petrolbloke

Difficult to properly check with the wheels on the ground. The best you can really do is look under there with a torch and try to gauge how corroded things look. Maybe the car has spent a lot of time near the sea or been driven on a lot of salted roads in the winter. It could be nothing to worry about or it could be an expensive repair a few years down the line. What you said about the tyre sounds like an MOT advisory. It might have been replaced, or previously been on the front (where uneven wear on the inner or outer edges is more common). Rear suspension shouldn't really go out of alignment unless bushes are totally knackered or it's had a significant impact on that corner. Is it from a dealer or private seller?

Sounds about right for an average speed of 14mph. But with such a low average speed it might be quicker to cycle!

Try Brake Parts for Cars (brakesint.co.uk) or Home - Bigg Red for a replacement seal. As for fitting, I haven't done one before so can't really help there but if I needed to I'd be looking at YouTube videos. I imagine it would be similar for most cars.

Just to confirm - this was from Vision Coding? Did you get the email delivery or SD card by post?

Hi @pab567 Is there an update for this? I am downloading up to date maps from Skoda already.

SOLD 😢 Make & Model: 2002 Skoda Octavia vRS 1.8T Colour: Silver Mileage: 230,000 Price: £800 ono (that's what I'll put it up for elsewhere but I will do a favourable deal with a Briskoda member and have some bits I can add/remove such as the headunit, spare wheel, Thule roof bars, oil & filters depending what you want) I've been offered £500 by two breakers so please no silly offers. I think it would be a shame to break it for spares at this point. I'm hoping it will go to someone who will do the required maintenance to get it to 250k miles. 🤞 Description: Sadly selling as I've bought a newer Octavia vRS to replace it. I've owned it since 2011 when it had 73k on the clock. I racked up a lot of miles commuting for a time (400+ miles a week). It's taken me to Le Mans twice and all over the UK and never let me down. Key points MOT to 28th December 2024 One owner before me. Two keys Service book (nearly full up!) and owners manuals Cruise control Two keys Locking wheel nut key present Full size spare wheel with tool kit V5 in my name and address Taxed and insured so can be test driven Golf R32 front anti roll bar TT bushes in the front wishbones Powerflex dogbone mount (diesel one) Smoke and pet free interior Mobius dashcam (1920x1080 full HD resolution) - records to a micro SD card Alpine CB/USB/Bluetooth hands free head unit Cambelt and water pump last replaced in August 2019 @ 202k by a local VW specialist garage Spec: Part leather interior, 4x electric windows, electric + heated mirrors, Climate control + air con (working and cold), cruise control, ISOfix points on the rear seats, front and rear mud flaps, vRS floor mats, door sill protectors Good bits: Drives well. Goes and stops in a straight line. No knocks or clunks. Clutch and gearbox are good. Lots of receipts I've done a lot of the servicing and repairs myself Serviced every 10k miles in my ownership Decent tyres - Vredsteins on the front and Michelin Pilot Sport 4s on the back No warning lights on the dash Sills haven't been squashed like a lot of these have Less good/bad/ugly bits: Cat C in 2014. Someone crashed into the back of me. I have photos of the damage. I looked at loads of cars to replace it but couldn't find one good enough so kept it and had it repaired by a reputable bodyshop (Finishline near Stevenage) using second hand parts. Car had 120k on the clock and was worth about £2k at the time. The quote to repair with a new bumper, tailgate, paint etc. was £2.5k. Central locking locks/unlocks the boot and sometimes the front passenger door. Driver's door locks/unlocks with the key in the barrel and rear doors lock/unlock from the inside. Heated rear screen doesn't work (because the glass was swapped over to the replacement tailgate) Exhaust needs some welding or replacing (one of the mounting points is detached and there's a leak from the back box) NSF front brake is binding slightly. Wheel doesn't seem to get hot but was an advisory on the MOT. Piston and sliders and pad carrier seemed fine when I replaced the discs and pads last year so 🤷‍♂️ MOT advisory for corrosion on the rear brake pipes. I haven't had a second opinion on these yet. Condition: Just run in 😉 / see description / judge for yourself Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Lots, see description. New front discs & pads last year. New track rod ends for the MOT. Extras: See description Mods: See description

I thought the day might never come but yesterday I just put a deposit down on a blue 2016 petrol manual hatch and will be picking it up next weekend. Going to sell my mk1 which I've had for nearly 13 years and has been the best car I've ever had. The mk3 has big shoes to fill!

230k! This will probably be my last post to this topic with this car 😢

As above, check for loose heat shields underneath. A knackered rear lower engine mount (commonly called the dogbone mount) also won't help with movement and rattling of the exhaust system - I have a powerflex diesel polybush fitted to mine. DMF failure should be unlikely.

I suspect either the wheel bolts are not torqued up correctly or the discs (probably the fronts) now have run out after the wheels were removed to replace the tyres.

50/50 on the drop links - they are easy to replace on their own but also cheap to fit new ones while you're doing the wishbones and need to remove them anyway. I would go Lemforder or TRW for the suspension arms / ball joints. Mine has original suspension arms but the rear bushes replaced with genuine TT ones. I've replaced the ball joints as well and I think they are TRW.

Last visited October 2022 so might not be around any more. @JustinHazzard you could try sending him a PM with a link to this thread.

Thinking it might almost be time to move on from my trusty old mk1 Octavia vRS. 😱😢 Has anyone got any tips about things to look out for on these? Both in terms of spec and common faults. Although I'm tempted by a facelift 245 model I don't really want to spend that much on a car, so am more likely going to be looking at cars around 2014-2016 with 60-90k on the clock. Definitely want petrol and manual.

Wrong thread?

£1500 seems steep but doesn't surprise me at main dealer rates. A clutch should not fail at that mileage under normal/average driving conditions. As you've pointed out there have been numerous other threads on here about premature failures. It seems highly likely that yours has failed due to a manufacturing fault and not normal wear and tear. I would do the following: 1. Email the dealer outlining your position (unfit for purpose, not of satisfactory quality) and that you believe it to be a manufacturing defect and not normal wear and tear due to the type of driving and examples of other premature failures. Request that they repair the fault at no cost to you. 2. If they don't play ball then get it repaired (probably at a Skoda dealer as it may hold more weight later on if needed) and make sure you keep the parts. 3. Email again requesting reimbursement for the costs. 4. (if applicable) Email finance/credit card company - I believe they are jointly and severally liable under section 75 of the consumer credit act. 5. If no joy with the above then get an independent report on the failed parts. I believe there was a thread on here before where somebody did that and got a favourable result in the end so I would try to dig that thread out and maybe use the same company/person to do the report. 6. Repeat steps 3 and 4, adding the cost of getting the report done (+ postage costs!) 7. Small claims court. If you get to this point you will be able to demonstrate you've tried to keep costs down by giving them options at step 1 and 3 before getting to 6. Hopefully you won't need to get to step 7! Take a look at the Citizens Advice website and possibly give them a call. Can you keep this thread updated with progress? (you may need to be a bit light on some of the details like the exact dealer involved) Good luck!

If the diameter and thickness matches the discs you currently have then yes.

Front or rear? Pretty sure my VRS has isofix points in the rear, though I'm not an expert on these things and have never used them. I'd expect the other models to have them too expect maybe the pre-facelift ones.

Your profile says you have a 2021 Octavia but this is the mk1 section (98-2005 ish). If you do have a 2021 Octavia I think that would probably make it a mk4 which is in this section: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/396-skoda-octavia-mk-iv-2020/ As for testing the alarm - my initial suggestion would be to leave windows open and lock the car, but that might not work on some cars. Edit: I see you have already posted in the mk4 section before - I suggest having a search in that section or starting a new thread if you can't find an answer.

Welcome to mk1 ownership! Only other thing to do while doing the cambelt kit + water pump would be the aux belt. I don't know of there being another interval for the chain. Mine is on 227k and hasn't had any work done on the chain. I expect they're usually OK for the life of the engine/car as long as it's not been neglected. Yes I think the SAI can be mapped out.

The flywheel is 'dual-mass', not the clutch. I know the 1.8T VRS has a DMF as do the diesels. I'd expect the other 1.8T models to also have a DMF. No idea about the others. Why do you ask? DMF failure is only really an issue on the diesels.

Hard to gauge as they don't come up very often. I'd guess around £200 to the right buyer. I'd keep them on though! What would you change them for? The ride is still very good and not harsh at all with 17" wheels (I run 225/45/R17).

Personally I wouldn't bother. You might need a different LSD for the six speed box and that will get expensive. There are gear ratios for the 02J (5 speed) and 02M (6 speed) boxes here: https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk4/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_02j/technical_data/gearbox_identification/code_letters_gearbox_allocation_ratios_capacities/ https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk4/power_transmission/5_and_6-speed_manual_gearbox_02m/technical_data/gearbox_identification/identification_code_assembly_allocation_ratios_capacities/ On track in the octy I imagine you'd only use 2nd - 4th. On the 6 speed box maybe you'd use 5th as well (gear ratios should be closer together) but the extra gear changes might actually make you slower. Not sure if it's possible to fit a different final drive which would give better acceleration at the expense of top speed. The only other way to achieve the same effect would be to fit smaller diameter wheels/tyres, but it'll look ****e and may be a problem for brake clearance.

Wow that's very low mileage to have knackered shocks. The front shocks on my car have done nearly 10x that mileage. Maybe the previous owner(s) lived in an area with a lot of speed bumps and didn't have much mechanical sympathy. Did you make them aware they were leaking at the 3 month point and did you ask for them to be replaced? Did you also make them aware that your MOT flagged them as advisories? Agreed, I would be pushing hard for the dealer to replace them or contribute at least 50% of the cost.

How many miles were on the car when you bought it and what mileage is it on now? When is the MOT due? I would not be surprised if that failed an MOT. I would get a second opinion from an independent MOT station (preferably one that doesn't do repairs) and ask them their opinion. Car is not necessarily unsafe to drive. I've driven cars with worse shocks than that (though I did get them replaced ASAP once I was aware).

Indeed. I am quite mechanically minded and more sensitive to noises cars make than your average punter and I don't think it's easy to accurately diagnose which wheel bearing is noisy from driving the car. 🤣 I've had failed front wheel bearings on my Octavia and failed rear bearings on my old Clio. The Octavia ones I diagnosed myself and got a garage to fit 2x new bearings (beyond my level of DIY as needs a bearing press). The Clio ones I fixed myself by buying new discs with new bearings already pressed in.