastic like the wiring plug socket.Can anyone give a definitive answer? Here's hoping!

I used the info referenced by TMB. Very comprehensive apart from the release of the door lock feed.To release the electric feed I used a fairly broad and thin bladed kitchen knife and inserted it up the inside of the connector to allow the external body to slide over the tang. It worked! (2 hours wasted prior to this). Complete mechanism purchased from ECP. Replacement rivets purchased from local Skoda dealer relatively cheaply and I used a heavy duty riveter to re attach the assembly. The re-attachment required quite a lot more effort with the riveter than I expected!

My renewal quote this year including breakdown was £432 (£412 last year). I didn't review the market last year, but decided to this year. I tried two companies that advertise here, one said they wouldn't even try to beat the quote I had, the second offered like for like for £375. I was also given a like for like quote of £365 from A plan (who I've used before). Dougie says about his renewal quote: "normally I'd call Flux and get them to match it", something I could do, but I think that this is a slightly dubious business practice although it does ensure that the original broker retains as much profit as possible and the buyer seems to be getting the best deal. Certainly the premium is not the only consideration, but in my case, I found that the "basic" premium to the broker was £296, so they had a fair bit to play with. By them being (I think), just a little bit too greedy, I went with a company that seemed to be making a genuine effort to get my business. Whatever, it won't stop me asking for a quote next year, but it just reinforces my view that business ethics have descended into a "dog eat dog" world.

Thanks to all who replied. Now I know!

Hi all, I've been off here for a fair while. Last week I decided to change the oil on my 04 VRS (only 1900 miles in a year!). This is the second time I' ve changed the oil on this car and the last time I did it I didn't change the sump plug washer, just gave it a cursory inspection and put everything back together, tightening the drain plug to 30Nm and there were no leaks. This time I expected to replace the sump plug washer and picked up a copper washer at my motor factors along with oil and filter. The copper washer was sold as "fits all the small VAG cars". When I looked at the washer on the sump plug, it appeared to be aluminium and was a tight fit on the shaft, it couldn't be slipped off or "unscrewed". The new copper washer was quite a loose fit on the plug, about 1mm greater in diameter I would guess. I snipped the old washer off and used the copper washer on re-assembly, tightened to 30Nm. So far it's not leaking. On thinking about this, why was my sump plug washer aluminium and did it just reduce in diameter by compression, or are the sump plug and sealing washer sold by Skoda as one consumable item when replacement is required (I hav'n't asked them yet!). I have had previous experience of this where the rear brake line to caliper joint requires a complete assembly if the caliper joint sealing washer is damaged. Is there a difinitive answer? I'm sure that I will be enlightened by your collective knowledge!

Recently overtaken on A1 near Grantham by black Range Rover sporting K9 VET.

DRJ, relinquish your crown! I can't poll because I'm +2 years on the top age listed. Car is slightly modded, bought as part of "retirement" transport plan which includes motor home and Yamaha YZF600R. Recently accused of being a hooligan by Focus ST driver. (My wife agreed with him!). Why is age relevant? I agree about postings mostly the young and opinionated; don't bother much, but follow a few topics on mods etc. Insurance is £358 comp - I think it's starting to go up again because of age!

Newcastle optician with ICU 1 and ICU 2.

Me too. I've had the same plate since 1968. I always thought "non dating" registration plates would have a value one day. Youv'e no idea how difficult the DVLA made number transfer back then!

Yes, 67. Into 3rd year as Fabia vRS owner. The idea was to have a small car for my wife also a quick enough for me when scaling down from 2 car ownership. My normal transport was to be my Yamaha Thunderbird. What happens? We still have 2 cars! I think the vRS (especially Mk1) is an ideal car for the late teenage and twenty something crowd, ladies included. I'm always surprised by the number of student owners. P.S. When I was looking, I had the opportunity to buy SE Number 1 (for £8k I think), but didn't fancy it.

I had my renewal yesterday, my policy is through Adrian Flux. Renewal was £280.70, up from £257.00 last year. Then I told them about a claim for a tyre blowout on my motorhome last year. Result: +£50 on the premium, up to £330.70. Still, nobody else can touch the revised premium, but I'm still annoyed that a tyre blowout claim is treated as a fault accident. Such is life, some advantages to being "an old geezer" I suppose.

Look at the tyre date code. There is a great difference between "brand new" and "unused" .Many unused spares are 6 years old, and some manufacturers have now started advising a tyre change if the tyre is that age or older. I have just done what you are suggesting and am running two 5 year old Contisports. I might as well use them now, rather than throw them away in another year. I endorse what has been said about where to buy. How about Tesco?

I have had the ESP - ABS light problem for a few days. When I investigated, I found that the black connecting plug near the gearbox (the culprit identified on this thread), had a broken blue wire. This was not initially easy to spot, as it had broken right at the plug. I went to my local VAG breaker to get another plug and was told to take one from a recovered Fabia wiring loom. Would you believe that when we looked at it, this plug had the blue wire firmly fixed, but the green/pink second wire was broken about 1 cm from the plug end! Anyhow, enough to crimp a connection. All put back together and a test drive showed.... both bl**dy lights still showing after 10 mins running. At this point I lost patience, went to my local auto-electrician (Stonebridge Auto Electricians) and had them run a diagnosic check. Faulty brake switch, shown in two diagnostic fields. Bo**ocks! New switch £10.15, diagnosis 3x that! I'm wondering what will be next, as they usually come in threes. And I still havn't fixed the back door leak........

Torque It's quicker than other drivers think (even being driven by a pensioner in a beanie hat) I can find any part I want (including performance mods) at breakers, thanks to the way some people drive theirs..

Gocha now - self deprecating. Back to the original thread, how very serious is moisture absorbtion in brake fluid? What sort of percentage content is considered unacceptable?

Which Friday morning has a 21.00 hrs in it? I can only marvel at your so precise statement of population. Thank you God. Did you include Arab, African and Asian countries where the use of either side of the road is arbitrary?

Where did you intend to put it? It's had a good run here!

8.00 a.m. Sunday, three lane carriageway, no traffic, camera in van on bridge operated by speed camera partnership, £60 fine+3points for travelling 78 mph 11.00a.m. Boxing day, dual carriageway, no traffic, followed by unmarked patrol car, (picked up in r v mirror) stopped, informed speed was *** mph, breathalysed, A.OK, sent on my way with some words of advice. These events took place within the last 5 years and in different counties, but do illustrate the difference in attitudes. I for one am very cynical of the so called "safety camera partnerships" I drive a 156 hp Sprinter based motorhome and still get overtaken by white van man on dual carriageways. I would choose Germany as a place to drive: it's still possible to find completely unrestricted motorway and it's certainly used as intended with pretty disciplined drivers. 120mph+ is not uncommon.

at the end of the day we live in ripoff Britten were we pay more for everything i remember when i started driving 5 years ago i was paying 80p a ltr for fuel not it's £1.26 last time i checked :'( As we're talking about remembering... I remember when I started driving 50+ years ago, I could buy 3 GALLONS of petrol for 10 bob. (that's 3.7 pence a litre).... And woodbines were a farthing for 20.... I made the last bit up, (but not the first bit). One year's wages would have just about have covered the insurance premiums being talked about here....

Yes, ASZ engine Never bothered about how far on a tank, but I can get to Newcastle and back without a fill.(from Peterborough) There was a time when I could have told you precisely, but I have decided that life is too short to worry about it, and I don't particularly drive economy run style. I would not do what you suggest re accelerating in 5th &6th below 2k rpm. It's not my driving style and I think it's a job for 4th gear (but only my opinion!).