petrolbloke

Before you go investigating wiring faults, press the unlock on the fob twice. I think there is a VCDS setting where only the drivers door unlocks unless you do the double-unlock. If that doesn't work, start the engine and press the unlock button on the driver's door repeatedly while pulling on the other interior door handles - this might un-deadlock them and allow you to open them.

There was a similar thread a little while ago. Can you be a bit clearer about the state of the car (stationary & idle or moving) at each point in time? I would expect to see something like this... Start engine (from cold) - high fuel consumption Moving for 10 minutes at 40mph on a flat road - average fuel consumption decreases. Stationary and idle for 2 minutes - average fuel consumption increases. Moving for 10 minutes at 40mph on a flat road - average fuel consumption decreases It would be strange for the average fuel consumption to decrease while stationary and idle.

On my VRS the front passenger side inner pad has the wear sensor. It's built into the pads - when the pad wears down it makes/breaks a circuit (not sure which) and the light on the dash illuminates. There's no wear sensor on the discs. Sounds like you'll probably need front pads soon. Depending on how worn/pitted/scored/corroded the front discs are it might be worth changing them at the same time. Get the rear ones checked out too.

Pads look normal. Shouldn't really be any need to bed discs/pads in on most normal road cars. What make discs/pads were fitted? How bad is the judder? Is it at any speed (within reason!) or only certain speeds? My understanding is that brake judder is more likely to be caused by pad deposits or something like worn suspension bushes than warped discs.

Have a look on YouTube, there is probably a video on there that shows what you need.

Might be worth seeing how it runs with the MAF unplugged and checking the state of the plugs (and that they are the correct or suitable plugs).

I replaced mine with one from Western Power Steering and it's been fine so far. I think there are videos on YouTube for the fitting, but from memory roughly as follows: Jack up the front and put axle stands under the chassis at the front. Undo dogbone mount from gearbox. Remove front wheels and undo track rod ends from the hubs. Undo fluid lines from the rack and drain remaining fluid. Loosen bolts holding rack to subframe Undo bolt on the joint between rack & column inside the car (I found this a bit tricky to get off - had to get something in there to help lever it off) Undo subframe bolts. You'll probably need a good impact wrench and/or breaker bar to undo them. They're not supposed to be reused so consider ordering new ones. Lower subframe and replace the rack. Worth inspecting the front ARB bushes at the same time as it's easier to replace them while the subframe is lowered and they aren't expensive.

Try bleeding the master cylinder.

That's what I would expect. The engine uses fuel when idle and while stationary you're getting 0 miles/km to the litre/gallon/whatever unit of fuel. As soon as the car is moving you're getting more than 0 miles per gallon. The average fuel consumption (which is probably what you're seeing on the dash) increases when you're at idle/stationary.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312231384562 I haven't tried this one, but it says it's compatible. I believe someone posted an alternative (maybe cheaper/better) on another thread but you'll have to search. What are the symptoms that led you to the fuel pump?

According to https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a3_mk1/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_02j/technical_data/gearbox_identification/code_letters_allocation_transmission_ratios_capacities/ An 02J EHA box has a 3.647 final drive - a ratio of 62:17 (62 teeth and 17 teeth). The overall ratio in top gear (5th) is 3.056 which is calculated by the final drive (3.647) multiplied by the gear ratio of 5th (0.838). Pretty sure the diff is the 62 toothed part of that equation. You say the speedo is reading 20km/h lower than before, but at what GPS speed is that? Do you know the exact ratios in the box you removed and the box you fitted?

Are you sure? I thought the diff would normally have more teeth and therefore for one revolution of the diff there would be >1 revolution of the output shaft. I haven't seen the inside of one of these gearboxes though. Sounds like fixing it is not straightforward. Another approach might be to try and convert the signal to the ECU - maybe there is some off the shelf product out there that can do that.

Yeah I think most people either fit a used rack (<£50) or fit a refurbed rack (£100-200). I fitted a used rack the first time mine went. Lasted ~100k miles plus whatever it had done in the car it came out of. When that one failed I fitted a refurbed rack. Be interested to hear how you get on with the DIY repair to it!

Great, but does any of that assist the OP? There are pros/cons to both, I don't think you can really say one system is better than the other. Anyway, this is not the place to discuss it. MOT failure doesn't necessarily mean the vehicle is unroadworthy or dangerous to drive. UK is lax on legislation - I don't think so. There's always grey areas, that's what the justice system is there to sort out. non-enforcement - political matter, not getting into that! I don't find the info on Government websites confusing in this area. Get repaired there or trailer it away - Depends on the fault. If your tyres are down to the cords and your brakes are down to the metal backing plates, yes definitely get it fixed before driving it away. If your screen wash is empty, your rear fog light doesn't work and none of your rear seatbelts latch then it's not necessarily unsafe to drive it.

The braking system is sealed (when it has the cap on), so would not cause rust on the rear discs. Missing cap sounds dodgy - if you haven't removed it then it was either Halfords themselves or somewhere that had worked on it previously. Were you aware it was missing before it went in? How long has it been missing for? Have the brakes previously been bled as part of a service? As above, I would get a new cap then get the brakes bled, then take it for another MOT. (all somewhere other than Halfords!)

What about an uprated alloy radiator and/or better fans?

I think it's the other way around. If the stat is stuck open flow of coolant (and therefore cooling) is maximised, so it'll take longer for the engine to warm up and it may not get to normal operating temperature at all (depending on outside temperature and airflow over the radiator). When the stat is cold it limits the flow of coolant and it opens as it warms up.

Thermostat isn't a sensor... I replaced mine with a Gates one quite a few years and many miles ago and it's still fine. There are a lot of brands around and I'm not really sure what other brands do thermostats.

Wheel specs + list of other cars with the same bolt pattern: https://www.wheel-fitment.com/car/Skoda/Octavia (1997 - 2005).html Basically it's A3/S3/TT and their Seat and VW equivalents. There are also some Toyota Celicas and Subaru Imprezas that have a 5x100 bolt pattern. Not sure about offsets and centre bore sizes of those, but you can check for yourself. Use a tyre size comparison calculator to compare the standard size (205/50/R17) to other sizes. E.g. https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ 225/45/R17 is a common choice. These fit fine on the standard 7J rims. 245/40/R17 is also a similar diameter & circumference (1.6% smaller) - pretty sure you would need wider wheels for that size though. 225/40/R18 is also near identical diameter and circumference. If you go for wider wheels you might have clearance issues, especially with lock on the front. Wider wheels/tyres on the back won't help with the Octy's FWD understeery nature either. With wider tyres that also means potentially more grip, which won't help with excess wear on the outside edges. Smaller diameter tyres means you're altering the final drive ratio in a way that is better for acceleration at the expense of top speed. But too much smaller and they'll look well out of place. Aftermarket wheels generally should be lighter. VAG wheels are pretty heavy. Lighter wheels are beneficial - less unsprung mass and less rotational mass, but reduced weight could come with reduced strength. What width are your current wheels?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00928 https://duckduckgo.com/?q=F221+27-00+implausible+signal+central+locking The above links might help. I know you said the locking mechanism doesn't make any sound, but if it's not moving it may not make any sound or make less sound than others. Plus when they all lock/unlock (or try to) I think it would be difficult to hear if one particular lock was or wasn't trying to move. I often have trouble getting doors to unlock. What I have found works to unlock my front passenger door is starting the engine (more voltage that way), press the unlock button on the driver's door repeatedly while simultaneously pulling the interior door handle on the passenger door, also repeatedly.

Where's all the high mileage people gone?! 😜 Not doing anywhere near as many miles as I used to. Missed the 214k mark but happened to catch the palindrome as I stopped to fill up and reset the trip.

The cast arms have a bit of adjustment of the bottom ball joint I think but probably not as much as you'd ideally need. Are adjustable top mounts an option? What suspension and anti-roll bar are you running? Do you know what the current camber is? Could the wear also be due to the tyre pressures being too low? It's very common for road cars to wear tyres on the outside edges when used on track - combination of more grip from stickier tyres and the standard geometry not being optimised for track and offering limited/no adjustment. On my old Clio I ran AD08Rs, Eibach springs and about 2-2.5 degrees negative camber on the front and the tyres still wore more on the outside edge, but by the sounds of it not as much as yours are.

Audi Lava Grey Skoda Race Blue BMW Le Mans Blue They did some good colours on the Clio 172/182s - I think "Petrol Blue" would look good on a mk1 Octavia.

Not too sure on price. You'd still want a decent set of pads in the Brembo calipers. You could try DS3000s or DS1.1s (if they do them in this fitment). How long are your sessions? I used to do 15-20 minutes at a time including a steady out-lap and in-lap. Any longer than that and the brakes and tyres were going off as was my concentration!

The throttle body is on the other side on the BAM engine, so not a direct replacement. Unless you're modifying it (FMIC etc.) I'd stick with the AUQ one.