MarkyG82

I can recommend the B6 over the koni SA. The damping characteristics of B6 is identical to the B8. The B8 being shorter so more suited to lowering springs. Does not mean the B6 ban only be used for stock height. In fact for some time the B12 kit on the Octavia and golf came with B6. If you have the skills and tools then a set of B6 shocks should suit well with the stock springs and gives the flexibility to add lowering springs at a later date. This is what I did with my Octavia.

Modern airboxes are designed to supply excess air while also being tuned to the engine (length, turbulence,etc). So an aftermarket intake would need to be something special and combined with a high flow exhaust and tune to get the most from it. Simply chucking an intake on a stock car will often lead to worse performance.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm after something that doesn't rely on plugging into the car. So battery (hence the Ryobi one) or mains.

Primary use will be inflating tyres on cars and bikes. No immediate need for other tools. Maybe a Brad nailer and sprayer. Some of the kits I've seen come with a basic spray gun which I'm under no illusion will be much good but should get me started. All other tools are battery or mains and no plans to replace or double up yet. Apart from my cheap electric Brad gun. I don't use it much mostly because it's a bit rubbish and the action is painfully slow. An air one would be great and allow me to just knock in a few brads when doing glue ups. Power in the garage is on a dedicated ring so MCB depending I should be ok.

My Ryobi inflator thingy is starting to struggle and the pressure indicator has always been a bit carp. Got me looking at a replacement but I have an emergency inflator gun thing in the boot so wondering if a more substantial device is required. First thought about the Ryobi 6lt compressor. Looks good. Nice and mobile should be able to deliver the air needed for the cars, bikes and other small jobs. A bit expensive for a small tank. For less money I can get something from SGS or the like and have either better quality, bigger tank or both. Mains powered though so will need to make sure the hose is long enough. Is 6lt too small? More is better obviously but is 50 too big? I have a double garage so in theory plenty space. But then I don't want to spend on something that is too big as it's wasted money and space. In true forum fashion please feel free to recommend what you have!

Not the same engine or gearbox but my 1.9 after a remap was much smoother and mechanically more sympathetic to the clutch. The stock map had a massive surge of torque low down. Not saying the 1.8 is the same (likely not given the engine type) but there is no reason for it to be worse on the clutch if driven consciously. I also think that dsgs have coding to change down a gear when the torque is overloaded.

The fittings on my box can be set so the spacing is fixed. Then you just need some sort of indication on the car for one bar. Assuming this is what you are talking about. Maybe a bit of tape on the underside of the rail? Or even a small scratch that could later be buffed out.

It senses the height of the rear suspension and adjusts the headlights vertical aim to compensate for heavy loads in the back.

That's fair enough. Wasn't clear from your first post if the warranty was still valid.

Hence my "and analyse the output" bit. My comment as a whole is more in line with your last bit. Obviously there is more to diagnosis than plugging in but that does seem to be the default first action in my experience.

That's the level sensor. Should be easy enough to unbolt it at the bottom if you need the beam dropping further.

Assuming it's the car in your bio, I would be taking an 8 year old car to a trusted place rather than a dealer. Sounds like you are sceptical (rightly) so maybe look around for a more suitable garage then cancel the appointment?

The fee is to plug in the diagnostic system and analyse the output. If you booked the car in for a specific job then they shouldn't need to do it. for example if you scanned the car and found you needed a new sensor, in theory you should be able to book it in for that new sensor. The issue with that is they will just hand the car back whether is fixes the original issue or not. Some independent garages knock the fee off the final bill if they find something that is needed. Then there are other things like a suspension rattle. If a dealer insists on plugging in for that and charging £135 I'd be looking to take the car else where.

I think the main benefit to the shorter B8 is a reduced droop so it keeps geometry under full extension. It also should allow for reduced body roll as the inside would in theory lift less as you change direction.

Only way to find out for sure is to ask. Many good places will order in too. Just and have a chat.

I'd be swapping those out for 4 of the same of pretty much anything.

On the subject of shocks. The idea that new shocks will make the ride firmer is not necessarily true. They may make it firmer but they also will definitely make it smoother if replacing worn shocks. It's also a massively subjective point. One persons firm is another persons supportive. The springs also make a big difference. Matching shocks and springs to each other and also to the drivers expectations is a minefield.

Checking pressure middle of the afternoon when the car has been exposed to the sun will make a difference too. The tyres facing the sun will be artificially high. Best time to check is any time that the car has been in a steady state. Be that in shade, overnight or driving for a while. Just need the tyres to be all the same.

In the same way that you shouldn't fit different tyre types front and rear I would avoid fitting shocks that respond in a different way 9n each end. The SA's are quite a specific shock that had some kind of reactive damping. I would happily fit a firm rear shock like a B6 alongside the stock fronts as the main change is damping stiffness. If combined with lowering springs then a matching set all round is probably wise. I do share your views on the SA's. Not been a fan and if I get a bonus this year I might consider using it on a set of B6's.

Can the nose weight be reduced a bit to reduce the load. I know the recommendation is 75kg (or there about) but is there a minimum? Obviously you need positive weight.

Diagonal so you get the opposite load on the tyre. For example tyres on the left in the UK will see a different usage due to roundabouts and additional debris nearer the side of the road. If directional they can only be swapped front to back on the same side as placing in the other side would require you reverse everywhere to keep the tyres running in their designed direction.

Yes I suspect there is coding, or maybe even a hard stop, preventing it but it still sounds like a recipe for something going wrong.

I would advise steering clear of shifting the dsg stick while moving. Just not a good idea as you might accidentally money shift into reverse or P. Pulling back for S there is almost zero chance of messing that up. Pushing forward? Hit a bump and break something.

So she's grumpy about the size of cup holder yet her cup fits? Also, what giant cups are you using that they don't fit!?!?

Fairly certain g maps has speed on android auto. Waze definitely does and also has good camera (and other) data. Worth having a play as it's owned by Google and uses the same map data. Nice to have it all on the big screen too. I rarely use my car without plugging in now.