gsp

Deactivating the function daylight driving lights – Pull the turn signal light lever towards the steering wheel up to 3 seconds after switching on the ignition and at the same time, slide it to the bottom and hold it in this position for at least 3 seconds. Activating the function daylight driving lights – Pull the turn signal light lever towards the steering wheel up to 3 seconds after switching on the ignition and at the same time, slide it to the top and hold it in this position for at least 3 seconds.

Assuming you means the bulbs on the side of the headlight cluster then yes if you have separate DRLs I think the current legislations states you cannot have DRLs and separate sidelights on at the same time, in the Octavia the vRS headlight cluster is the same as non-vRS models, the Xenon option headlights also have these "spare" bulbs. On the vRS the dimmed DRLs are the sidelights. Suspect the legislation was to stop the proliferation of led lights being fitted all over the front of the car as well as the standard manufacturer DRLs. Or do you mean you have some other bulbs at the bottom of the bumper near the foglights?

Don't you just set climate control to direct the air as you want and just turn off the AC part? If it is pre FL I think you just select economy, on my FL you can have the A/C on or off for any of the climate control settings. When you hit fast demist on front screen it automatically puts the A/C on but you can turn off the A/C bit when it does that if you want. Climate control, i.e. keeping the temp to a set value, doesn't kill you fuel economy it is only when you are running the A/C part.

At about 24k miles now and never had the DPF light on (touching wood as I type!) 90% of journeys are motorway though.

Yes, but you are going to hate me for saying it.... via maxidot! I think it is the ATA confirm option on Maxidot.

Recommend you park in from of a wall/garage, turn on the lights and mark the top/sides of your dipped beam with tape. Do the bulb change and check it hasn't changed. It is to cover the case where the bulb and/or light cluster was adjusted without being seated properly, then when you re-seat it again it is now angled differently, or if you accidentally changed the adjusters when replacing it. However as it is a 2012 car may be worth going to the dealer and query why a headlight bulb has failed so quickly, wouldn't expect one to go so soon.

See http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/253626-mdi-playlists/ true for Bolero MDI, probably the same for Amundsen too.

No worries always happy to share what I've picked up.

There maybe some programs out there that generate a playlist with a relative path to the track, but I've not really investigated. I normally just do the m3u out of windows media player and globally search and replace to remove the E:/ or whatever, as that is quite quick. My car hard disk is just synced with my PC music collection anyway, so I just make sure that for each playlist I have a car compatible one. So I don't think it is just your program, probably just that windows needs a full path to the file in a playlist.

Not sure if the Bolero takes pls format, I use m3u (can write that out of windows media player) But in yours you have ..\Music so it is trying to go up a folder level then into a folder called Music, which I don't imagine the MDI (or SD card reader) understands. Assuming the root of your USB drive/SD card has the Music folder and the rest as shown in the playlist, you probably just need to do a search and replace of ..\ with nothing (although you may need the leading \) and try that, so it becomes File1=Music\C\......... Failing that try m3u which looks like: #EXTM3U #EXTINF:0,11 - Someone Like You.mp3 \Adele\21\11 - Someone Like You.mp3

Yep probably the same for me, takes the 2 miles to get to mway to reach 50degC, and about 15mins down the m/way up to the normal 94degC ish, in a cold winter longer. Price to pay for a more efficient diesel I guess.

Have you opened the playlist in a text editor? I use .m3u format, but normally have to modify mine since the windows version will have something like H:\Artist\Album\xxx.mp3 but it needs to just have Artist\Album\xx.mp3, as the drive letter does not mean anything to the car. It probably knows to ignore it on the card reader, but the MDI interface has a separate bit of firmware and can cope with ipod/hard drive/flash etc to may take the playlist literally.

If you have maxidot and on variable service it should be active, but you may have to select it to be displayed in the setup on maxidot, as many of the items on the MFD section can be turned on/off so that when you cycle through you only get the ones you turn on. I think by default (there is an old thread on this somewhere) you need to be on variable service to see it, but if on fixed there is a service mode which is fixed with oil sensor active. (not the default the dealer normally uses).

Ok, keep us posted then. I guess if you are 60 plate you are model year 11 then (manufactured around may 2010 to may 2011)

I assume this is just for multifunction steering wheel? As don't imagine there is much in the standard one apart from airbag control.

Not really a MPG thread, but for me I was changing from an old (i.e. less efficient 2.5L petrol) doing 20K a year so diesel was an obvious choice as I was changing anyway. I get about 50MPG for 90% motorway journeys (70-80 cruise) 20k@50MPG for CR = 400Gallons = approx £2700/year 20k@32MPG for petrol = 625Gallons = approx £4225/year so saving around £1500/year. However the CR was something like £1200-£1500 more (can't remember now), so starts paying back after a year, at only 4k/year going to be more like 5years before it starts paying back. Obviously for a 2nd hand car the purchase cost of a diesel vs petrol will be smaller, but the diesels do hold their value better. Just a back of the envelope calculation, but justifies it for me!

Yes the VRS steel spare is 16". Alloys fine too, just try and make sure the wheel fitter puts the stick on weights away from the critical gap with callipers in case they start to lift.

Indeed you are correct insurance companies like things that reduce claims, and don't want to pay out for things that are more expensive than what came with the car. However, there is a clear distiction between wheels and tyres. If you tell your insurer you are fitting winter tyres, they often say fine we don't need to know. As soon as you say winter wheels and tyres then they want the details of the wheels, if your model has sporty alloys already then there is normally no change to premium. If your car came with steel rims and you fit winter alloys then that would attract extra cost as their liability in case of an accident has just increased. At the end of the day you need to be honest with them, if you have told them and they are happy then fine. If you don't tell them then you may expose yourself to some arguing later, but if you are sensible with your alloy choice there should be no issue. They have to cover the minority who may fit incompatible sizes without knowing, or fit sizes that impact handling or control in an emergency. For piece of mind I would always disclose everything then they have no comeback.

Well in the UK, if you have a crash they often send somebody to look at the car. They are normally fairly switched on and if they spot something non-standard you haven't told them about... "I'm sorry sir you insurance isn't valid because you didn't tell us about the sporty stripe you added to the side of your car" There are many words to describe them and I'm sure all of which would not get through the profanity filter!

Careful with insurance companies. If you are swapping your tyres for winter ones, i.e. keeping the standard alloys and swapping the tyres, then it is not a modification. It is not much different than switching brands when you replace your tyres, they are a consumable. I think there is even a section on the Association of British Insurers website that says swapping for winter tyres will not mean an increase in premium. If you are running a different set of alloys that are not the same type as what comes as standard on your model then it is technically a modification. I know they are normally lower cost etc, but the foreign call centre person never understands. Best thing to do when you take out the policy is tick the alloy modification box, normally only adds £2/3 pounds to the premium then you are covered and can swap them over as many times as you like. Stops the "admin charge" that some try and get from you when you do your duty and inform them you are switching wheels.

If you can't bear to have steel rims get some 2nd hand Audi A3/A4 ones. The standard ones that people upgrade from are normally 16" with the correct offset for the Octavia, check the massive winter tyres thread that starts with details of offset etc: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/182447-the-winter-tyres-thread/ I managed to get a set of 4 from ebay for £165 with summer tyres on last year, even managed to sell the summer tyres for £40. However, for vRS you MUST get 16" not 15" due to the larger callipers. Even then it is quite close, so make sure the tyre fitter keeps the stick on weights away from the central part next to the callipers. Certainly worth it for piece of mind, softer ride too on the winter potholes with some savings on fuel (partly down to lighter weight and lower wind resistance I suspect).

Yes it takes up to about 300miles before it starts updating. I think it is to get a reasonable average before its starts showing its estimate, probably to stop people worrying when they do a short stop start journey right after service and it displays some really low mileage for next service.

Not on UK vRS AFAIK, although never actually tried releasing footbrake on a hill without using handbrake!

Getting 48-50 on mine currently. Now at around 14k doing a 35mile each way commute, 90% motorway, 70-80mph. My fuelly is showing a little higher at the moment as I only took the winter wheels off a month ago, 16" wheels gains me 3+ mpg, probably mainly due to the lighter weight (you notice the difference in weight when you swap them over, quite noticeable when trying to lift them!) However, I do notice a sharp drop off if I start doing more local driving, the more powerful diesels aren't as efficient as they could be for non-motorway stuff. So maybe 45-47 is about right for 80/20% mway/A roads.

On the later vRS's it was a single option that was Auto wipers, auto lights, dimming mirror etc, (even though the dimming mirror was listed as standard on the vRS). So probably depends on the trim and model year. So yes the OP has rain sensors, but may or may not have auto lights.