BillN_33

certainly true of the 2 litre VAG diesel engine at slow speeds compared with a petrol engine ........ and can catch you out if you slow down to say near "walking pace" in third gear ........ the engine will stall with a thump and at that speed will not bump start, (rolling start) ....... you have to start the car using the key .......... my experience anyway

my winter wheels are 16" steel wheels ....... generally I prefer them to the 17" alloys cannot say why - they just "feel" better, especially in rain - probably because they have winter tyres fitted we have both a 4 x 4 and a 4 x 2 Yeti - so I have had the opportunity to compare then ........... certain opinion states that in WINTER conditions< (below 7 degrees), a 2WD car with winter tyres is "better" than a 4WD car with "summer" tyres ........ but that is a matter of opinion ...... and the usual moaners will argue both ways I am not a fan at all of "low" profile tyres in any conditions

open the bonnet and listen - try spraying a little WD40 around any clips holding "whatever" - does the sound go away or change

blocked drain holes - never had this problem Mike

I have no worries about buying a diesel - we have a couple of diesel Yeti's and I am now looking for a "good value" 170 to use in the UK. Do I believe all this "anti-diesel" hype - probably not .... and certainly not enough to change my mind

winter tyres work well with the Yeti in snow - they have saved me on three occasions in Northern France when many cars were stranded and some abandoned by the road side

most guys remap to drive faster - maybe 20% for better economy and smoother delivery, that the original does not give because the OEM map is to meet general conditions

Just take into account that the 170 have slightly different front brakes .. clearly Skoda think that they are advisable with the extra power 140 CR TDI 4x4 (plus DSG) Front disc = 288 x 25 Front calliper = 15" FN3 Rear disc = 286 x 12 Rear calliper = 16" CII 41 or (depending on build date) Rear disc = 272 x 10 Rear calliper = 15" Bosch BIRIII 170 CR TDI 4x4 Front = 312 x 25 Front calliper = 16" FN3 Rear disc = 286 x 12 Rear calliper = 16" CII 41 or (depending on build date) Rear disc = 272 x 10 Rear calliper = 15" Bosch BIRIII

I use these on my old cars which are not used in winter https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cocar-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Master/dp/B019XQRFNG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510403691&sr=8-1&keywords=car+battery+isolator also an additional security device ..albeit easy to see

Been reading thru all these very interesting I don't think that the following has been mentioned, (but if it has accept my apologises) .........if you leave the key in the ignition, (maybe with the engine switched on but not running), and you fill the car up with Diesel ...... you will not get a correct reading ......... it will not show FULL but just over half full ........ when this happened to me ......... I left the key in the ignition, switch on but not running ........... I thought that there was a problem with the sender in the tank and thought £££'s .......... it took a few hundred kms to correct itself never done it again (I found the answer on the web so it must happen to other cars)

The problem will be is that if you buy a used Yeti from a Skoda/VAG dealer it will have had the "fix" ... so the numbers will increase when they take them in as part ex I am about, (maybe?), to buy a used Yeti from a Skoda dealer as they have the best choice On initial enquiries I have asked the salesman if the car has had the "fix" can they reverse it if I bought a car ....... he could not give me an answer

Thanks - just what I needed - I'll look for a 140 or even a 170

so are you saying a). That the brakes on all three diesel models are different b). The brakes on the 140 and 170 are the same OR c). The brakes on the 110 and 140 are different I always thought that the brakes on the 110 and 140 were the same and that the 170 have different brakes

Don't Halfords promise to fit bulbs you buy from them for little or nothing?

first service - 2 years or 18,000 miles, whichever comes first ..... seems to be the "norm"

there are quite a few French registered Yeti's in Dept 33 and 24

I think that the 170 has bigger brakes .. which is important it's the differences between the 110 and 140 that I am after

Jonathan - we have two Yeti's in France - we keep receiving the "letters" but have not had the fix - I intend to keep it that way We used the Skoda "authorised" service garage in Bergerac - they do not appear to sell new Skodas but the have all the signs etc., to indicate that they are authorised by Skoda ... I much prefer them to the far bigger dealer in Bordeaux

if you do used a little loctite - I believe that the originals were treated with something similar

just slightly off topic at what depth do "winter tyres" become less effective - say, versus normal tyres with a deeper thread i.e. are almost new normal tyres more effective in winter than half used winter tyres?

Just replaced the battery on my March 2011 Yeti 140 4x4 and 90,000 kms - onset of winter - it just died always "conditioned" it twice a year with an optimate and checked regularly with a voltmeter, (or whatever are they called) and have always removed the battery if the car has stood for more than a couple of weeks, (trips back to the UK) with the diesel engine you will be in trouble starting if your battery is "down" - more so than with a petrol ...... and the diesel Yeti's are a bugger to "bump" start If it is older than 5 years, (check the build date, not the reg date), keep a close eye on it

We have a 140 and a 110 in France ........ I'm thinking about buying a used Diesel Yeti for the UK I much prefer the performance of the 140 over the 110 Can anyone tell me if there are any mechanical differences between the 140 and the 110 apart from the gearbox and bhp difference The choice of used 110's around is better than 140's and I may as well get a 110 and have it "chipped" if I cannot find a good used 140 ....... I want to spend about £10k

another list of articles that tell how bad the situation could be and the future problems that could occur with the EGR value post fix https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/dieselgate/the-volkswagon-group-is-systematically-refunding-owners-for-egr-failures-after-the-emissions-fix presumably the problems will continue after a new EGR value is fitted ..... resulting in EGR values having very short working lives It would seem to me that if you have had the fix and have problems, VAG on balance will do very little, (and the more they do the worse it could be!), - so a re-map is the only, (?) alternative ......... or to sell your car I really like the Yeti, we have 2 in France - I will keep clear of EA189

I have been looking around for a Yeti for the UK, to use when we are here ....... I want a diesel Dealer prices seem to be very similar between Skoda Authorised dealers - i.e. similar spec cars are advertised at similar prices. It seems as if they have an "internal" Skoda used Yeti book that they refer to to obtain a price ...... the sticker price on some used vehicles that I have looked at can also vary significantly versus the AT internet price ...... Can the fix, if applied, be annulled with a remap? (A salesman at quite a sizeable dealership told me that they had not had any problems with Yeti's after the fix .... I mentioned Limp Mode and EGR ....but he would say that wouldn't he - he said he had heard of problems with VW cars, but they had had none)

Just a question ..........Has anyone checked the Insurance Company's position on the fix? ......... if dealers and VAG are saying that it should be done ...... is it ever a condition of insurance that all manufacturers recalls etc., should be done?