Titanium_Man

Have you tried taking off the lower engine mount so you can move the engine slightly to get the bolt out?

Welcome, fellow Bristolian

Any reason why you’ve started another thread on the same topic?!

The headlights themselves are plug and play. I swapped the halogen units on mine for Xenons, but not the level sensor or larger washer bottle. The reflectors/lens can and do fade over time, thus reducing their effectiveness. I have seen a post where someone was going to replace the reflectors/lens, but don’t recall if I read the end result?! @Lofty I has a great wealth of knowledge and may be able to offer more

I did come across a replacement sill piece for £80 on EBay but the blerb suggested it was made in China, so decided against it in the end. Got access to a body shop, so I would hope they have some tools to help with making the weld-in panel. Will check tomorrow whilst I’m on site. For the sake of clarity …. You said don’t get galvanised, instead get Zinc coated or Not zinc coated metal?

Nice to see something different on this forum as we don’t get many threads like this 😞 Not done anything like this until now, but got this job to do on mine this year, so subscribed Great work so far!

Been in my Kia Niro 2 (the newest one) since the end of October (I’ve got the hybrid version, not full electric) and done 7k miles in it…… it does have plenty of electric trickery…. So much so we’ve called it “Robot” (the registration number is the real reason for the name RO72VOP but still apt!) I’m not a fan of the ‘box myself. Feels more like an old-school auto box vs the modern DSG in the VAG’s. Does what it wants in manual mode and the engine very often will sit at 4k going up hills on motorways etc due to lack of grunt. Doesn’t make for a relaxing motorway journey if I am honest. I won’t put it in manual mode anymore as it’s so poo. Fuel economy sucks on a run, too. Did Bristol to Cornwall the other week for work with cruise set at 72 and managed 43mpg! I’ve found that on a motorway run it switches to electric charge mode often as the battery isn’t big enough to cope and needs frequent recharging. Superb fuel economy driving around Bristol city, which is where this hybrid is best used. Easily get 70mpg around town. Overall economy (calculated) is 53mpg, 54 shown on the dash trip computer. Got plenty more to say about it and had considered leaving a review but didn’t think there would be any interest 😛

When was the cambelt last done… could be the tensioner?

Could be some debris in the jet. Stick a pin in it, or remove the jet itself and soak it to see if performance improves. Might also be worth while pulling off the outlet pipe of the washer pump to make sure the gauze is not gummed up.

Do not buy the bottom one as it looks like you are going to be cutting away a lot of the crash bar, given the angle of the top connection to the ‘cooler. I’ve fitted an Airtec, which does also need cutting up the top part of the crash bar. Compare the two and you’ll get what I mean, and look through my build thread as there are pics showing how I went around it. As for fitting, it will all make sense when you take the front of your car is off. No guide needed really.

Of course, but experience has taught me that it is usually the heater itself at fault and not the wiring when the code specifically mentions “heater”. No mention of “heater” in the code usually means it’s something other than the O2 sensor itself.

Actually, the P denotes that the fault is within the power train system, and going one step further, when the code relates to the heater element specifically it usually means that the O2 sensor itself is the issue and not the wiring.

White smoke usually means coolant is getting into the combustion chamber.

Yup, sounds starter to me too.

No need for shortened drop links, unless you’re at the very bottom, which I wouldn’t suggest.

Now for the fun part ….. getting the seal back on the piston and back in the calliper

They’re pressed in / picked out. No glue is used at all. I’ve broken a few on removal as they were stuck tight.

I’m pretty sure that if the disc is vented, carrier has to come off, but the solid discs can be slid out with it in place, in most cases in my experience

Yup, it’s a gonner 😞 Personally, I wouldn’t drive it other than to the garage. When mine went, I really had to rev it to get the car to move just a bit, which may or may not have caused unnecessary damage or wear to the transmission had I forced the issue. I called a truck in the end rather than risk it.

Agree with JR, looks gone to me, but I would put a big bar on the dog bone / engine and move it to see how open those cracks get. Either way, I would replace it. Reckon a decent Indy would only change for an hour, maybe. I did it in less than an hour in a proper workshop.

First place I would look as the dog bone mount under the engine.

May be is some use m, if you‘be not come across this thread yet …

Would be worth spraying some wd40 or similar in where the buckle clips in, then blowing out with compressed air. These can get full of fluff and stuff. Might work, might not.

Yup, there’s always one! Tried to leave her there but she managed to keep up 🤣

A picture from our New Years walk to Pen Y Fan in the Brecon Beacons National Park earlier today.