petrolbloke

Don't know if they are the same for hatch/estate versions but I have one for my hatch.

Rusted through on a 2015 car?! My 2002 Octavia still has the original dust shields. Maybe they don't make them like they used to! 😄

If they were loose (and could potentially fall off) or contacting the disk I wouldn't be surprised to get at least an advisory for it. OP: did the noise just suddenly start or was anything done to the car just before it started? The discs/pads look OK from the photos, but as Ken said we can't make judgement on the inner pads. All being well they should wear at a similar rate but if the sliders seize up then the inner would wear more. You could try to feel the other side of the discs with your finger (once cold!) to see if there are any obvious ridges. If it's going in for a service tomorrow then worth asking them to do a quick check. With the car in the air it should be a piece of cake to work out which wheel(s) the noise is coming from and whether it's due to the dust shield or pads.

'99 Octy vRS? I thought the earliest ones were 2001 - X or Y reg. Have a look on eBay and FB for cars being broken for spares. I believe other Octavia subframes will also fit and maybe even some Golf/Leon/A3/TT ones - hopefully someone else can give some more detail on that.

140k? Just run in 😉

I think you posted in a FB group I'm also a member of. Same reply here - I fitted Sachs front springs to mine. They have been on a few years with no problems. I think I got them from CP4L/ECP or GSF.

This is in the mk1 section and a 2016 car will be a mk3. I'm not sure if it will cause any problems but I would fill it up with premium unleaded next time (97 RON+) then use 95 RON+ in future.

That is crazy pricing. It's a very straightforward job to replace so definitely worth DIYing or taking the part you've bought to a tame local mechanic if you're really not confident fitting it. Good luck

Direct link for OP: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/ecu/switches-and-sensors/air-mass-sensor/bosch-air-mass-sensor-0280218340-detail Price looks good. I think I paid about £60 on exchange basis from a dealer 10 or 11 years ago.

I suspect the latter but it might be worth a try. See here:

Nothing looks really concerning to me on that printout. The toe is a bit different on the rear from left to right but they are both toeing in. If I remember I'll dig out the sheet from when I last had my alignment checked and see how yours compares. Mine does have visibly more camber on the rear than the front. What tyres do you have, what size and what pressures do you set them to? Standard is 205/50 but a lot of people run 225/45 (myself included). Can't remember what the book says but I normally use about 33/30psi front/rear. It should be unlikely on newly fitted parts but I'm wondering if there could be a fault with one/both of the rear shocks or the springs are just too firm. Do you still have the original shocks/springs? Edit: Had a quick look for an alignment sheet but couldn't find a legible one and there are a lot of receipts in my folder!

Not sure what the rear camber should be standard but it won't be a lot. Somewhere between 0 and 1 degree negative camber I'd expect. What wheels and tyres are you running, and what do you set your tyre pressures to? Were the coilovers just installed or were they also set up after? By set up I mean ride height, any damping adjustments and wheel alignment. If the beam was bent from jacking then I would expect that to cause positive camber.

Another thing to check is the built in diagnostics for the climate control: Depending what that shows you can also access individual values for various sensors etc:

When my original rear shocks started leaking I replaced them with Bilstein B4s - no problems at all and they have been on quite a few years now.

Have you looked on YouTube? There are videos for replacing door locks on there. Not sure about replacing wiring or CCM.

According to Powerbulbs you need D2S bulbs (Xenon) for the dipped beam and H1 bulbs (halogen) for the full beam. I've had good experience with Osram halogen bulbs and wouldn't hesitate to buy their Xenon bulbs if my car needed them.

Hi @Mogwad - from your profile and pictures it looks like you have a mk3 Octavia but this thread is in the mk1 section. The first thing to check would be the fuses. If it's not that then try having a search in the mk3 section and if the search doesn't show anything up then start a new thread in that section.

+1 on the bump stops. Forgot about those in my previous post. Mine were crumbling when I replaced them!

Do you mean which tools are required to replace them or which other parts should you consider replacing at the same time? There's not much else to the rear suspension - bushes for the rear beam, shocks and top mounts. Mine has had shocks (Bilstein) and top mounts done. Bushes rarely need doing. Replacing the shocks, springs or top mounts is pretty straightforward. Get both wheels off the ground (don't put a trolley jack in the centre of the rear beam to do this!) and secure on axle stands. Remove wheels. Use a jack under the spring and undo the lower shock absorber bolt. Lower the jack until you can remove the spring. The most tricky bits will be freeing bolts that might not have moved for about 20 years - use release spray and be patient. Also take care to put things back together in the right order when replacing shocks/top mounts. Edit: The above is for 2wd models, the rear suspension is different on 4x4 models and I'm not familiar with them.

Looks like a scary list but some of the things might just be from a very picky tester. I've found there to be a huge difference in what testers do and don't pick up on. Sometimes I've had advisories that I don't think are actually worth doing anything about. Rear number plate light is a bit fiddly to do but not expensive. Some corrosion related advisories there - things some testers would advise on and others would not. Haven't seen/heard of common issues with subframe bushes on these so again might be due to a picky tester. Tyres will be £150-200 a pair fitted - I put 225/45/17s on mine as they are slightly cheaper and there's more choice. Front suspension bushes (wishbones and top mounts) will probably benefit from being done but if they are still just advisories then get it through the MOT first then consider getting them done after. Mine has actually had advisories for those (top mount on N/S and bush on O/S) but I don't think there's actually anything wrong. If I were in your shoes I'd do all the easy DIY checks (lights, wipers, fluids, tyre tread and pressure) then just take it for an MOT and see what's what. Give it a good wash first so it at least looks a bit cared for even if it's been a bit neglected. Good luck!

88k is nothing for one of these. With an MOT it would sell easily, if you wanted to. Post up the list of issues and we can help advise. In case you weren't aware, you can view the MOT history online at https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/skoda_octavia_rs At the moment this says <1200 taxed and just under 800 SORN. Some of the SORN ones might never make it back on the road though (accident damage or broken for spares and scrapped). What's the mileage now and what's the failure/advisory list? Where abouts are you located? Hopefully it can be saved from the scrap heap!

I missed all the twos 😞 But did get this... I'm into moon mileage now - at the shortest point in the orbit it's 221500 miles from Earth.

I wouldn't want to run spacers. @phazed - wonder if it's worth improving cooling to the front brakes and/or trying some better pads? You could take a look at some more track-focused forums to see what the latest recommendations are for trackday pads.

Probably just a coincidence. Can you read the codes?