Titanium_Man

Depends how handy you are. If you’re not, don’t bother.

About half hour labour plus cost of part.

I reckon you need to find out exactly what the advisory is for as it could be something that you can do yourself and save the calliper. As for your questions; no need to replace the other calliper if it’s functioning perfectly, and any correctly sized calliper will do as the colour won’t affect the performance That said, you’ll possibly find a green calliper on eBay.

It could simply be the bulb is on its last legs. The filament may look ok but could be very thin in a spot. If you take the bulb out and compare it to a brand new one you might just see a very slight black tinge to the bulb that isn’t obvious until the old one is next to a new one. For the sake of a couple of quid, just change the bulb for a brand new one and all should be well again.

I’ve not heard or read someone putting bigger one on, but that’s not to say it’s not been done. I removed mine when I had LCR Brembos on, largely as they pretty much fell apart on me and didn’t bother replacing. I did remove the guard on the rears and flattened them out to take the 256mm rear discs, which was easy enough. Is there enough metal for you to make it larger.... I can’t remember tbh!

The disc size for the LCR is 323mm vs the 288mm on the fabia. You could try and manipulate what you’ve got already?

No last stage protection has been applied to this black MK2 Fabia vRS, just the Blackfire SRC finishing polish. Not the best beading I’ve had, but not bad for naked paintwork

This MK2 Fabia vRS has just been saved from the scrappie... exhaust valve had 1/4 of it missing and customer didn’t wanna pay for the work to be done so sold it to the garage I work at for a very good price!

Crap, wrong thread

MK2 Fabia vRS

I still have the same silver Fabia that I had when I said that I would come to one of the first ones your arranged all those years ago (which I never made ) Me and the wife would be up for it

Spent a bit of time this evening trying to locate a heavy knock from the front passenger side and noticed contact marks on the spring.... I don’t suppose anyone with these can take a picture of the sticker on the shock to see if the numbers match mine?!? I can get my hand between the wheel and the arch, so I know I’m not all that low. I would also be interested if any guys with a MK2 vRS with these on could take a pic

I assume you’ve got a calliper rewind tool?! What silicon line you using .... I bought my seal kit from Bigred, which came with red grease.

I would start furthest away from the master cylinder. I.E LHR calliper first and work round the car anti clockwise. Last time I refreshed the brake fluid on my I simply drew about 1/2 ltr through each calliper. However, I have a big pressure bleeder so I could do it on my own and didn’t have to keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. You don’t want that emptying and drawing air into the system.

I was the same, hence why I rebuilt my front calliper rather than buying a new one. You'll need to check the condition of the piston and the hole it sits in for a buildup of rust. If there's too much in there you may have to buy a new calliper anyway. I hope you've caught it in time so all you have to do is give them a good clean with a wire wheel on a drill

I would price up a seal kit and new piston vs a new calliper, assuming you have the tools to do the work yourself.... but potentially, yeah, calliper may need replacing

I eluded to a sticking piston in my first reply

I don’t know of any guides that you can follow, but the calliper will need to be removed to replace the seal. As it’s a manual handbrake, the piston will need to be wound right out and removed so the seal can be replaced, then wound back in. Again, this is an assumption as I’ve not done it on a rear calliper yet, it do have two that I intend to strip and rebuild at some point (from a MK1 Octavia vRS)

It will need to be replaced ASAP as it prevents water and other crap getting to the brake piston. Corrosion can cause the piston to stick on...... I've changed this seal on several front callipers, but one on the rear TBH, but guess it is a similar process, depending on the type of calliper is on your car. EG is it operated electronically or by cable.

I ended up taking the angle grinder & diamond cutting disc to the drive shaft, which took ages! After over an hour of cutting, it was out. On the Friday I removed the front end so I could easily get to all the wiring plugs, vacuum lines and air con pipes. I did press in a screw driver on the two air con connectors to see if there was any refrigerant, which I didn't expect there to be as I could see that the condenser had been leaking as there was dye on the rear of it. I put my tools down at 5pm with everything unclipped and cable tied out of the way ready for the engine to be removed on the Saturday. This included the exhaust to turbo bolts that I expected to be a right PITA, but had soaked them with WD40 he day before and came out no bother. I borrowed my lodgers Transit Connect on the Saturday morning so I could pickup the engine crane. A 10 pack of Stella for the man in charge was all it cost me. Happy days! Couldn't do anymore as my lodger needed the van early afternoon to move some stock for a pub from Bristol to Cardiff. Didn't take me long on Sunday morning to get the engine out, which my wife was unknowingly & eagerly watching from above ... Zee was chomping at the bit to get involved in some way shape or form Snug as a bug in a rug Drove it over to my place of work, unloaded then serviced my mates car whilst I was there This week is college week, which is done over 'tinterweb due to Covid. It was a simple recap on Ohms & Watts law followed by a 17 question test, so was done in 10 minutes, all by 11:30am. This gave me chance to put the front back together ready for the car to be towed away. I've requested a couple of quotes from online companies offering to take away scrap cars but will need to speak to a real person to explain that the engine, 'box and front callipers are missing, and one of the drive shafts has been cut to see if it makes a difference to the £177 quote I received from them initially. I've kept the fog lights, starter motor, the battery fuses & the other fuses, MAF and these two, which I am sure will come in handy :P Now, I'm undecided what to the with the Brembo's. They don't need to be serviced / rebuilt but do need to be repainted. I've looked at companies who want a couple of hundred quid for them to be sent off and professionally sorted. Money I haven't really got given the parts I need to buy, plus the lower sills need sorting. I did come across a company called BCS Automotive who can send me their paint and offer a 2 year guarantee so long as I provide them with before, during and after pics to show I've followed their process to enable the guarantee. This aint bad for £37 and sounds like that it will give me enough paint for the spare rear Octavia vRS callipers I have in sat in my garage that I keep meaning to strip and rebuild. I'm not sure on self-paint option as I don't wanna have to keep painting them TBH. The alternative is selling them as they are as it would give me some funds for me to start the head rebuild I want to do. I've got a pot of £1200, £800 of which has already been spent on a clutch and flywheel I'm probably gonna spend the rest of that on getting the sills sorted. I have been building up my welding skills, but want this done properly, so will leave it to a professional. That's it for now

Like a lot of people, I returned from furlough in June, which was very welcome! I serviced my car in September as wanted a good look round to make sure the oil leak had gone, which it has However, been noticing blue smoke on startup getting worse. Oil consumption has also been terrible. So bad that on a couple of trips to Norwich I had to top-up before setting off for Bristol, which I've never had to do in the nearly 10 years I've owned this car. My first thought was valve stem seals, but decided to remove the oil catch-can as a free process of elimination, which has immediately done the trick. I haven't thought too long or hard about this, just happy that the blue smoke has pretty much disappeared and oil consumption is back to normal, which is pretty much nil. As the knocking has gotten worse, I had another butchers as it was our MOT tester that diagnosed the drivers side steering arm that was making the noice. He claimed to be able to feel very slight movement in it, but I could not in all honesty. After checking all bolts to ensure they were tight, a pry bar to make sure all the poly bushes were sound and drop links were still solid, I came across this; Can't decide if the knock is just the track rod or both. Can do both for about £14, but the motor factors want to know what rack I have on there as there are apparently two options? Regardless, not had the time to take a proper look at the rack. Due to having three months off, Covid killing the festival scene for the year & international travel until July, I had not used any of my annual leave. That said, I did manage to get away for my 40th at the start of September for 10 days So, rather than lose it, I took last week off to do a few bits that I've been putting off. Which leads me to this; My black vRS has been taking up our parking bay for several years now and decided now was the time to get it moved. Initially, the plan was to take off the Brembo's & long-ration gearbox, which would eventually end up on my silver vRS. As I didn't have anywhere to keep the engine it was gonna go the scrapheap in the sky along with the rest of the car. I started last Monday, which as you can see was raining! Not constant, thankfully, so did manage to get the brakes off, battery & tray, intake and airbox out between the rain, rainbows and hale! I had forgotten just how big & heavy these things are! Despite being a home for local wildlife for the last few years, the pistons were very easy to push back, which was needed as the lip on the discs stopped me from just pulling them away once the two bolts were removed. I immediately thought of the Merc AMG 4-pot callipers I worked on a few weeks ago, which are much, much lighter The following day I set about making room for the 'box to be removed from the engine. I knew that the diff had to be rotated upwards & the off-side drive shaft coupling had to be removed to get it out, so removed the starter and cracked the inner shaft bolts to make the room I needed.... Decided at this point that the gear shifter tower also needed to be removed to avoid catching the various looms, so out it came I also dropped the gear oil so I could remove the coupling. The oil looked and smelled brand spanking new, which it should do as this 'box was rebuilt at a cost of £1600, 25k miles before I took it off the road. Happy nonetheless. I had promised the wife I would do some bits in the house on the Tuesday, so that was it for the day ...... I also needed a 36mm socket and long bar so I could get the hub nuts off, which I didn't have at this point. My biggest concern about removing it was not having someone experienced with me. Not because I don't know what I am doing, more that this is pretty heavy and therefore not a one man job. As soon as you remove the box off the little dowels it could catch you out if you're not expecting it. Bless her, my wife offered to lend me a hand getting it out, but there is also not a lot of room working under axle stands. I went to football that evening with my boss and had a chat about removing the 'box. He couldn't believe I was gonna leave the engine in the car, so explained the storage issue (I hadn't asked him about keeping it at work as I know space is very limited) and lack of engine crane. After talking it through, he said that if I could get it to the garage I could keep it there, so long as it wasn't going to be "years and years". Awesome! Wednesday was a family day, so me, Zee and her mum went out for the day, which involved two different restaurants and many apples being consumed! We wanted to have this day as the country was going to start another national lockdown the following day. I managed to get over to work just after midday to collect the two tools I needed and see if I could borrow an engine crane from the garage across the road. After a few cuppas and catchup, I headed home to find that the socket would not fit as it was too thick. Out came the angle grinder As I had already taken off the calliper I couldn't shove a screwdriver in the brake disc, so had to find another way of removing the inner shaft bolts and hub nut The drivers side came out pretty easily, but the passenger side was a different story Whoever installed the drive shaft had rounded off the hub nut

You did well getting it without removing it

No, there really isn’t anything to it. Make sure you remove that 17 on the side and it should just a push in, maybe with a little wiggle

I simply lined it up as it came out, pushed & wiggled it in.