petrolbloke

Nothing looks really concerning to me on that printout. The toe is a bit different on the rear from left to right but they are both toeing in. If I remember I'll dig out the sheet from when I last had my alignment checked and see how yours compares. Mine does have visibly more camber on the rear than the front. What tyres do you have, what size and what pressures do you set them to? Standard is 205/50 but a lot of people run 225/45 (myself included). Can't remember what the book says but I normally use about 33/30psi front/rear. It should be unlikely on newly fitted parts but I'm wondering if there could be a fault with one/both of the rear shocks or the springs are just too firm. Do you still have the original shocks/springs? Edit: Had a quick look for an alignment sheet but couldn't find a legible one and there are a lot of receipts in my folder!

Not sure what the rear camber should be standard but it won't be a lot. Somewhere between 0 and 1 degree negative camber I'd expect. What wheels and tyres are you running, and what do you set your tyre pressures to? Were the coilovers just installed or were they also set up after? By set up I mean ride height, any damping adjustments and wheel alignment. If the beam was bent from jacking then I would expect that to cause positive camber.

Another thing to check is the built in diagnostics for the climate control: Depending what that shows you can also access individual values for various sensors etc:

When my original rear shocks started leaking I replaced them with Bilstein B4s - no problems at all and they have been on quite a few years now.

Have you looked on YouTube? There are videos for replacing door locks on there. Not sure about replacing wiring or CCM.

According to Powerbulbs you need D2S bulbs (Xenon) for the dipped beam and H1 bulbs (halogen) for the full beam. I've had good experience with Osram halogen bulbs and wouldn't hesitate to buy their Xenon bulbs if my car needed them.

Hi @Mogwad - from your profile and pictures it looks like you have a mk3 Octavia but this thread is in the mk1 section. The first thing to check would be the fuses. If it's not that then try having a search in the mk3 section and if the search doesn't show anything up then start a new thread in that section.

+1 on the bump stops. Forgot about those in my previous post. Mine were crumbling when I replaced them!

Do you mean which tools are required to replace them or which other parts should you consider replacing at the same time? There's not much else to the rear suspension - bushes for the rear beam, shocks and top mounts. Mine has had shocks (Bilstein) and top mounts done. Bushes rarely need doing. Replacing the shocks, springs or top mounts is pretty straightforward. Get both wheels off the ground (don't put a trolley jack in the centre of the rear beam to do this!) and secure on axle stands. Remove wheels. Use a jack under the spring and undo the lower shock absorber bolt. Lower the jack until you can remove the spring. The most tricky bits will be freeing bolts that might not have moved for about 20 years - use release spray and be patient. Also take care to put things back together in the right order when replacing shocks/top mounts. Edit: The above is for 2wd models, the rear suspension is different on 4x4 models and I'm not familiar with them.

Looks like a scary list but some of the things might just be from a very picky tester. I've found there to be a huge difference in what testers do and don't pick up on. Sometimes I've had advisories that I don't think are actually worth doing anything about. Rear number plate light is a bit fiddly to do but not expensive. Some corrosion related advisories there - things some testers would advise on and others would not. Haven't seen/heard of common issues with subframe bushes on these so again might be due to a picky tester. Tyres will be £150-200 a pair fitted - I put 225/45/17s on mine as they are slightly cheaper and there's more choice. Front suspension bushes (wishbones and top mounts) will probably benefit from being done but if they are still just advisories then get it through the MOT first then consider getting them done after. Mine has actually had advisories for those (top mount on N/S and bush on O/S) but I don't think there's actually anything wrong. If I were in your shoes I'd do all the easy DIY checks (lights, wipers, fluids, tyre tread and pressure) then just take it for an MOT and see what's what. Give it a good wash first so it at least looks a bit cared for even if it's been a bit neglected. Good luck!

88k is nothing for one of these. With an MOT it would sell easily, if you wanted to. Post up the list of issues and we can help advise. In case you weren't aware, you can view the MOT history online at https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/skoda_octavia_rs At the moment this says <1200 taxed and just under 800 SORN. Some of the SORN ones might never make it back on the road though (accident damage or broken for spares and scrapped). What's the mileage now and what's the failure/advisory list? Where abouts are you located? Hopefully it can be saved from the scrap heap!

I missed all the twos 😞 But did get this... I'm into moon mileage now - at the shortest point in the orbit it's 221500 miles from Earth.

I wouldn't want to run spacers. @phazed - wonder if it's worth improving cooling to the front brakes and/or trying some better pads? You could take a look at some more track-focused forums to see what the latest recommendations are for trackday pads.

Probably just a coincidence. Can you read the codes?

Wheel fitment aside, you'll definitely need the larger discs and the right pads for the caliper/carrier. Have you tried any other pads than the DS2500s?

3.5 months is not a lot. Should be fine, just do the usual checks first. Best to take it for a drive if you can rather than just letting it idle - that will clean up the brakes and make sure everything gets properly up to temperature.

Mine seems fine on E10. It's always been noticeably better on V-Power though (even well before E10 came in). Can't say I've noticed any difference in fuel economy with 95 RON E10 compared to the old 95 RON E5.

Presumably if you clear the code it comes back? I would try taking the pipe to the throttle body off and with the help of an assistant, see if it moves properly with the throttle pedal (ignition on). I wonder if the throttle body might need calibrating with VCDS too. I've heard about that from guides for cleaning the throttle body but not had to do it myself.

Any warning lights on the dash? Can you read fault codes? Did this start after the trip out in the rain where the o2 sensor wiring got ripped out? Maybe there's still a wiring fault (further up). Did you go through any deep water that might have got into the engine? (I've been watching those Rufford Ford videos on YouTube!) My first guesses are bad coil pack(s) or bad MAF. You can try unplugging the MAF to see if it makes any difference. Probably lots of other things it could be. Low compression?!

I doubt it. In some circumstances disabling it might actually be safer - if it glitches and slams on the brakes for no good reason then you might be more likely to get rear-ended. Personally I'm not a fan of such 'safety' features - I like to be in full control (or fairly close to). I think it's important for people to be aware of what they are doing in order to avoid crashing into things rather than relying on computers to make driving decisions for them.

Welcome from a fellow mk1 owner! Mine has 'only' done 220,000 miles, between both our cars they've been to the moon and back!

Have you got some photos? Any advisories relating to the rust on the last MOT? If it's just a small area of the front bumper then it might be worth a go at a DIY or smart repair, otherwise you could look out for a second hand bumper in the same colour to replace it with. If it's a larger area or you don't want/can't find a second hand bumper then you could get it re-sprayed. You could save money on that by DIYing the removal/refitting and doing some of the prep yourself. As for the sills - they shouldn't really rust unless they've been damaged by jacking the car in the wrong place. They can be repaired/replaced but it just depends how bad they are - probably best to find a local garage that does welding to advise. @stratosg that looks like a really good DIY repair and a nice detailed post too

I'm not sure that's correct. I thought if fitted they had to work, but if not fitted then as long as the beam pattern is OK then it's fine. The MOT testing manual is available online which will give the answer. I used to have a car (Integra Type R DC2) that had Xenon lights but no washers and no self-levelling - that's how it came from the factory and was never an issue at MOT time.

Depends who you ask and how paranoid you are about it snapping. Paranoid: 60k / 4 years (whichever comes first) Normal: 80k / 5 years (whichever comes first) I go with the latter. Consider getting the water pump and aux belt replaced at the same time too. The aux belt is only about £10-15 and easily DIYable though.