MarkyG82

Most of the time I would say go for independent service but on this occasion a dealer might be a better choice if all the previous work has been main dealer. If there is a break at all in the servicing venue then a car that is 6 years old would be unlikely to lose much as long as you have all the right parts. Another way to look at it (the way I would view it): if someone started using a trusted indy then they are more likely to be actually looking after the car and doing the right stuff at the right time. Someone blindly taking the car to a main dealer would likely have missed stuff or refused work due to increased cost. Just my view of course.

@J.R. I'm not responding any longer. You are intentionally being difficult.

@J.R. from the first page. Crunch certainly sounds like something broken to me. Whether from this gear change or not it cant be helping the situation.

Quoted it above. From the first post on page 3 of this very thread.

So I tried it today (engine around 2k in 2nd) and the car speed was about 20mph. Change down and all I got was some added noise. Can only assume that, being the hybrid, the electric motor rev matched (to roughly 3.5k). I got no added braking or crunchy stuff. I now want to try it in a dinosaur car to see the difference but I don't know anyone with a dsg anymore as they've all changed brand or gone back to Manuel.

Thanks I will (when I have time). Having read back my use of the word "panic" was misused. I was intended it to sound human. It was intended as a description of the box changing from it's preselect of 3rd to 1st. Also not talking about engaging both shafts at the same time. I also work with dynamics and having done some work into combined environments can state that non-linear responses can occur. If you understand that terminology (I'm guessing you do) then I think we are arguing about things we both know about, but neither knows everything. Probably wise to leave it there and get back to the gearbox talk.

@J.R. this one. No need for that. We're all trying to learn here. Also, a mechanical system can most certainly be stressed. Under dynamic loads, an assembly of components can respond in unpredictable ways. Even if the logic controller allows something to happen it doesn't necessarily mean it should.

But will it select 1 or 3 if slowing in 2 with engine at 2k revs as per this post breaking gearboxes? Just wondering if making it panic into a shift it's not prepared for is adding to the stress and not helping the situation.

Do you know if the box knows to select 1st instead of 3rd if engine speed is around 2k revs? Swapping to the other shaft is a smooth process but if wrong gear is selected it can be rough. I know that when cruising (eg in 4th) then 5th might be selected on the other shaft but putting your foot down will change that selection to 3rd even if it doesn't swap to the other shaft.

I'm on various forums and everyone has issues with this on vag cars to varying success. I too have a syncev point and the smart bits have been improved recently. I rely on the car driving the charge times etc so don't use the smarts built in to the wall point. Something like a zappi would be better I think.

Under load the engine will have a better chance at rev matching naturally. Under the reverse load something has to raise the revs up to match. Correct me please but I don't think these have rev matching coded in so the clutch will have to drag the engine up to speed on its own. I'm not an expert driver and certainly can't do heel-toe but I can just about manage a half decent rev match on a manual. Makes a big difference to the loads through the components.

Admittedly I have just turned that ripe age so do I count as being both old and young? I also didn't realise syncromesh in 1st dated that far back. Do we know without going out and trying what car speed is when engine is 2k revs in second? Imagine it's mid to high teens? Far too high for 1st gear. Should be walking pace like you say.

Gearboxes have changed in the last 40 years and can handle a change down before stationary. But I do also agree that I would never consider making that change if the engine was doing 2k revs. If you are not getting the required engine braking from that then you should be on the brakes, going slower to start with or not loaded so heavy.

I'm in two minds with this. First I can see how engine braking is good for slow speed stuff but wouldn't want to be shifting to 1st from 2k revs. Maybe sub 1500. The boxes are designed to preselect the next gear and I suspect it would be thinking about 3rd in that situation rather than 1st. Unless the logic is built into it to understand that you are slowing. But on the other hand if the system allows the shift.......

I was going to reply earlier saying something could be stuck in the port on the phone but was busy. Looks like another issue though. I've had crap build up in the port before that caused very similar issues.

It's better but the added torque of sport mode is definitely needed sometimes. On the Skoda do you have a dedicated sport button. The Passat has a GTE button so one press and you have full power.

You can override it with a tap of the go pedal for that pass. It will then go back up to speed or to the car in front.

No change in e-mode. Which is great as my commute is mostly electric through the year.

I have my Passat GTE tuned by racingline. It not only has the engine tuned but adds the full electric to GTE mode (sport mode in the superb). The claim is adding 46bhp but I'm not convinced it's as much as that. It's still good though. The big change is adding the full electric in GTE mode. In stock form it only uses about 60% of the electric in GTE mode so adding this the full combined output is best part of 280bhp and 460nm. It really shifts! Need good tyres though due to the massive torque.

The quadlock cable (big square one) in the glovebox is what you need to connect to the new unit. You either need an extension or to reroute it to the centre console. This is assuming you have the right parts for your car which is sounding increasingly unlikely. Can we ask what you are trying to achieve by fitting the android unit?

A mapped diesel will gain more at the low end compared to a petrol. We are talking about a smaller capacity too. The torque difference between a mapped 2.0tdi and a mapped 1.5tsi will be huge and if you are used to the former then it's understandable why you are questioning the results.

You don't want to connect to the glove box unit. That is the old system that the android one is replacing.

If your car is changing up around 2k revs then looking at that Dyno plot you are in the region of not using much of the improved map. Give it a little next time it's warm and you'll be surprised I think. Get the revs up and it will be a different beast if the Dyno is correct.

I would suggest that the pins are wrong. Maybe even not the right cable or unit for your car.

Another garage?