Titanium_Man

No engine update, but this happened on Friday T055er didn’t leave a note or anything Wanting to cheer myself up, I cracked out a tool that I’ve had for a few years but not used up to this point. The dent you can see in the below pic has been on the car since pretty much the first week I got the car, which can been seen on the first page of this build. Very happy it’s now gone

Sorry JR, but it wasn’t clear to exactly where he was in the job. No need to try and make me feel like a dumb a55. I think I’ll leave it to you from here on in

.... and has the bottom ball joint been removed from the bottom of the hub? Sorry for all the questions but trying to work out exactly where you are with this!?

I assume you’ve removed the three (I’m sure it’s three!) multi-spline bolts from the back of the hub? Also, have you pulled the drive shaft out of the hub?

So, I started to strip down my spare engine probably about three weeks ago, 5 minutes here and there removing the various bolt on parts like the turbo, aircon compressor, fuel lines etc. A few weeks went by without touching it as we were mental in work and have been keeping my weekends free as Zee is still working from home. Things really went off the boil at work two weeks ago, so managed to spend a couple of hours stripping the head. Wasn't looking forward to pulling the injectors out as I don't think I've seen a single one come out easily in the early two years of working in a garage, even by very seasoned professionals, so I chose to try something I haven't seen done by my mentor yet .... Gotta love a cable tie! I used a long bar to free up the injector by wriggling side to side, then used the cable tie to pull up as I wiggled. Simples! Once these were out the rest was pretty much plain sailing with only the removal of the valves the only thing I was unsure of at this point. Overall, the cam wasn't in bad condition considering the engine has done 187k. This was the only mark I found .... These have clearly seen better days! .... and this was what the underside looked like after a very quick wipe down, before the valves came out Halfway through valve removal and out ..... .... all stripped, cleaned and ready to be sent off for testing and quick skim One paperweight, put to one side ... and one useful long-ratio 'box sat ready to be touched Back in work on Tuesday and will get the head sent off and get some parts ordered. I'm hoping to have this rebuilt in the next two weeks, but we will see This does seem like a lot of work just to change the leaking valve stem seals, but this type of work doesn't come up often and will look good in my college portfolio of work! Time has seriously flown as I only have two more block weeks left at college, then I'm all finished Until next time .......

Has it really been 5 months since I updated this Well, after unceremoniously dumping the engine and 'box at the back of the garage at work, 10 days later my black Skoda was no longer taking up my much needed parking space It left a bit of a mess, of course After sorting out the mess, I popped over to work and changed both track rod ends and nearside tie rod, put on two new tyres and sorted the tracking out It's now much quieter on the road... hurrah! Both front windows stopped working again, this time for good! I did spend a god amount of time working through the various potential causes and settled on the drivers window motor being the cause. I rang TPS for a quote for a replacement .... £191! At this price I wanted to be 100% sure that my diagnosis was right. So, I waited, and waited and waited until the auto electrician we get in for major electrical issues was called in next, cost me a tenner for him to go through his own checks but agreed it was the window motor. As we were chatting he mentioned that it was possible that the solder joints inside the unit had broken, so I opened up the old unit and re-soldered and re-installed, but still no joy. Martin doing his thing .... Yay, an open window!! More to follow when I've got a bit more time ....... cylinder head strip down was started

No fitting kit needed for the Cupra R Brembo brakes as they bolt straight on to where the standard calliper carrier bolts to. I believe you will need a fitting kit for the Porsche brakes, which can be bought from several tuning companies, Ebay etc

I had the same .... handbrake on MOT test was ok but the foot brake failed. When I took it all apart, the very first bit of movement was very stiff and freed up once I had done my thing. The foot brake doesn’t pull the silver arm as much as pulling up the handbrake, so pressing the foot brake wasn’t strong enough to get passed the initial sticking point. Not saying this is 100% your issue, but the symptoms are the same as I had last week.

No, I’m mean the actual silver arm attached to one of the shoes ......

Bank 1 means cylinder number one. If the issue is with the plug and you move it to cylinder 2 the code will move with it and show as bank 2.

I’d start with moving either the plug to another position (after deleting the code) and see if moves with it.

When were the plugs last changed / when was the last full service?

Then the emissions had to be within tolerance during the MOT and NO engine management light on the dash otherwise it would have failed.

It could be an intermittent problem that wasn’t apparent during the MOT, hence the pass.

How free is the actual handbrake arm (can’t think of the correct, technical term for it!) inside the drum?? I had a very similar problem on a car last week that I fixed by removing the shoe that its attached to and freed it up in a vice with a bit of oil and some brute force back and forth.

Not hard at all. Iirc ... 3 torx screws at the bottom of the door card, three large Phillips screws behind the arm rest and one torx behind the interior door handle. I’ve gotta move my car in a minute and will amend the above of it isn’t correct.

I have checked and they’re not blocked.

It is usually the rear seals that leak ...... but I do have evidence of water leaking from my drivers door speaker...... but £200 is stupid money! An hours labour and maybe a fiver for some silicone if you get a garage to do it, but it’s easy

If you have this carrier on the rears (middle pic) you won’t have to take the carrier off to remove the disc, if it’s not like this then you will need to remove the carrier to take the docs off (the carrier on the right of the pic ) ....

Iirc it does depend on the disc type being a solid disc and the carrier not overlapping the discs too much when in position (if that makes sense!) I’m gonna google it and see what I can see .....

Post a pic and I’ll be able to tell ya ..... my gut is to say you’ll have you take the carrier off

No, it doesn’t include the backing plate. Just the meat of the pad has to be more than 1.5mm to pass an MOT.

The pipe attached to the back of the small drain hole just under the screw cap has become detached. Take out the arch liner and reattach it, like I had to ....

Ive got a door window issue and went to speak a local WV scrappie to see if I could find a window motor.... he told me that the difference between the old and the new IS down to the differing connector block. You will 100% have to make sure you get the correct part numbered window motor. @Winois Bob-on, as usual.

This is why I said don’t bother if the OP is not handy with the tools. A poor tool kit would also put me off the job. The safety element really can’t be overstated! Here’s one I came across a couple of weeks ago