MarkyG82

Is the android unit a split system (separate screen)? If all in one then the cables in the glovebox need to plug into the unit in the dash. If a split system then it should have come with the relevant cables to join the two units.

You need the adaptor to go from the glovebox unit to the new unit in the middle. Can't remember what you do with the screen cables in the middle at the mo. You need to reroute the glovebox cables. They are the important ones.

@UndertheRadar have a look at the damptronics. I while back when they were a bit newer to the market the B4 and B6 were the same inside with the B6 having firmer damping. The B6 certainly lacked the monotube design of the standard version. They may have changed that now as I was looking about 4-5 years ago.

Suspension is so subjective it's hard to recommend. I personally like quite a supportive setup with a stiff rear roll bar to limit lean. I also like bilstein b6 shocks but they are quite stiff when combined with lowering springs. With stock springs they are good and combined with a stiffer rear bar would provide quite a sporty drive while maintaining some comfort.

I don't understand sorry. Was just sharing my experience of what I changed to solve the problem. A map was the only thing that finally solved it for me.

@MicMacwhy the groan?

The part that causes the problem is the starter turning too slow. This happens when it is only a little worn. I went round in circles with this with earthing points, new batteries, a new starter. The only thing that fixed it in the end was a remap. I was living with the issue happily and then realised the map fixed it. The way I lived with it was to turn the car over, back off, then start properly. It always started this time rather than chugging and labouring the start.

No a non-RR map will be much better than a box. Maybe 85-90% of a Dyno/road map. The risk of an off the shelf map is component life. It won't be optimised for your specific car so will either push some parts (turbo) too far or will reign in the power to compensate. A fully custom map will get you the most from the engine from both a power and driveability point of view. Don't discount a cots map though. They have their place and my current car has one. Last 2 were semi custom and I can honestly say I can't tell the difference. 3 totally different platforms though.

It was well known for the 1.9pd lump. Especially in the lower power variants. Mine was the 105 and the map took it to 135 ish but the overall gain and gradual curve of the delivery made it feel much more. I miss that car but family additions etc forced a move to a bigger boot.

As @EnterNamesuggests, the only way to get more power is to add more fuel. However. And this is a big however. My 1.9pd did improve in mpg after a remap. The main reason was the way the power was delivered. Much smoother without the annoying lump of torque at about 2k revs. Just made it easier to drive and easier to get good economy. But. And this is a big but (see what I did there? 😀). When giving it some it used much more fuel!

Is this not a thing regardless of D or S? You can still push across to M. Or do some DSGs have an actual slot for S?

I'm sure you can clip a new one in without removing the bumper. That was the way people suggested doing it a few years ago I'm sure. Unless I was thinking about MK2 days.

Can guarantee it won't fit in my Passat as I've tried at Christmas. So likely won't fit in the superb unfortunately.

Or fitted incorrectly?

Sounds like you have a fault that is causing the flywheel to malfunction. To now you have replaced a part without fixing the source fault. Thinking about it from an engineering point of view, an unbalanced rotation could cause it to fail (assuming you mean the dual mass bit). This could be caused by a blocked injector. Or a failing injector that is passing too much fuel. Also if not enough revs are used pulling away, this can premature fail a DMF. I also wonder if there is a fault with the actuation system on the clutch. Pedal or hydraulics. Not disengaging the clutch fully so dragging? This is all guess work I'm afraid. I'm sure someone with more specific knowledge will be along soon. Hope you work it out as it sounds a bit of a nightmare.

It may be down to how he drove it. Pottering along and shifting into S won't necessarily cause a downshift. It will however cause it to more readily downshift. They need to understand the kit they are servicing. I am particularly impressed that they are still pushing the funny driving style. Shifting back and forth between modes was standard pretty much every time I got in the car.

Same tyre size as superb. Those fiestas are great to drive despite having torsion beam too. Just shows what can be done with the technology.

What size tyres does it have? I would have put the Mondeo against the superb. Is a focus not a more fair comparison with the Octavia? Obviously not in your case as you moved to the Mondeo. Just rambling.

Probably need a gearbox too.

Everyone knows I'm always right! Looking forward to hearing the outcome of this.

Just search on here. Been discussed many times. Price will vary on location and what you decide to have replaced.

Some extreme heavy towing to cause that!

That much though. If the springs are original and not snapped it would have to have been used as farm machinery to be sagging that much! Looks either broken (not saggy) or modded to me.

The shocks don't lower the car. The springs do that. But you can't fit stock height springs to B8 as the shocks are too short. That's why B6 are better. You can use stock springs or a mild drop. If fitting B8 you NEED lowering springs. Actually B6 will raise the height slightly due to the increased pressure in the shocks. Not loads. Probably 5-10mm on stock springs. Less than 5mm with lowering springs. So if a lowering is listed as 35mm it will be closer to 30mm on B6. B8 will be closer to the listed lowering due to the shorter shaft.

The average mileage is the minimum I'd want for a healthy dpf. Did you get the car used and if so how many miles per year do you do? And how was the car driven before you got it? Definitely sounds like the dpf needs cleaning/replacing.